Bolt-on LT1 Almost broke 12s

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Old 08-31-2013, 12:05 AM
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Default Bolt-on LT1 Almost broke 12s

I think if I get my 2->3 shift fixed I should be in the 12s. Untouched motor with a 3600 stall, built trans, normal bolt ons, and some et street radials on stock salad shooters. Anything I should do to get my time down?



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Old 08-31-2013, 10:36 AM
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This is a buddy of mine in a stock-ish LT4 Corvette, on and off the bottle.



I know he's an LT4 VS your LT1, and the vette has a weight advantage, but he is a 6 speed so that should negate some of the advantage he has.

You didn't say what bolt on's you had, but if you've done some work to it, based on my friends experience with LT based motors, I think there's a bunch being left on the table somewhere.

Have you dyno'd it? On a dynojet 224, the car in the video made 355 RWHP NA and 498 RWHP on the 150 shot. If you are making close to the same power, I would think you should be able to at least come within .5 of him, given your weight dis-advantage.
Old 09-01-2013, 06:47 AM
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The LT4 Vette runs very strong for what it is.. though the OP is down an easy 50 - 60 rwhp and weighs around 300# more if full weight. I don't think they are good comparisons. The LT motor definitely has potential though. Low 12's would not be surprising in a full suspension/bolt on Fbody. I ran 12.9 on street tires in August heat when I was bolt ons + weight reduction. The valves were floating before the shift to - found a broken spring 100 miles later when tearing down for the build.

What's wrong with the 2-3 shift? If it is slipping or hitting the limiter it is costing you ET. I'd address that first. What are you looking to do with your car? There is a lot you can do to go faster, it just depends on how much money you want to spend and what sacrifices you will make.
Old 09-01-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by neat
I know he's an LT4 VS your LT1, and the vette has a weight advantage, but he is a 6 speed so that should negate some of the advantage he has.

You didn't say what bolt on's you had, but if you've done some work to it, based on my friends experience with LT based motors, I think there's a bunch being left on the table somewhere.

Have you dyno'd it? On a dynojet 224, the car in the video made 355 RWHP NA and 498 RWHP on the 150 shot. If you are making close to the same power, I would think you should be able to at least come within .5 of him, given your weight dis-advantage.
I have full supsension, 3600 stall + built trans, long tubes+ORY, 160 t-stat, cutout and an ls1 slp lid conversion. I dyno'd the car and it made 275 horse and just shy of 300 tq. I haven't opened the motor at all.

I have done slight weight reduction (removing back seats, lighter carpet, and sparco r100 front seats) but thats about it. If I recall the ltx computer shifts automatics based on mph and not rpm, which would explain why it would hit the limiter going into 3rd on the new stall (stock stall is 1300, which would give me more mph before the limiter in second)

Originally Posted by PA94Z
What's wrong with the 2-3 shift? If it is slipping or hitting the limiter it is costing you ET. I'd address that first. What are you looking to do with your car? There is a lot you can do to go faster, it just depends on how much money you want to spend and what sacrifices you will make.
See reply to neats post. I definitely think hitting the limiter hurt the e/t since I ran consistent 13.1 all night with it hitting the limiter. I think I'm pretty much done bolt-ons besides an electric water pump (im not sure how much this would help). Maybe its time to get a long block build going
Old 09-04-2013, 08:43 AM
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Very close numbers to mine, some similar mods. My car is a little better through the middle of the track for whatever reason.

Old 09-08-2013, 05:15 PM
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Here's Tony's bolt-on LT1 car:



Get some weight out, and get some seat time. Figure out where your car likes to be launched at.



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