Temp mods for trip to strip.
Temp mods for trip to strip. I will be going to a drag strip for the first time at the end of the month, and was wondering if there are any cheap mods that I could do to get a better time. The car has almost all bolt ons (SSRA, lid/filter, LT's, ORY, Catback, UDP, SFC's, MWC torque arm/crossmember) and made 351 RWHP and 365 ft-lbs before the UDP.
My thoughts are:
- remove rear seats
- remove spare and jack at the track
- remove the hooker aerochamber muffler and put a turndown in its place (will this affect my AFR)
Are there any other easy things to do?
My thoughts are:
- remove rear seats
- remove spare and jack at the track
- remove the hooker aerochamber muffler and put a turndown in its place (will this affect my AFR)
Are there any other easy things to do?
Is the sway bar easy enough to disconnect once I get to the track, or would I need to do it before hand? My thoughts on the muffler removal is that it is very easy to remove (3 bolt flange) and would drop some weight and any exhaust restriction.
TB is ported, and I will be using 275/45/17 continental ExtremeContact DW tires. I could put on spare rims/tires on the front but that seems pretty sketchy. I could pull the air filter?
Also sorry this should be in the drag racing tech section.
TB is ported, and I will be using 275/45/17 continental ExtremeContact DW tires. I could put on spare rims/tires on the front but that seems pretty sketchy. I could pull the air filter?
Also sorry this should be in the drag racing tech section.
those tires are going to set you up for not coming close to your potential but if your set on using them the sway bar removal will help transfer more weight onto them and you may want to ballast the rear (add weight in the trunkwell) to help them try to get traction on a race track - be sure to stay out of the waterbox completely with any treaded tire too
With just street tires I'd ease into it off idle roughly and go from there. You might have a hard time breaking out of the 13's but it definitely can be done on those tires
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Verdad Gallardo those tires are going to set you up for not coming close to your potential but if your set on using them the sway bar removal will help transfer more weight onto them and you may want to ballast the rear (add weight in the trunkwell) to help them try to get traction on a race track - be sure to stay out of the waterbox completely with any treaded tire too
Any recommendations on pulling the air filter and/or putting on spare tires in the front?
So you would say that it is not worth it to remove the muffler, since the weight is in the right place? Would you recommend removing the rear seats to save a few pounds, or just leave them in?
Haha I like your analogy! I may look around for any cheap drag radials in my area, but I don't want to be picking up the contents of my 10 bolt off the ground either.
Any recommendations on pulling the air filter and/or putting on spare tires in the front?
Haha I like your analogy! I may look around for any cheap drag radials in my area, but I don't want to be picking up the contents of my 10 bolt off the ground either.
Any recommendations on pulling the air filter and/or putting on spare tires in the front?
removing rear seats cant hurt , if the spares for the front your talking about are lighter and narrower that would be good ( I also pump fronts up to around 60psi at the track) I wouldn't remove the filter element , did that once on another platform and promptly plugged up the maf screen with debris - cars passing over pavement at 100+ cause a lot of loose debris.
As for your 10 bolt you haven't mentioned that I see if your A4 or M6.
if A4 it takes a lot to break a 10 bolt , if M6 your concern is valid but just be conservative on the launch and don't make a ton of passes - quality over quantity , The previous owner of my M6 car made 3 passes with it a couple months before I bought it all in the 11.9's stock internal , I was there that night and that was good enough for me the rear is quiet and Im keeping it that way, just a street car for me.
Maybe you could rent or borrow a pair of dr's for a couple passes from a member in your area?
If you don't have a cutout, removing the muffler will net you 1 mph or so. I would remove it. As said pump your front tires up for less rolling resistance, I use 45 psi. If you have a M6 come out of the hole easy to avoid wheel spin. With the same tires as you the best 60' I had was 2.0x with 4.10 gears and alot of practice, expect 2.2x or worse.
Well I went on Friday, all I did was remove the spare tire and jack then air the rear tires down to ~25 PSI after a few passes. I was able to make 12 passes total (let my dad take one pass), and definitely learned a lot!
Here is a picture of the best slip (car 160):
My first pass had the best 60ft of the night at 2.007 seconds, but I missed the 2-3 shift the first 5 passes. Once I got the shifting figured out I was able to get some decent consistency in ET and MPH: 12.979 @ 111.57, 13.020 @ 111.60, 13.156 @ 111.58.
Here is a picture of the best slip (car 160):
My first pass had the best 60ft of the night at 2.007 seconds, but I missed the 2-3 shift the first 5 passes. Once I got the shifting figured out I was able to get some decent consistency in ET and MPH: 12.979 @ 111.57, 13.020 @ 111.60, 13.156 @ 111.58.
Does the car have a tune? Nice job for your first time out. The more seat time you get the more comfortable you get and the more you learn. It gets addicting really quick lol.
You definitely need some stick tires though so you can drop that 60'. Car is good for low 12's if you can get a 1.7! Only thing to worry about once you get DR's is that clutch starting to stick.
Keep at it!
You definitely need some stick tires though so you can drop that 60'. Car is good for low 12's if you can get a 1.7! Only thing to worry about once you get DR's is that clutch starting to stick.
Keep at it!
Does the car have a tune? Nice job for your first time out. The more seat time you get the more comfortable you get and the more you learn. It gets addicting really quick lol.
