Track results with MS3 and AFR 205's
02-18-2005, 04:20 PM
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You have a good combo there, just need to set the rest of the car up right to run a good number...and yes get the tune and shifts all figured out too. Also the car is heavy and that will effect it. Have you done any weight reduction at all?? Are you running stock wheels/tire up front too?? Many factors here.
Dont worry about the rear end. Hate to say but if you are really that worried about breaking stuff you shouldnt have modded the car so much 
Not trying to be an *** or anything, just sayin.
I don't trust the stock 10 bolts enough to try
Not trying to be an *** or anything, just sayin. 
02-18-2005, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mike c.
i would of thought with the afr's it would be faster. i was near mid 11's with an old set of speed inc heads.
Well since I'm still getting the P106 code, I'm thinking those runs were make in the low octane table with only 18* of spark.
Also the car is shifting at 6200 with the converter locking up or not locking, slowing it down some more.
I'll have some new times soon.
02-18-2005, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew778
Well since I'm still getting the P106 code, I'm thinking those runs were make in the low octane table with only 18* of spark.
02-18-2005, 09:25 PM
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He is probably right. We just went through that with a car here. It threw the p0106 code even after tuning and when we scanned it, the MAP reading stayed flat lined and he was stuck in cells 20 & 22. Turns out a prong on the MAP sensor was bent and not plugging in right. After that was fixed, you would not believe the difference in the car!!
Originally Posted by Drew778
I'm waiting on a new MAP sensor, Jason thinks its bad after trying 3 different tune to fix the P-106 
Hopefully the new MAP sensor comes in soon
Hopefully the new MAP sensor comes in soon
02-18-2005, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Redhawk
He is probably right. We just went through that with a car here. It threw the p0106 code even after tuning and when we scanned it, the MAP reading stayed flat lined and he was stuck in cells 20 & 22. Turns out a prong on the MAP sensor was bent and not plugging in right. After that was fixed, you would not believe the difference in the car!!
All I can do now is hope
02-18-2005, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Or swap with Myles car, he dont need his anyway!
Or we have a spare NBM '00 Z-28 for a parts car (even though the half the part aren't in the car
) 
02-18-2005, 11:15 PM
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Havent seen anyone Hand Port the AFRs and show any gains yet, got any proof of your theory?
That POS NBM Z, which happens to be mine, should have all its parts Andrew, but the MAP is kind of epoxied to the Intake, so no-go for you. The parts had better be there, not being sold for something on the horizon....
That POS NBM Z, which happens to be mine, should have all its parts Andrew, but the MAP is kind of epoxied to the Intake, so no-go for you. The parts had better be there, not being sold for something on the horizon....
02-18-2005, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Havent seen anyone Hand Port the AFRs and show any gains yet, got any proof of your theory?
That POS NBM Z, which happens to be mine, should have all its parts Andrew, but the MAP is kind of epoxied to the Intake, so no-go for you. The parts had better be there, not being sold for something on the horizon....
That POS NBM Z, which happens to be mine, should have all its parts Andrew, but the MAP is kind of epoxied to the Intake, so no-go for you. The parts had better be there, not being sold for something on the horizon....
The heads are not getting any porting, the setup just need to come together
02-19-2005, 02:23 AM
#33
i saw a ls1tech member did a porting job by Futral Motorsport on bare LS1 AFR heads and got them to flow like 333cfm at the peak. also i can remeber a post about i guess a corvette that did 495rwhp with warmed over 205 AFR's and the other mods, i guess he meant be warmed over that these heads are hand ported. i myself will get a set of handported bare 205 AFR heads by race-prep.
02-19-2005, 04:38 AM
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Hmm, will have to look some more. I seen some results where AFRs were "hand ported" but yielded poor numbers. I am having a cam spec'd to the heads and rest of the combo, but ANDREW didnt listen to me on that one! His loss my gain
Good luck with your combo Abdullah, hope your AFRs come out better then others.
Good luck with your combo Abdullah, hope your AFRs come out better then others.
02-19-2005, 10:30 AM
#35
Andrew,
They're some nice shakedown runs for the first time out with the new setup, but there's a TON left in it! As others have pointed out, you should be shifting right at 6700 RPM with the MS3. Twenty-three degrees of timing is definitely low, and the converter and gearing is by no means ideal for the setup. With your 3500 stall speed, 3.23's, and 26" tall tire, you're going to be close to maxed out on a 150 HP shot with respect to RPM's across the finish line. When I ran my H/C setup with an NX 100 shot on 26" ET Drags with 3.73's, I would cross the finish line at 6700 RPM. You'll run out of RPM on your current tires and 150 shot if you swap to 3.73's. I like the 28" tire suggestion. When I stepped up to a 150 shot, I swapped to a 28x10x15 Hoosier slick. Either way, a full slick is going to hook MUCH better than your ET Streets. I had a best 60' of 1.43 on my stock 10-bolt rearend, so I wouldn't worry too much with the current 1.6x 60' times. I had about a dozen passes in the 1.4x 60' range on the 10-bolt with no problems, but it's certainly on borrowed time when running that quick.
