Went to the track, disappointed
06-08-2014, 08:53 AM
#21
A girdle and brace for a 10 bolt is a joke. The ring and pinion are just to small to handle any load at all. Call up MWC and ask them about there fab 9 inch and the s60. You will see they have great deals. The fab 9 inch is more but your getting alot more and customer service. I am a 6 speed and cut 1.4x 60ft. I can give you tips and tricks at getting a m6 but they all entail about hitting the tires hard! Something your rear can't take. So rear end and tires and you be in the 12s with some practice.
06-08-2014, 09:01 AM
#22
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my exhaust only 02 trans am ran 12.45 @ 110 and a 1.7 60' on some shitty cheap street tires. You just need more seat time buddy, it's very possible. My first run ever with those mods in said car i ran 13.2 with a 2.4 60'. It'll Probably take you 3 track visits to find your cars soft spot in launching, and slipping the clutch is the only way you're going to get the car to hook with street tires
06-08-2014, 09:16 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
A girdle and brace for a 10 bolt is a joke. The ring and pinion are just to small to handle any load at all. Call up MWC and ask them about there fab 9 inch and the s60. You will see they have great deals. The fab 9 inch is more but your getting alot more and customer service. I am a 6 speed and cut 1.4x 60ft. I can give you tips and tricks at getting a m6 but they all entail about hitting the tires hard! Something your rear can't take. So rear end and tires and you be in the 12s with some practice.
I'm still interested in the 9"/Dana 60, but not sure I can justify the cost vs. a built stocker.
my exhaust only 02 trans am ran 12.45 @ 110 and a 1.7 60' on some shitty cheap street tires. You just need more seat time buddy, it's very possible. My first run ever with those mods in said car i ran 13.2 with a 2.4 60'. It'll Probably take you 3 track visits to find your cars soft spot in launching, and slipping the clutch is the only way you're going to get the car to hook with street tires
06-08-2014, 10:38 AM
#25
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06-08-2014, 01:23 PM
#26
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Nope, they handle very well, in general. Drag radials in general handle pretty good, I would not let that be something that holds ya up from getting a drag radial. If your looking at. Nt555r I would just skip right to the nt05r or mt and let her rip. cut a 1.9-2.0 60' and run your low 13.1x - 13.2x
There are better radials to get that will perform better, but won't handle as well or last as long as the 555r. It would be kind of like buying a all season tire where they get by at everything, but do nothing very well.
A bias ply like Hoosier QTP DOT slicks or MT ET street DOT slick is more ideal, and you can pick up spare pair of salad shooters to mount them on Craigslist.
The GM 7.5 even in built form is just to weak behind the manual transmission. It is not how quick you get to the sixty foot that kills it, but the shock it sees on the hit. A manual trans shocks the drive train harder than a auto and either the tires will spin or the weak link breaks. The axle tubes deflect, the housing distorts, and the pinion tries to walk up the ring gear. This is why stock to very mildly modified LT1/LS1 cars will break them. Hell you put a nice enough street tire on there and launch like you mean it and it'll snap.
Not only is a beefy rear end a reliability and performance upgrade, but a safety upgrade to. If you lose a c clip, or the axles snaps nothing but the caliper is holding it from spitting onto the track.
06-08-2014, 01:27 PM
#27
TECH Junkie
A drag radial on a stick car - especially the 555r will perform no better than a good street tire. They have stiff side walls which make them good for driving on the street, but spin very easily on the hit from a manual.
There are better radials to get that will perform better, but won't handle as well or last as long as the 555r. It would be kind of like buying a all season tire where they get by at everything, but do nothing very well.
A bias ply like Hoosier QTP DOT slicks or MT ET street DOT slick is more ideal, and you can pick up spare pair of salad shooters to mount them on Craigslist.
That is a very good price!
Yes.
The GM 7.5 even in built form is just to weak behind the manual transmission. It is not how quick you get to the sixty foot that kills it, but the shock it sees on the hit. A manual trans shocks the drive train harder than a auto and either the tires will spin or the weak link breaks. The axle tubes deflect, the housing distorts, and the pinion tries to walk up the ring gear. This is why stock to very mildly modified LT1/LS1 cars will break them. Hell you put a nice enough street tire on there and launch like you mean it and it'll snap.
Not only is a beefy rear end a reliability and performance upgrade, but a safety upgrade to. If you lose a c clip, or the axles snaps nothing but the caliper is holding it from spitting onto the track.
There are better radials to get that will perform better, but won't handle as well or last as long as the 555r. It would be kind of like buying a all season tire where they get by at everything, but do nothing very well.
A bias ply like Hoosier QTP DOT slicks or MT ET street DOT slick is more ideal, and you can pick up spare pair of salad shooters to mount them on Craigslist.
That is a very good price!
Yes.
The GM 7.5 even in built form is just to weak behind the manual transmission. It is not how quick you get to the sixty foot that kills it, but the shock it sees on the hit. A manual trans shocks the drive train harder than a auto and either the tires will spin or the weak link breaks. The axle tubes deflect, the housing distorts, and the pinion tries to walk up the ring gear. This is why stock to very mildly modified LT1/LS1 cars will break them. Hell you put a nice enough street tire on there and launch like you mean it and it'll snap.
Not only is a beefy rear end a reliability and performance upgrade, but a safety upgrade to. If you lose a c clip, or the axles snaps nothing but the caliper is holding it from spitting onto the track.
That's why I said skip the 555r and get a nt05r or a mt
06-08-2014, 10:47 PM
#29
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input guys. Still, $600 into a stock 7.5" for gears, support bars, and girdle is much less than a very good deal $2600 for a Dana60. Saves me $2000, or does it waste me $600? Many guys here on stock rears cutting down to 1.7-1.8 60's slipping the clutch. Supported with girdles have seen faster than that without breaking or noise. I still don't know though.
06-09-2014, 11:43 AM
#32
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I'll probably do that. When the 7.5" goes is a great time to convince the wife I need a stronger, more expensive, rear axle. But, I'll probably still do the gears, girdle, and tube supports to by me more time. If I get a year out of $600 I'd call it a sound investment.
06-09-2014, 12:24 PM
#35
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06-09-2014, 03:09 PM
#38
Don't spend $600 on the stock junk period. If you know anyone who can weld, do a search on here and see about swapping in a Ford 8.8
A member here, hiltsy, sells a weld on bracket for the torque arm and you can get custom axles from a place like Moser. Overall the project should be able to be completed for a lot cheaper than anything aftermarket.
A member here, hiltsy, sells a weld on bracket for the torque arm and you can get custom axles from a place like Moser. Overall the project should be able to be completed for a lot cheaper than anything aftermarket.
06-09-2014, 03:28 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
Don't spend $600 on the stock junk period. If you know anyone who can weld, do a search on here and see about swapping in a Ford 8.8
A member here, hiltsy, sells a weld on bracket for the torque arm and you can get custom axles from a place like Moser. Overall the project should be able to be completed for a lot cheaper than anything aftermarket.
A member here, hiltsy, sells a weld on bracket for the torque arm and you can get custom axles from a place like Moser. Overall the project should be able to be completed for a lot cheaper than anything aftermarket.