Average H/C/I LS1 ?
05-05-2011, 09:24 PM
#42
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Oh well . 
05-05-2011, 09:57 PM
#44
Lemons,
I would like to know how if I am 50 lbs. heavier then you how I could set in your car and it only weigh 3,500 lbs. when ours weighs 3,665 lbs. with me in it. That just does not seem right! I thought the autos were heavier off setting the subframe connectors!
If you best 1/8 mile time so far is what you have listed in your sig. with the changes you have made my best guess is you would be 7.15 to 7.18 in the 1/8 and in the low 11.30's at somewhere around 117 MPH's in the 1/4! As you stated you need low 7.0's to be knocking on the door of 10's and knocking off almost 3 tenths in the 1/8 is big, but it can be done! Good luck on your next outing!!
What was you 60 foot time on the 7.31? What is your best 60 foot time?
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05-05-2011, 10:25 PM
#45
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What is the actual full weight is on different cars? Like what should a Camaro or Camaro SS or Formula be full weight. I see posts about full weight 3400-3500lbs (or less) and I'm thinking how much I'd pick up if i wasnt 300-400lbs heavier.
I know my Trans Am's come in at right around 3800lbs with me in them (180lbs) no spare/jack but otherwise everything the factory built them with, and my '98 averages 20-30lbs heavier than my '02 with the exact same setup. I weighed my '98 when it was stock and it was about 3725, the subframe connectors, 12 bolt, and drag bar added in some extra.
I know my Trans Am's come in at right around 3800lbs with me in them (180lbs) no spare/jack but otherwise everything the factory built them with, and my '98 averages 20-30lbs heavier than my '02 with the exact same setup. I weighed my '98 when it was stock and it was about 3725, the subframe connectors, 12 bolt, and drag bar added in some extra.
05-05-2011, 10:49 PM
#46
Lemons,
I would like to know how if I am 50 lbs. heavier then you how I could set in your car and it only weigh 3,500 lbs. when ours weighs 3,665 lbs. with me in it. That just does not seem right! I thought the autos were heavier off setting the subframe connectors!
If you best 1/8 mile time so far is what you have listed in your sig. with the changes you have made my best guess is you would be 7.15 to 7.18 in the 1/8 and in the low 11.30's at somewhere around 117 MPH's in the 1/4! As you stated you need low 7.0's to be knocking on the door of 10's and knocking off almost 3 tenths in the 1/8 is big, but it can be done! Good luck on your next outing!!
What was you 60 foot time on the 7.31? What is your best 60 foot time?
N2
I would like to know how if I am 50 lbs. heavier then you how I could set in your car and it only weigh 3,500 lbs. when ours weighs 3,665 lbs. with me in it. That just does not seem right! I thought the autos were heavier off setting the subframe connectors!
If you best 1/8 mile time so far is what you have listed in your sig. with the changes you have made my best guess is you would be 7.15 to 7.18 in the 1/8 and in the low 11.30's at somewhere around 117 MPH's in the 1/4! As you stated you need low 7.0's to be knocking on the door of 10's and knocking off almost 3 tenths in the 1/8 is big, but it can be done! Good luck on your next outing!!
What was you 60 foot time on the 7.31? What is your best 60 foot time?
N2
I have weighed it several times and it has never hit 3500, 1/8-1/4 tank gas.
Best so far is a 1.50 it was a 1.52 on the 7.31.. I had a bit of a traction Issue that night. Would have been 1.48 if not. I'm hoping with those changes, hooking, and 800 or so lower da that it can get me at least 7.1, I would love a 7.0 though. Just hooking the way it sat before should have got me a 7.2xx. For some reason it always runs a little quicker than what I plan on. We will see, my fingers are crossed!!
05-06-2011, 02:38 AM
#47
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hmm looks like my budget setup isn't doing to bad. I don't have the slip in front of me but I think I ran 7.4 in the 1/8th at 94.7. I'm on the stock driveshaft and don't feel like breaking it again So I was leaving soft. The day I ran the da was around +1100 with a 15 mph headwind. I still trapped 121.6 that run. With the new ds I'll get the 60ft I want and hopefully go about .2 faster. Then I'll do a few more small things and take this mild budget setup to bottom 11s.
05-06-2011, 11:35 AM
#48
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Take a stock weight car and add:
-tubular mild steel tq arm, LCA's, panhard, subframes, trans xmember
-9" rear w/nod iron center
-3" steel drive shaft
-mild steel 6pt roll bar
-iron 6.0 block
-nitrous bottles & plumbing
-standalone nitrous fuel system
Makes for a heavy car unless you want to cut it up. That list above puts my car at 3660 with slicks/skinnies, and the only weight reduction I've done is the windshield washer tank, spare/jack, hood & wheels. Add my 230 lbs in the driver's seat and race weight jumps to 3890.
-tubular mild steel tq arm, LCA's, panhard, subframes, trans xmember
-9" rear w/nod iron center
-3" steel drive shaft
-mild steel 6pt roll bar
-iron 6.0 block
-nitrous bottles & plumbing
-standalone nitrous fuel system
Makes for a heavy car unless you want to cut it up. That list above puts my car at 3660 with slicks/skinnies, and the only weight reduction I've done is the windshield washer tank, spare/jack, hood & wheels. Add my 230 lbs in the driver's seat and race weight jumps to 3890.
My car has not had the back seat in it in 5+ years, and has had a BMR K-Member and light weight carpet for about the same time, that to me is full weight. That's how the car is...
What does it have to be full of?
