First time at track in 2000 SS

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Old May 30, 2016 | 08:34 PM
  #21  
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LS6 intake inbound. Speed Engineering headers, Y-pipe and custom 3" pipe to MagnaFlow and tune. I may do a TC too.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 04:25 PM
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Shift it at 5000rpm if not already doing so...buzzing that motor kills et. Your car will run a 13.00 in decent air with a 3.73 gear and the stock converter.

My '99 Z-28 was campaigned in NMCA in 2000. The only modifications were a shift kit, HyperTech tuner, 4.10 gear and M/T DOT tires...ran a best of 12.78 at Moroso Park in good air. Began running the 13-second index efi class at the beginning of the year...by year end I had installed a 125 shot dry nitrous kit with a progressive controller and dropped down to efi 12. It ran a best of 11.66 @ 118mph.

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Last edited by HandOverFist; Jul 3, 2016 at 05:07 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by HandOverFist
Shift it at 5000rpm if not already doing so...buzzing that motor kills et.
[/IMG]
5K?? I hope to be getting my car dynotuned this week after adding LT's, BH True Duals, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, plugs/wiresAre. Are you suggesting that I have my tuner make the shift point at 5K? I'm fairly new here but I think my tuner would laugh at me. My car shifts around 5800-6K. I plan to keep it around that.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rybern
5K?? I hope to be getting my car dynotuned this week after adding LT's, BH True Duals, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, plugs/wiresAre. Are you suggesting that I have my tuner make the shift point at 5K? I'm fairly new here but I think my tuner would laugh at me. My car shifts around 5800-6K. I plan to keep it around that.
Don't know your ultimate goals for the car, but I can tell you that your car can run 13.00 without most of those parts. I can also tell you how to safely shift the car manually with the factory console/shifter if you like. Do you have a tach in the car?
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rybern
5K?? I hope to be getting my car dynotuned this week after adding LT's, BH True Duals, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA, plugs/wiresAre. Are you suggesting that I have my tuner make the shift point at 5K? I'm fairly new here but I think my tuner would laugh at me. My car shifts around 5800-6K. I plan to keep it around that.
I hope that was a typo by him. Do NOT listen to that.
My 1-2 is set at 6150 and 2-3 is at 6100.

This past spring I rebuilt my transmission and tightened up band clearance quit a bit in turn causing it to short shift from my original tune settings.
It would shift 1-2 at 5500. Ran 12.4@108 with it short shifting. Had my tuner make a adjustment and got it squared away. The next weekend shifting at 6150 on the 1-2 it ran 12.2@111 mph in exact same weather
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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This is based on a assumed factory torque converter and minimal mods. You can let the car make the shift decisions or you can take control and actually drive it yourself. Just letting you know what works. Btw, shifting by a tach at 5000 will usually produce 5500 or higher rpm shifts due to reaction by the driver...point being the engine wants/needs a lower shift point for maximum et reduction. My honest opinion atm is to have a set of DOT radials for the rear before anything else.

Last edited by HandOverFist; Jul 4, 2016 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HandOverFist
This is based on a assumed factory torque converter and minimal mods. You can let the car make the shift decisions or you can take control and actually drive it yourself. Just letting you know what works. Btw, shifting by a tach at 5000 will usually produce 5500 or higher rpm shifts due to reaction by the driver...point being the engine wants/needs a lower shift point for maximum et reduction. My honest opinion atm is to have a set of DOT radials for the rear before anything else.
No way can this be serious lol
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
No way can this be serious lol
Yeah, just kidding...what do I know about it? NMCA just gives these away from time to time...

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Btw, we ran on a .400 Pro tree that year.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HandOverFist
Yeah, just kidding...what do I know about it? NMCA just gives these away from time to time...

So you think shifting a stock ls1 at 5,000 rpm's will run faster than running it out to 6100 rpm's?
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
So you think shifting a stock ls1 at 5,000 rpm's will run faster than running it out to 6100 rpm's?
Proven time and again on the track...15 years ago.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HandOverFist
Proven time and again on the track...15 years ago.
For a truly stock car, you are correct. And I have to say, the car in this thread is close enough. Unless you swap the camshaft and/or intake manifold, a stock ls1 camaro peaks between 5000 and 5500 and begins to taper down after that.
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Above is a truly stock ls1 camaro dyno graph.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1970camaroRS
For a truly stock car, you are correct. And I have to say, the car in this thread is close enough. Unless you swap the camshaft and/or intake manifold, a stock ls1 camaro peaks between 5000 and 5500 and begins to taper down after that.


Above is a truly stock ls1 camaro dyno graph.
A stock car with a stock converter is not going to run faster shifting at 5,000 rpm's as opposed to 6,000
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
A stock car with a stock converter is not going to run faster shifting at 5,000 rpm's as opposed to 6,000
You could not be more wrong in your assumption...been there, done that.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
A stock car with a stock converter is not going to run faster shifting at 5,000 rpm's as opposed to 6,000
I'm a noob, but it defies logic to me too. My issue in believing this logic has to do with what the RPM will be after the shift. It will be to an even lower portion of the power curve. This is in addition to not taking advantage of more time in the peak power.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rybern
I'm a noob, but it defies logic to me too. My issue in believing this logic has to do with what the RPM will be after the shift. It will be to an even lower portion of the power curve. This is in addition to not taking advantage of more time in the peak power.
The car will tell you what it wants based on the et slip.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HandOverFist
The car will tell you what it wants based on the et slip.
So, to shift an Auto at 5K manually, you start in 1st and shift into each gear at 5K which will be close to 5500 by the time it shifts. Is that how it works? Heck I'd be willing to try it myself at the track next time. Assuming I get my car tuned this week, I plan to make it to the strip within the next few weeks to get some feedback about the gains from my mods.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rybern
So, to shift an Auto at 5K manually, you start in 1st and shift into each gear at 5K which will be close to 5500 by the time it shifts. Is that how it works? Heck I'd be willing to try it myself at the track next time. Assuming I get my car tuned this week, I plan to make it to the strip within the next few weeks to get some feedback about the gains from my mods.
Like stated before, this works on a stock or near stock car. At any rate it does not cost a thing to try. If you do attempt it do not grab the stick to shift thru the gears. Pull it back into low and place your right hand on the console with the web between the thumb and fore finger against the shifter handle at the base. Simply lift/rotate your hand forward forward for each shift...works great.
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