grinder11

iTrader: (1)

I am hoping someone out there has tried to remove the motor from above on the C5. I know it is easier to remove from the underside, but I have no lift and fewer energetic buddies, so this is my ONLY option! I have an A4 car, so it would probably be best to have someone with the same drivetrain who has done this. BUT, I am open to ANY help from ANYONE!! I have to yank the motor because the cam AND cam bearings are shot (Lonnng story!). I have removed the radiator, heads, headers, pipes, oil pan, motor mounts, starter, etc.. I still need to remove the A/C compressor. I am trying to avoid removing any unnecessary parts and have the block unbolted from the "bell housing". I don't believe that I have enough clearance to remove the motor and "bell housing" where the housing bolts to the "torque tube", as I see a long splined shaft that probably mates to an internal spline in the flywheel. This would make dropping the rack mandatory in order to move the motor far enough forward to dis-engage from the splined shaft. Please help, guys!! My car has been off the road for a year and a half now, and I really miss it!! I am sure you can relate!!

MJD

iTrader: (1)

http://www.cajundude.com/engineswap.htm

BlownVette 2001

iTrader: (2)

On A4's you'll need to pull the inspection plug out of the bell housing and using a 10mm Hex key loosen the clamp that holds the torque tube in place.

Should slide out pretty easy after that.

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

My winter project is almost 3 years now, so I feel your pain. The motor can come out from the up as I have done it twice now. Both times I also droped the drive line first before pulling the motor. I takes about a extra hour to do so and is way worth it IMO. If you do not drop the drive line, you will need to remove the engine from the motor mounts, the motor mounts from the front craddle, and finally drop the front craddle down a bit. Also remove the headers as it will give you extra room to move the engine around when you pull it.

Keith