Back to OP. A good H/ setup should get you into the 10's w/o a problem. Now, if you can't drive and have a stick, thats not the H/C fault, its yours. If you loaded up your car with subs, 20" wheels, concrete block, a fish tank, no one made your car heavier but you, dont consider that the performance of the H/C setup, you just fucked it up. If you have a 10bolt and can't launch at anything over 2000rpm, once again, its not the H/C its you rear. If your clutch spins like a top when you dump it, not the engine once again. If you race on top of Mt Everest, guess what... yup, you guessed it, its not the H/C its your locations.
There is no reason a good H/C setup can not run 10's at over 125+ mph. There are excuses, but not reasons.
Well, the only reason may be that your "good" H/C setup is really a piece of ****.
05-06-2011, 01:57 PM
#50
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Then when do we consider full weight? If I put concrete blocks in the back seat is it full weight? This is ridiculous. One person's full weight is another's dump truck weight and vice versa. I don't have a nitrous bottle, so then its not full weight if full weight to you is a whole nitrous system...
My car has not had the back seat in it in 5+ years, and has had a BMR K-Member and light weight carpet for about the same time, that to me is full weight. That's how the car is...
What does it have to be full of?
Back to OP. A good H/ setup should get you into the 10's w/o a problem. Now, if you can't drive and have a stick, thats not the H/C fault, its yours. If you loaded up your car with subs, 20" wheels, concrete block, a fish tank, no one made your car heavier but you, dont consider that the performance of the H/C setup, you just fucked it up. If you have a 10bolt and can't launch at anything over 2000rpm, once again, its not the H/C its you rear. If your clutch spins like a top when you dump it, not the engine once again. If you race on top of Mt Everest, guess what... yup, you guessed it, its not the H/C its your locations.
There is no reason a good H/C setup can not run 10's at over 125+ mph. There are excuses, but not reasons.
Well, the only reason may be that your "good" H/C setup is really a piece of ****.
My car has not had the back seat in it in 5+ years, and has had a BMR K-Member and light weight carpet for about the same time, that to me is full weight. That's how the car is...
What does it have to be full of?
Back to OP. A good H/ setup should get you into the 10's w/o a problem. Now, if you can't drive and have a stick, thats not the H/C fault, its yours. If you loaded up your car with subs, 20" wheels, concrete block, a fish tank, no one made your car heavier but you, dont consider that the performance of the H/C setup, you just fucked it up. If you have a 10bolt and can't launch at anything over 2000rpm, once again, its not the H/C its you rear. If your clutch spins like a top when you dump it, not the engine once again. If you race on top of Mt Everest, guess what... yup, you guessed it, its not the H/C its your locations.
There is no reason a good H/C setup can not run 10's at over 125+ mph. There are excuses, but not reasons.
Well, the only reason may be that your "good" H/C setup is really a piece of ****.
05-06-2011, 04:09 PM
#51
Then when do we consider full weight? If I put concrete blocks in the back seat is it full weight? This is ridiculous. One person's full weight is another's dump truck weight and vice versa. I don't have a nitrous bottle, so then its not full weight if full weight to you is a whole nitrous system...
My car has not had the back seat in it in 5+ years, and has had a BMR K-Member and light weight carpet for about the same time, that to me is full weight. That's how the car is...
What does it have to be full of?
My car has not had the back seat in it in 5+ years, and has had a BMR K-Member and light weight carpet for about the same time, that to me is full weight. That's how the car is...
What does it have to be full of?
05-09-2011, 11:42 AM
#52
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iTrader: (34)
When I hear full weight, I think well, a stock 4th gen might weigh 3450, add in me as 200 lbs, and I get to 3650. So I generally expect full weight to mean cars that race at 3600+.
05-09-2011, 06:10 PM
#54
^ +2.. Stock weight/wheels with the exception of your normal bolt ons and drag radials. I'm referring to f-bodies. Like Jmm98LS1 stated, some even have to add weight due to track rules and/or stronger parts. IMO, full or stock weight isn't removing back seats or other parts, cutting the car up, light weight parts, etc, etc. 300+ lbs from stock is ALOT of weight removed. If you have a gutted out tin can, your h/c/i car better go 10s n/a!
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05-10-2011, 10:09 AM
#58
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@lemons12,
If someone runs at 3600 or heavier, then that's stock enough for me.
My 2000 Camaro (the white one) was 3300 and 10.9@123 and even quicker with the new owner (10.7), so @ 3600 11.0 - 11.2 which is plenty stout.
If someone runs at 3600 or heavier, then that's stock enough for me.
My 2000 Camaro (the white one) was 3300 and 10.9@123 and even quicker with the new owner (10.7), so @ 3600 11.0 - 11.2 which is plenty stout.
05-10-2011, 11:03 AM
#59
I run with pro stars on/1/4 tank or less gas and weight 175-180.. my race weight is a hair under 3500.
so I don't know lol.. I don't think you can get much more full weight on modded cars.
05-10-2011, 11:24 AM
#60
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One time a couple of us that weighted our cars at a local track. There was one guy with a 2001 or 2002 Trans am WS6 with bolt ons (headers, so a little lighter than stock) and a 1/2 a tank of gas and he was right around 3,500. I think less but I'm not positive. My formula also with bolt ons (not a ws6) was around 3,415-3,420. There was a SS z28 that was around 3,475. These are all with stock rims. They also all had 6 speeds. Theses weights seem to be reasonable to me. My car had maybe a quarter of a tank of gas as did the z28.