bstuby

iTrader: (36)

Just bought some m/t et streets. Going to put them on this Friday, and see what happens. Next step is to put the 4.10 rear in it.

moge11

you should be makin 60-100rwhp more than me......i went 8.37@85.26mph on the EXACT same track with a 1422' DA..... have Doug tune your damn car dude... im gonna have him tune mine and walk around you with an otherwise stock car, other than the SLP lid....

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

You may or may not... who knows. I don't see the point in throwing down the money on a tune when I have a different gear I'm putting in, and plan on doing heads over the winter. Sorry for not wanting to waste $200-300 on a tune, and just have to do it again next year.

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

And maybe... just maybe I should work on my traction issues before I worry about the tune. If I'm not getting any traction right now with a "bad tune" as you say, then I would hate to see how bad I blow the tires off with a different tune.

moge11

its only $35 dollars for a retune...so i wouldnt say youre wasting any money... what rpm is your car shifting at???

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

He told me 150 just to load his software on it, and then 50 to tune it since it already has a tune. Basically kept bouncing back and forth from 150 to 200.

Shifting at 6200..... limiter at 6500

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i'd be much more concerned with the lack of power than the poor traction.

traction is easy to come by with these cars, esp with mild setups (such as yours). mt m/t et street DR bolt on car went 7.6s @ 88 with a 3650lb raceweight and DA of 2200'.

i had completely stock susp except LCAs, SFCs, and removed front sway bar. car would 1.60-1.65 60' at the track like clockwork, prepped or not. it wasn't difficult at all to make it do that.

moge11

exactly!!!!! ........brad, he will WFO tune it at track for 200...street/driveability tune for another 100....and 35 for a retune...... youre not spinnin anymore than i was.... hell being an auto, you got .01 better 60' than me on a fun night.... have him tune it, get the power right.... you have suspension mods.... tires and track prep will decide your traction..if you want real traction, get some real tires and go on race day... your car has it in it. im not hatin on your car by any means. i just wanna see it FLY!! i should be NOWHERE near your times. yet im just as quick as you...just have lauter tune that thing and let the beast come out! good luck bud... hope you get the ole girl down the track quickly soon...oooohhhh, and for the record, MY car would love to be shifted at 6200 and its STOCK... shift that thing at 6600+....probably more like 6800. what are your cam specs???

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

I know man, I appreciate all the advice so far . I have some m/t's I will try out tonight, and go from there. I will talk to Doug tonight if he is out there, and get something set up within the next couple weeks/month.

Hopefully I can get her straightened out soon.

Cam specs,

234/236
601/603
112+4

Stock 806 heads

DBN

iTrader: (6)

The drag radials should help you exceed your expectations. When I was running a set up similar to yours, I picked up a full second in the 1/8 by going to drag radials. More gear with the 555s is only going to be more of a problem getting the car off the line. Once you get the car to hook with the new tires then you can take advantage of your camshaft with more gear. Good luck.

98TADRIVER

iTrader: (36)

+1 on that!

and get yourself some hoosier Drag radials so you can actually hook! Nittos do not compare to them lol
and theyre 6-7lbs lighter/ tire compared to the mickey T street radials

i cut a 1.46 60' in june with my hoosier DR's in my C5 with 4000-4200 stall converter and 3.42 gears.

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

Getting the m/t's mounted today, headed to the track tonight to take advantage of the cooler weather. I will post what happens tonight.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

So what happened? Any idea why it's WAY down on power? FWIW, my stock cam car goes 7.30's to the 8th at 92ish. Something's wrong. Have you done basic stuff like fuel filter?

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

This guy gets it!!



A higher stall converter is guaranteed to get it down the track better than a gear swap!! Put the motor at or slightly after peak TQ and look out



Change the stall first! Gonna give you my example.

Same 11-1 347 ci motor in my truck for all below examples. Had ported heads with Trex cam (243/250):


3,600 rpm verter + 3.73's + 26" drag radial = Dead hooking a best of 1.89 60'

4,500 rpm verter + 3.73's + 30" drag radial = Dead hooking a best of 1.67 60'

So the converter change gained me .22 all while I went to a much taller tire. The tall tire acted like I went from a 3.73 to a 3.23 (if I kept the same 26" tire)


Same combo above, except I took about 100lbs out of the truck and went from a 3.73 to a 4.56 with the same 30" drag radial. Truck went from a 1.67 60' to a 1.60 60'.. .07 reduction in the 60'. Now, how much of that was the gear and how much of it was the weight?


This last weekend I was playing with a completely new combo. But, my best pass fri night I cut a 1.608 60'.. I then took my tailgate off which weighs 125lbs (I added a bunch of weight to it). With no other changes, didn't relevel the truck, I cut a 1.576 60'. so he 125lb drop gave me a .032 reduction in my 60'


This is not perfect math, but let's recap:
Larger stall + Taller tire = .22 reduction in 60'
Steeper gear and 100 less pounds = .07 reduction in 60'
Last weekends testing showed 125lbs less in the truck sped up my 60' by .032

I would care to guess that the 100lbs that came off when I went to a 4.56 helped the 60' by .025. That means going from a 3.73 to a 4.56 only helped my 60' by .045..



You have the tires now. I would try them. If you want more, replace the stall first. If not happy, then change the gear.

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

Best 60' I could get out of it was a 1.89 dead hooking.... worst run was a 1.91. I had a couple people tell me that were watching me, that it sounded like I was bogging coming out of the hole? It seems like I don't start getting into the power until I'm almost halfway down the track.

I agree, I think my stall is holding my 60' back quite a bit, but it still doesn't explain why it's so slow. Time or speed didn't change one bit... still at 8.4 @85. Talked to a tuner out there the other night, and I'm going to have him retune it within the next month or so.

I've been on the phone a lot with PTC about building me a custom converter somewhere in the 4000+ range. I'm going to change the stall first here within the next week or two, then have it retuned the middle or end of next month.

That's where I'm at so far with the car. I will keep it updated, and hopefully be haulin *** down the track by the end of the year.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

I think you are also working the tune and converter backwards. The converter company will get you a converter more suited to your combo if they know where you make peak tq. Get it tuned, then buy your converter.

bstuby

iTrader: (36)

But I won't know my peak torque unless I put it on a dyno, correct?

Also, if my o2 sensors are on there way out, would that slow me down at all? It just threw a code for both o2 sensors.

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

I went back and looked through some of my old runs stock internal and thought I would post some 60's up to try and give you an example of what a converter change can do similar to what LIL SS posted.

1.93 60 (stock stall, 3.23 gear, 275 Nitto DR, & stock weight 3500+lbs)
8.16@89.1mph
1.72-1.77 60's (only change was TCI 3500 stall)
7.94@86.7mph
1.68 60's (changed to 315 Nitto DR's)
7.80@88.5mph
1.61 60's (changed to TCI 3800 stall & ET Streets)
7.55@90.2mph
1.49-1.52 60's (changed to 3.73 gear and weight reduction to 3450lbs race weight)
7.3@92.9mph

StraightTimeStirrups

Can you include the 1/8 Mile Time and MPH to this list?

Joe

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Wow that took some searching, but hopefully this is what you were looking for. Edited post above. Also remember weather conditions had an effect on those times.