moge11

He said DRY hop. Dry Hopping is what you described. it dont make it hook better.. its what you said....to see how well the track is gonna hold.. And for reference, I leave at 3900-4100 rpm and slip the hell outta the clutch as if i were launching a motorcycle. NO shocking of the drivetrain! whoever said that above is clueless. thats the last thing you want to do! Im hard on the clutch, but i do alright. SLIP AND SLIDE!!!

GtoSpd

iTrader: (2)

Well, I apologize for the confusion, thats definitely not how I meant to describe it. I'm simply saying bump the gas after the burnout. Its right there in the vid. Last thing I was trying to say was dumping the clutch, lol

moge11

i know you werent sayin to dump the clutch. someone else was... and I know what you meant by blipping the throttle. its called dry hoppin by old drag racers. its just a DRY HOP after the burnout. to make sure its gonna hook.....just as you explained

GtoSpd

iTrader: (2)

I see where the miscommunication is. I interpreted "dry hop" as wheel hop. Never heard it called that. Anyway, it will let you know real quick if you're tires are still wet, going to hook, or if the track is slick. If my car grabs on that jab, then it gives me a good reference point regarding how hard to attempt to launch. It helps me, maybe its not for everyone, I was simply making a suggestion that has been used for quite some time now.

sweetC5

At 1800 rpms and spinning sounds like your dumping it at 1800 ( no good ) Like stated you need to be around 3k and slip it out a bit and get the car rolling then fully release the clutch. Stick cars need RPMs out of the hole but without dumping the clutch. Practice on the street for a bit!

ZDER

iTrader: (3)

Thanks alot for all the answers and support guys i really appreciate your time!!! I guess i gotta slip the clutch more and try and get it to settle im going to grab some lcas and reloc brackets also just spin off the tires to get them warm. Im also gna take out the front sway bar for some better weight transfer. Only thing i know last time at the track there was no glue down and i would ride the clutch a bit nail it and spin like nothing im gna try for a better 60ft forsure this weekend!

silverls1z28ofdeath

I have a stock ten bolt with drag radials and have never had a issue with wheel hop and that is slipping the clutch and doing 5000 dumps but that's just me

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

If you have never had ANY problem with wheel hop or tire shake on a drag radial then you either haven't raced much or you are making any power. You have LCA which he doesn't. That is why it was recommended that he get LCA and relocation brackets was to try and prevent wheel hop. That Vindicator cam you have needs to be launched above 5000 on a stock cube motor because it is a dog down low.

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

silverls1z28ofdeath
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The rear gears are most likely not the answer because with that cam it pull through that gear faster anyways. Does it feel like its stock or does it still have more umph than that at least.
__________________
Vengeance vindicator cam, pacesetter long tubes, ory, adj. lca's and panhard bar, 275 drag radials, Texas drivetrain stage III clutch


This is from another thread about a guy with a MS3 cam and car feels slow. He has 3.42 gears and that cam needs at least 4.10. You telling him gears aren't the answer. lol. Dude how long have you been racing or even fooling with building cars? Some of us have been at this stuff awhile. Like 20+ years and some longer.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i've had the best luck slipping the clutch into a dump out off the line. obviously not everyone does. i've managed a best of 1.80 60' on stock everything minus a lid and muffler, so apparently i was doing something right.

i also don't think this dryhop method is worth a damn. there is a **** ton of rubber behind the beams, it is no indication of what the track will hold. even with my weakass car many times it has cut a 1.8 60' and then after hooking first it would start spinning about halfway through second. granted, this is on a track nicknamed "ice r p". i hate trying to launch stick cars. i feel like it's on match sticks anyway so if the stars align and it does hook i'll most likely be walking home.

and no i refuse to invest 1/2 the value of the car into a race ready rearend setup. what ppl don't tell you is that you also need a driveshaft, clutch, and scattershield...at the very least.

JLoosh

iTrader: (1)

Reading all of this about wheel hop reminds me of my first time to the track yesterday with my car...but it was my car doing he hopping.

There was a bran new (or it looked like he just got it) zr1 vette. He went around the water box, no burn out, some narly wide back tires. When he launched I swear he had tire hop for about 600ft...let off, and then you heard that engine roar.

Sucker still ran like 13.4

2000whitevert

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=GtoSpd;16188369]Don't even leave at 1800 RPM, man..thats too much. Go around the water box, pull up past it, back up a little, do a good burnout, enough to smoke the tires (street tires or not, smoke them), as soon as the smoke up, let up and roll up. At this point give the throttle a good jab to make sure the track is hooking and your tires are dry. Once you roll up to the tree and get staged, DON'T put your foot on the throttle, just hold the brake. Once the light goes green, TAKE YOUR TIME (RT doesn't mean shat) and ease into the throttle. I go 1/4 throttle until I feel the *** squat and grab, then roll WOT quick. 1.8s are not a problem at the track I run at on street tires. Every track is different however, so compensate accordingly.

Here's a vid of mine.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urC_0...6&feature=plcp[/QUOTE
I also just purchased my first ls1 camaro a4 it has a small cam 3600 stall pacesetter 1 3/4 headers bbk ssi intake 30# injectors bbk fuel rails underdrive pulley. Now it also supposed to have ported tb n ported 853 heads with some tranny work done. What should i roughly expect to see in the 1/4 on a 295 drag radial and full adj rear suspension/shocks?

GtoSpd

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=2000whitevert;16229232]As long as its tuned right and you run in good DA (0-1500'), I don't see why it shouldn't run low 12s or high 11s.

2000whitevert

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=GtoSpd;16230523]Thats exactly what i was thinkin every1 i talked to tryed sayin mid 12s at best but judging by the 100s of cars runnin 12.30-12.40 bolt on wise i have more n also some weight reduction id say about 150#s. I know tune is the main piece to the hp puzzle so hopefully it has a good tune i have yet to see..

ZDER

iTrader: (3)

WOOOOOOO.... Went to the track again today and did a few things differently. First i did some free mods(ram air, tb bypass) and did a diff fluid swap. I launched at around 3500 rpm and rode the clutch out on a few runs and managed a best 60ft of 1.8 on 20s!!! Only problem i missed 2nd on that pass but still ran a 12.7 at 110... Fail! Went back and did a 1.9 60ft and managed a 12.3 at 113 wicked i know the car still has more in it. I have lcas, reloc brackets a FTRA and a cut out. Hopefully do a little better next time.

Only issue i had was i felt the clutch starting to stick to the floor. I know its known for it and the fluid should be flushed now its black, but im having troubble with the bleeder. I will be taking out the tranny and building it all this winter for now i will be just watching the fluid.

moge11

NICE!! GOOD JOB!!