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Does lowering your vette affect your launch?

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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:12 AM
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Default Does lowering your vette affect your launch?

I was just wondering if any of you guys that are running fast at the track have your cars lowered much? My car is currently lowered about as far as it will go on the stock bolts and I would like it to be lower but at the same time I don't want it to affect the way my car launches at the track! Thanks for the input guys!
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:20 AM
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Don't want to go to low or you will probably run into rubbing issues with the back tires
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ViperJ
Don't want to go to low or you will probably run into rubbing issues with the back tires
Exactly, the first couple times I ran my car lowered I would scraped the brush guard in the front at the end of the quarter. I've raised up the car and then started launching harder. Ended up rubbing the inner area of the rear quarters NOT COOL! So I raised it up some more. The car still sits fairly low but is about 2-3inches higher then it was. You can see my car in the sig at about what height it is. However I'm going to raise the car up even further soon for next year to see if it helps put the weight on the rear on the launch. I've cut 1.50x a couple times with mine and alot of 1.5xs with it. 6speed car!
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Zturd
Exactly, the first couple times I ran my car lowered I would scraped the brush guard in the front at the end of the quarter. I've raised up the car and then started launching harder. Ended up rubbing the inner area of the rear quarters NOT COOL! So I raised it up some more. The car still sits fairly low but is about 2-3inches higher then it was. You can see my car in the sig at about what height it is. However I'm going to raise the car up even further soon for next year to see if it helps put the weight on the rear on the launch. I've cut 1.50x a couple times with mine and alot of 1.5xs with it. 6speed car!
Have you changed anything in the rear on your car? I almost have my car ready to go just have to get a regulator to put inline with the aftermarket fuel rails and a tune and she is ready. Was thinking of a DTE. Have you done anything special for 1.5s What do you drop the clutch at to achieve? I'm sitting on CCWs Drag pack with new M/Ts in the back.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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Check around in here,there are some guys really cutting great 60fts with minimul items. Me personally I do not "DUMP" the clutch. It actaully took me half the season to get my launch just right. I had to get the knowledge of people like RobZ and some others to work out just how to get repeatable good results with my car. I do have a DTE trans/diff brace, 4.10 rear with hardened output shaft driverside, RPM billet Diff cover with 2 support rods up to the transmission. I also run ET streets due to they sponge more for the lack of a better term and eliminate the chance of wheel hop. I come off the clutch at 5500rpm launch and let the clutch out quickly while smashing the gas at the same time. Its a slight clutch slip that works great. I give the car a little bit of cool down time for the clutch and letter have it again!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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That was a very good question! I don't frequent the strip hardly at all, but after the last time I was there, I did notice that there were signs of the rear tires (runflats at the time) having rubbed on the inner "wheel well" quite a bit.

Dummie me, never considered it was because I had lowered the Vette about an inch on the bolts.

Ok so now the question becomes.....I don't see raising the rear end to necessarily be a solution....mebbie to the rubbing problem it might, but doesn't raising the rear mess up the "weight-transfer" that's so important in getting a decent launch?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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I'm looking into getting some MT ET streets since I've heard so many good things about them. I've never lowered my suspension and I'm wondering if I should get 26, 27 or 28" tires. Will the 28" rub with stock height suspension? Anyone tried it?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Zturd
Check around in here,there are some guys really cutting great 60fts with minimul items. Me personally I do not "DUMP" the clutch. It actaully took me half the season to get my launch just right. I had to get the knowledge of people like RobZ and some others to work out just how to get repeatable good results with my car. I do have a DTE trans/diff brace, 4.10 rear with hardened output shaft driverside, RPM billet Diff cover with 2 support rods up to the transmission. I also run ET streets due to they sponge more for the lack of a better term and eliminate the chance of wheel hop. I come off the clutch at 5500rpm launch and let the clutch out quickly while smashing the gas at the same time. Its a slight clutch slip that works great. I give the car a little bit of cool down time for the clutch and letter have it again!!!
I've been reading both RobZ and your posts for a while. Which clutch do you both have? I'm planning on getting the Tex OZ700 shortly.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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02SCVette-I'm running a single disc Textralia clutch setup and appears to be one of the bests clutches I've ever ran. I do change my clutch fluid reservoir like a Banshee!! I'm talking like when I go to the track, when i get back from the track, if i've been running her hard on the street. Takes 5min's and if it helps my clutch last a couple more track passes I"m all for it. I can't sway what TEX RobZ runs I want to say the twin disc. I kinda wish I went to the slightly more aggressive disc set up for how often I track my car.
I would also recommend if you dont like ET streets try a pair of Hoosier Bias ply tires. Basically the Bias ply style tires relieve some of the stress/shock of the launch.

TUFF STUFF, you have to raise the car up to a level stance to be effective. You would be correct in saying raising just the rear may throw off the weight transfer.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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TUFF STUFF, you have to raise the car up to a level stance to be effective. You would be correct in saying raising just the rear may throw off the weight transfer.
Thanks....that made sense to me, I was just making sure. I left the height the same, and have since replaced the runflats with GS3D's, which are a little bit smaller width tire, but supposedly much better grip for a street tire.

Can't wait for spring to go back and see how the Vette runs now.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuff Shift
Thanks....that made sense to me, I was just making sure. I left the height the same, and have since replaced the runflats with GS3D's, which are a little bit smaller width tire, but supposedly much better grip for a street tire.