You definitely need some stick tires though so you can drop that 60'. Car is good for low 12's if you can get a 1.7! Only thing to worry about once you get DR's is that clutch starting to stick.
Keep at it!
You definitely need some stick tires though so you can drop that 60'. Car is good for low 12's if you can get a 1.7! Only thing to worry about once you get DR's is that clutch starting to stick.
Keep at it!
I was considering getting some sticky tires, but decided to save the money for a house (actually got the call that the seller accepted my offer 30 min before racing). If I end up going more often I would get some sticky tires (bias ply for the M6?), but would be worried for the 10 bolt.
According to dragtimes.com the corrected time would be 12.717 @ 113.92 MPH for whatever that is worth.
Yes, the car was tuned by CJtunes in MN. It was a lot of fun, and addicting for sure. It sucks that the track is 170 miles away, but I averaged over 20 MPG driving there and making 12 passes.
I was considering getting some sticky tires, but decided to save the money for a house (actually got the call that the seller accepted my offer 30 min before racing). If I end up going more often I would get some sticky tires (bias ply for the M6?), but would be worried for the 10 bolt.
According to dragtimes.com the corrected time would be 12.717 @ 113.92 MPH for whatever that is worth.
I was considering getting some sticky tires, but decided to save the money for a house (actually got the call that the seller accepted my offer 30 min before racing). If I end up going more often I would get some sticky tires (bias ply for the M6?), but would be worried for the 10 bolt.
According to dragtimes.com the corrected time would be 12.717 @ 113.92 MPH for whatever that is worth.
I never ran a bias ply on my last M6 car, Hoosier DR worked fine for me. Did 11.9 @ 114 in my bolt-on M6 WS6. After so many passes of launching hard they will take a toll on your rear end though. I think after about 60ish passes on DR's my stock 3:42 10-Bolt took a poop and I got a deal on one with 4:10's, so I did that instead of a 9" for the time being. Car did a few 1.6x 60's with that setup.
I usually don't go by corrected times unless someone is at elevation or the DA is crazy high. What was the DA when you ran?
Gotcha, well yea priorities are definitely important.
I never ran a bias ply on my last M6 car, Hoosier DR worked fine for me. Did 11.9 @ 114 in my bolt-on M6 WS6. After so many passes of launching hard they will take a toll on your rear end though. I think after about 60ish passes on DR's my stock 3:42 10-Bolt took a poop and I got a deal on one with 4:10's, so I did that instead of a 9" for the time being. Car did a few 1.6x 60's with that setup.
I usually don't go by corrected times unless someone is at elevation or the DA is crazy high. What was the DA when you ran?
I never ran a bias ply on my last M6 car, Hoosier DR worked fine for me. Did 11.9 @ 114 in my bolt-on M6 WS6. After so many passes of launching hard they will take a toll on your rear end though. I think after about 60ish passes on DR's my stock 3:42 10-Bolt took a poop and I got a deal on one with 4:10's, so I did that instead of a 9" for the time being. Car did a few 1.6x 60's with that setup.
I usually don't go by corrected times unless someone is at elevation or the DA is crazy high. What was the DA when you ran?
Here is a quick video I put together of the run.
Last edited by z-maro; Oct 6, 2014 at 10:39 PM.
1. first time to the track
2. standard shift
3. powerful car with street tires
^ those 3 things usually combine for a bunch of smoke , decent trap speeds and terrible et's you did very well with what you had you gotta have good common sense/track sense to get into the 12's with those conditions.
your mods and trap speeds say flirting with that 11.99 mark or at least low 12's like Rob is saying.
Where you drove it there a long way then made a ton of passes think about getting there early next time so you can cool the car off a while with the hood open and make fewer passes again cooling after every couple passes for a while before making another pass , quality over quantity heat soak likely was an issue for you
Last edited by murphinator; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:12 PM.
When you buy sticky tires you could go a bit taller than your current tires and may be able to wring out 3rd through the traps... good job on the times also
1. first time to the track
2. standard shift
3. powerful car with street tires
^ those 3 things usually combine for a bunch of smoke , decent trap speeds and terrible et's you did very well with what you had you gotta have good common sense/track sense to get into the 12's with those conditions.
your mods and trap speeds say flirting with that 11.99 mark or at least low 12's like Rob is saying.
Where you drove it there a long way then made a ton of passes think about getting there early next time so you can cool the car off a while with the hood open and make fewer passes again cooling after every couple passes for a while before making another pass , quality over quantity heat soak likely was an issue for you
1. first time to the track
2. standard shift
3. powerful car with street tires
^ those 3 things usually combine for a bunch of smoke , decent trap speeds and terrible et's you did very well with what you had you gotta have good common sense/track sense to get into the 12's with those conditions.
your mods and trap speeds say flirting with that 11.99 mark or at least low 12's like Rob is saying.
Where you drove it there a long way then made a ton of passes think about getting there early next time so you can cool the car off a while with the hood open and make fewer passes again cooling after every couple passes for a while before making another pass , quality over quantity heat soak likely was an issue for you
If I get a set of stick tires I would probably put them on a set of 16" firebird rims. I assume that would be better than 17's.
Last edited by z-maro; Sep 28, 2014 at 09:40 PM.
bias ply is easier on the driveline than radials. nice runs your car runs good. Best I can get out of my stock exhaust only ls1 is 8.5 at 84mph.. we only have a 1/8th track around here
Oh, I also forgot to add the best part is that I beat my friends stock '13 5.0 mustang!