Corvette Pulley Install???
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From: NW Chicago Subs
Corvette Pulley Install??? I searched and searched. Did not come up with anything. Anyone know of a write-up? Or have some pointers? Does the rack have to come out completely? Any info would be great.
TIA
TIA
Originally Posted by BADSZ28
I searched and searched. Did not come up with anything. Anyone know of a write-up? Or have some pointers? Does the rack have to come out completely? Any info would be great.
TIA
TIA
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Texas
about half way down the page
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
yes the rack has to come out and in my opinion its the worst part of any cam/head swap
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
yes the rack has to come out and in my opinion its the worst part of any cam/head swap
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
about half way down the page
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
yes the rack has to come out and in my opinion its the worst part of any cam/head swap
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
yes the rack has to come out and in my opinion its the worst part of any cam/head swap
I absolutly hate that ****.
One of the worst parts of working on the cars. For you all that still have mono leaf springs, I feel for you. Those things DO make the job harder when lowering the cradle, and moving the rack outta the way.
I have done several cam swaps on vettes,...never have I completly removed the actual rack assembly. I just lower the cradle, to unsafe levels, take a pogo stick, under my rack, and raise it up,...and I lower the cradle more. Everything is supported for safety reasons but....it is a bitch.
If your going through the trouble of changing the pulley, you might as well change the camshaft why your at it if your still stock. Trust me,...it's time saved in the future.
Clutches, and cam swaps on Y-bodies blow.
Peace out
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UMMM.... rack does NOT have to come out... undo one tie rod on one side, unbolt the two big bolts and the PS cooler and then pop the rack up far enough to get the crank pulley off. it IS possible (ive done mine many a time now)
also.. unlike popular believe you CAN tighten the bolt with the rack in. undo the motor mounts, jack the engine up by the bellhousing being careful not to hit the intake manifold on the cowl. take out the two mounting bolts on the rack and push the wheels towards each other and pull the rack down... gives ya JUST enough clearance to tighten the bolt on the crank pully.
i have had ALOT of shitty experiences with my crank pully lol...
also.. unlike popular believe you CAN tighten the bolt with the rack in. undo the motor mounts, jack the engine up by the bellhousing being careful not to hit the intake manifold on the cowl. take out the two mounting bolts on the rack and push the wheels towards each other and pull the rack down... gives ya JUST enough clearance to tighten the bolt on the crank pully.
i have had ALOT of shitty experiences with my crank pully lol...
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From: NW Chicago Subs
OK. We have pretty much everything loose and the rack will not move enough to get to the pulley. I would prefer to get it mostly out of the way. I read the ls1howto right up and they remove a ton of stuff that seams unnecessary for the pulley since they are trying to get to the cam. There is one line going into the gearbox that we can not get loose for nothing. Is this the last thing to remove to get the rack out of the way? Where is the cooler? Is it that one line that loops in front of the rack? That is loose from the cross member but not the pump or the rack and I feel it is what is holding us up right now.
I've done this a thousand times every way imaginable on my C6 which is just about the same as the C5. I think I hear you saying that the rack is loose but won't slide out of the way because the lines to the pump are still on. I've taken those off but take note to how they are routed. Its a bitch to get them back if you forget. I think the easiest way is to drop the k member enough to get at it. Either way it aint no fun at all. If you have some specific questions let me know.
Use a flare nut wrench on that nut or you will round it over. I had the same problem with that nut, the one closest to the wheel well. You may want to try getting to it through the wheel well. I believe it will also help if you can have someone wiggle the line as you try and break it loose. If you have active handling the bracket will have to come out to move the rack.
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11 Second Club
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From: NW Chicago Subs
I pulled the bracket for active handling (I thought it was for ABS) and tried to loosen the nut and no go. I guess we need to get a line wrench on it and really rip on it.
