blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

Chris u need a adjustable torque arm.lower control arms,panhard bar & tires and u will be good.U have plenty of HP now u have too put it too the ground.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Nice, you're in basic Cam only V6 territory

Need tires man and in a bad way. It'd be nice if you had a full breakdown from your timeslip. It really is a nice tool to see what portion needs improvement.

The rest of the suspension can come along as you acquire it and it'll be nice to see how each part improves your short times.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

IMHO - you need a bias ply tire, they are easier to launch on with a M6 car. And generally a little easier on parts too. But, even on street tires your 10 bolt is like a grenade and you are pulling the pin every time you launch it. It's not "if", it's when.

I would invest in a spare set of wheels & tires before throwing a bunch of suspension parts at it. Hell, even a stronger rear end should be on the list before suspension parts. Devon - aka LoudmouthLS1 has his used 12 bolt FS for $1650 IIRC. That's a decent deal. I would be on the lookout for a deal like that before plopping down almost $3K for a new one. (I can see the sponsors cringing as they read that. lol)

This going fast crap is a viscious cycle. You keep changing parts and finding the weak links or other areas of the car that need attention to keep up with the new parts you just installed.

And JFWIW... my car with bolt ons and a 100 shot made 434RW. I ran 12.80's @ 118-119 on regular old street tires, spinning like crazy. My 60's were in the 2.25-2.40 range. A set of tires got the car down to mid 1.7 60's and ran 11.6 - 11.7 @ 118-119 MPH.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reply Joe and advice. I need to start saving now then hahahahah.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

theres no smooth way of modulating n20 so in that situation a big sticky is better than a good suspension setup. when you can softly load the rear of the car its very different than shocking it with a 100hp of juice. he can see 11s on a normal street tire and not break parts.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

just for comparison...my wife's 99 m6 ws6 with a whisper lid and weld in flowmaster muffler did almost the exact same time and trap. full weight (more actually given all of her **** in the car). her 4th pass down the track. car was as stock elsewhere as possible with exception to lowering springs.

my suggestion: you need to find the 150hp you're missing and put slicks on that car and run the dogshit out of it.

edit: with a good hook (1.94 60') the car's trap dropped to a consistent 108-109.

Egg1456

iTrader: (2)

get some zr1 wheels or atleast 2 ws6 wheels with some radials. you wont break the rear if you dont launch it, just start out like your at a stoplight.

Jersey Mike

iTrader: (9)

Quick question, what stall & gears are in the car?

danieloneil01

Read post 4. Unless he meant Manuel as in guy doing the shifting.



And get something other than street tires and try again. It will be night and day. 2.3-2.4 even with street tires is laughable.

BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

Agreed, dont bother with street tires. I have the same problem, still on the 10 bolt.

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

Like i told u dont worry about paying a shop the labor.U can help me do it so its alot cheaper for u and u can learn how to do things to your car yourself.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

I am running stock 3.42's gears with stock weight. Leaving off the line I gradually left off the clutch and had tire pressure between 25-30 psi. I know I can improve my times I am not worried about that I just need to decide If I wanna spend $$$ first on a rearend or tires first. Cause when I do something I wanna go all out. If I get Drag radials I will improve, but this is a dd car. I would like to get a strange 12 bolt with 3.73 gears.

I already spoke to my engine builder and he said that yes I already have an 11 sec car, just need to get that power to the ground. I would say 2.3-2.4 60 foot times @ 111 would equate to 1.7-1.8 60 foot @ 11.7 @117-118 mph

FASTEDDIE Z

iTrader: (4)

That would be great news ! I dont know though , I think if you have a bad 60 ft because of spinning ( not bogging) , youre speed is usually higher than if you had traction . Youre into higher gears ,earlier , creating more speed . If you knock off a 1.7 or 1.8 60 ft , you will knock off a full second,,, easily . I would think a 12.1 - 12.3 . Im could be wrong . Either way you have a real nice ride . Keep practicing , youll get it there !

CorySS

iTrader: (3)

drag radials won't hurt your 10 bolt or using them on your DD. i have them on my DD S10 and no problems. if you try to run slicks, thats when i would start worring about your rear end. having an M6 is going to be hard on your 10 bolt anyways. with the power that your making don't half *** it with "a good street tire" get a set of M/T drag radials for it and drop your tire pressure from between 25-30 psi to 15psi or so for at the track and you will see a BIG diff. in your times.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

No big sticky tire involved, I went from a 245/50-16 goodyear street radial to a MT 255/50-16 drag radial. I still stand by my suggestion of a bias ply tire to make things work and the soft sidewall to take some of the shock out of the driveline.