Can't wait for spring to go back and see how the Vette runs now.
Alot of good info in hear.

1) I haven't seen any signifcant difference with lowering my car on the stock bolts. I have stock Z06 shocks.

2) We are experimenting with clutches right now.
The tex twin shifts like butter and grabs hard. I believe this clutch is good for mid-high1.4x's and you don't have to launch too hard. You can also air up the tires quite a bit(16+ psi) in the et streets and have a real stable pass.

3) I think the single disk will actually slip better on the launch but might now be as crisp on the shifts. still good for 500+rwhp

I would go with 26 inch tires. They seem to work best until you start running 9's in a vete or run out of gear which shouldn't happen.
Let us know exactly what setup you go with and we'll get you started for the track.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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My car is slammed and I managed to consistantly cut 1.60x with my MT's but did notice a lot of rubbing within the inner wheel well.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WickedC5
My car is slammed and I managed to consistantly cut 1.60x with my MT's but did notice a lot of rubbing within the inner wheel well.
How much did you lower your car?
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Zturd
02SCVette-I'm running a single disc Textralia clutch setup and appears to be one of the bests clutches I've ever ran. I do change my clutch fluid reservoir like a Banshee!! I'm talking like when I go to the track, when i get back from the track, if i've been running her hard on the street. Takes 5min's and if it helps my clutch last a couple more track passes I"m all for it. I can't sway what TEX RobZ runs I want to say the twin disc. I kinda wish I went to the slightly more aggressive disc set up for how often I track my car.
I would also recommend if you dont like ET streets try a pair of Hoosier Bias ply tires. Basically the Bias ply style tires relieve some of the stress/shock of the launch.

TUFF STUFF, you have to raise the car up to a level stance to be effective. You would be correct in saying raising just the rear may throw off the weight transfer.
Thanks for the tips. I changed my clutch fluid right after my dyno in the spring when the stock clutch was slipping on the dyno. I'm planning on changing it often next season since I want to track it a few times.... well, unless I get kicked out right away. I'm going with the Z grip.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by robz*
Alot of good info in hear.

1) I haven't seen any signifcant difference with lowering my car on the stock bolts. I have stock Z06 shocks.

2) We are experimenting with clutches right now.
The tex twin shifts like butter and grabs hard. I believe this clutch is good for mid-high1.4x's and you don't have to launch too hard. You can also air up the tires quite a bit(16+ psi) in the et streets and have a real stable pass.

3) I think the single disk will actually slip better on the launch but might now be as crisp on the shifts. still good for 500+rwhp

I would go with 26 inch tires. They seem to work best until you start running 9's in a vete or run out of gear which shouldn't happen.
Let us know exactly what setup you go with and we'll get you started for the track.
So go w/ET streets @ 16-18 PSI, launch it high enough to get some light wheel spin and good tire wrinkle, and slip it quickly. Sound about right? Is around 5-5500 about right to get the wheel spin? I'm wondering if I would stand a worse chance of breaking the diff if I launched around 3000-4000. Also, the reason I was thinking of going with a taller tire was due to all the low end torque of the Maggie off the line.

In 06' I managed a 1.89 once on my Mich run flats but everything else was 2.0+.... Time for some real tires.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SCVette
So go w/ET streets @ 16-18 PSI, launch it high enough to get some light wheel spin and good tire wrinkle, and slip it quickly. Sound about right? Is around 5-5500 about right to get the wheel spin? I'm wondering if I would stand a worse chance of breaking the diff if I launched around 3000-4000. Also, the reason I was thinking of going with a taller tire was due to all the low end torque of the Maggie off the line.

In 06' I managed a 1.89 once on my Mich run flats but everything else was 2.0+.... Time for some real tires.
Please give your rwhp'rwtq numbers

I recommend 16-18 psi as a good starting point. Don't forget a good burnout.
On brand new et streets it they usually won't hook until the 3rd pass.(keep that in mind).
Try launchin at 4000-4500( let's see your rwtq)and slip the clutch quickly and be a little more agressive on the throttle.
No need for the taller tire. Stick with 26's please.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ViperJ
How much did you lower your car?
2" All around.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by robz*
Please give your rwhp'rwtq numbers

I recommend 16-18 psi as a good starting point. Don't forget a good burnout.
On brand new et streets it they usually won't hook until the 3rd pass.(keep that in mind).
Try launchin at 4000-4500( let's see your rwtq)and slip the clutch quickly and be a little more agressive on the throttle.
No need for the taller tire. Stick with 26's please.
I'm going forged this winter since I was getting too much blowby. Because of that Don tuned it back to help it last longer and I had 478whp and 416 wtq. It's over 400 from 2k on up. I expect to get more like 460+ wtq in the spring and around 500 whp with a SD tune but that's just a guess really. 26" it will be then. Thanks again for the tips.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SCVette
I'm going forged this winter since I was getting too much blowby. Because of that Don tuned it back to help it last longer and I had 478whp and 416 wtq. It's over 400 from 2k on up. I expect to get more like 460+ wtq in the spring and around 500 whp with a SD tune but that's just a guess really. 26" it will be then. Thanks again for the tips.
Cool bro. Goodluck. I would start with around 16psi and around 4000-4500.
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