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Which stage diff. for 550 whp vette?

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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Default Which stage diff. for 550 whp vette?

Planning on throwing some nitrous on the vette soon along with some sticky tires and was wondering which one to get. I'm thinking a stage 2 but DTE is trying to tell me I need a stg 3 possibly 4 since I am going to use nitrous!
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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Stg III is the minimum. I would think the stg III will hold. I make 490 rwhp 445 rwtq N/A and nitrous is a lot more violent, maybe a stg IV. Your choice. Good luck bro.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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I broke my stage 2 with 480 rwhp. I now have a stage 4+, which is like a stage 5 except it was not a new unit.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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The real key to long rear life, imo, is having some tire spin. Been spraying mine for over 200 passes with a high of 550rwhp and 636rwtq and currently running ET Streets. Only prob I had was a dead hook on BFG DR and broke a long shaft. I just hit with enough torque to spin to 1.5x 60's.
Robert
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 05:25 AM
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for the money get the stage 5 you will be glad u did
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Do you mean differential or transmission? For the transmission go has high as you can go. The 4L60E is a POS, so it needs as much help as it can get. For the differential, get harden output shafts and you should be good.

Keith
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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You guys are nuts. I run mid 10's @ close to 140 MPH on a stock differential with a $250 hardened output shaft.

If you have a stick car I'd get a DTE differential strut brace and a hardened output shaft regardless of transmission type.

Spending $2,000 - $4,000 preemptively on a "hardened" differential is absolute insanity.
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 03:44 AM
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Agree with mdhmi. I would leave the stocker in unless it's showing signs of near death. Even built rears can die quick if you abuse them.

I only have about 10 passes at the strip on ET streets, but plenty of street miles on my COMPLETELY stock rear (not even an output shaft ). No problems so far and not even a sign of a problem.

Tire slip and avoidance of shock are probably what keeps it alive. My TTs go a little soft between shifts so there is very little shock to the drivetrain and I guess there's enough power that it slips enough to stay alive.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mdhmi
You guys are nuts. I run mid 10's @ close to 140 MPH on a stock differential with a $250 hardened output shaft.

If you have a stick car I'd get a DTE differential strut brace and a hardened output shaft regardless of transmission type.

Spending $2,000 - $4,000 preemptively on a "hardened" differential is absolute insanity.

My last motor saw 4-5k clutch dumps on the setup above and never had an issue.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeyGC5
My last motor saw 4-5k clutch dumps on the setup above and never had an issue.
Me too, except mine were 5k to 6k. I call it the clutch dump from hell. Also have the DTE strut brace. The Et Streets will help with the torque hit and wrinkle nicely which also helps.
Robert
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Me too, except mine were 5k to 6k. I call it the clutch dump from hell. Also have the DTE strut brace. The Et Streets will help with the torque hit and wrinkle nicely which also helps.
Robert

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