If the car was going to be setup naturally-aspirated, you would need no less than a 4000 RPM stall speed and 3.73:1 gearing. With your current 3500 stall speed and 3.23:1 gearing, you should be dropping to about 4600 RPM on the shifts. That's certainly not ideal for a cam like the MS3! With a 4000 stall and 3.73's, your shift extensions would be around 5,400-5,500 RPM. That's a big difference in ET! Unfortunately, you have to make a trade-off. You'll give up naturally-aspirated performance to be able to run nitrous. If you are serious about the nitrous, I would swap to a 28" slick (not a DOT tire!) and 3.73's. I think you'll enjoy launching off of the line with a 150 HP shot.
Your new 347 cid is capable of plenty of power once the tune is lined out. It's just getting the car setup to make the best use of the power. Feel free to shoot me an e-mail at trevor@texas-speed.com or give me a call on Monday, and I'll be happy to discuss your setup with you.
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
They're some nice shakedown runs for the first time out with the new setup, but there's a TON left in it! As others have pointed out, you should be shifting right at 6700 RPM with the MS3. Twenty-three degrees of timing is definitely low, and the converter and gearing is by no means ideal for the setup. With your 3500 stall speed, 3.23's, and 26" tall tire, you're going to be close to maxed out on a 150 HP shot with respect to RPM's across the finish line. When I ran my H/C setup with an NX 100 shot on 26" ET Drags with 3.73's, I would cross the finish line at 6700 RPM. You'll run out of RPM on your current tires and 150 shot if you swap to 3.73's. I like the 28" tire suggestion.
When I stepped up to a 150 shot, I swapped to a 28x10x15 Hoosier slick. Either way, a full slick is going to hook MUCH better than your ET Streets. I had a best 60' of 1.43 on my stock 10-bolt rearend, so I wouldn't worry too much with the current 1.6x 60' times. I had about a dozen passes in the 1.4x 60' range on the 10-bolt with no problems, but it's certainly on borrowed time when running that quick.If the car was going to be setup naturally-aspirated, you would need no less than a 4000 RPM stall speed and 3.73:1 gearing. With your current 3500 stall speed and 3.23:1 gearing, you should be dropping to about 4600 RPM on the shifts. That's certainly not ideal for a cam like the MS3! With a 4000 stall and 3.73's, your shift extensions would be around 5,400-5,500 RPM. That's a big difference in ET! Unfortunately, you have to make a trade-off. You'll give up naturally-aspirated performance to be able to run nitrous. If you are serious about the nitrous, I would swap to a 28" slick (not a DOT tire!) and 3.73's. I think you'll enjoy launching off of the line with a 150 HP shot.
Your new 347 cid is capable of plenty of power once the tune is lined out. It's just getting the car setup to make the best use of the power. Feel free to shoot me an e-mail at trevor@texas-speed.com or give me a call on Monday, and I'll be happy to discuss your setup with you.
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
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02-19-2005, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.
Andrew,
They're some nice shakedown runs for the first time out with the new setup, but there's a TON left in it! As others have pointed out, you should be shifting right at 6700 RPM with the MS3. Twenty-three degrees of timing is definitely low, and the converter and gearing is by no means ideal for the setup. With your 3500 stall speed, 3.23's, and 26" tall tire, you're going to be close to maxed out on a 150 HP shot with respect to RPM's across the finish line. When I ran my H/C setup with an NX 100 shot on 26" ET Drags with 3.73's, I would cross the finish line at 6700 RPM. You'll run out of RPM on your current tires and 150 shot if you swap to 3.73's. I like the 28" tire suggestion. When I stepped up to a 150 shot, I swapped to a 28x10x15 Hoosier slick. Either way, a full slick is going to hook MUCH better than your ET Streets. I had a best 60' of 1.43 on my stock 10-bolt rearend, so I wouldn't worry too much with the current 1.6x 60' times. I had about a dozen passes in the 1.4x 60' range on the 10-bolt with no problems, but it's certainly on borrowed time when running that quick.
If the car was going to be setup naturally-aspirated, you would need no less than a 4000 RPM stall speed and 3.73:1 gearing. With your current 3500 stall speed and 3.23:1 gearing, you should be dropping to about 4600 RPM on the shifts. That's certainly not ideal for a cam like the MS3! With a 4000 stall and 3.73's, your shift extensions would be around 5,400-5,500 RPM. That's a big difference in ET! Unfortunately, you have to make a trade-off. You'll give up naturally-aspirated performance to be able to run nitrous. If you are serious about the nitrous, I would swap to a 28" slick (not a DOT tire!) and 3.73's. I think you'll enjoy launching off of the line with a 150 HP shot.
Your new 347 cid is capable of plenty of power once the tune is lined out. It's just getting the car setup to make the best use of the power. Feel free to shoot me an e-mail at trevor@texas-speed.com or give me a call on Monday, and I'll be happy to discuss your setup with you.
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
They're some nice shakedown runs for the first time out with the new setup, but there's a TON left in it! As others have pointed out, you should be shifting right at 6700 RPM with the MS3. Twenty-three degrees of timing is definitely low, and the converter and gearing is by no means ideal for the setup. With your 3500 stall speed, 3.23's, and 26" tall tire, you're going to be close to maxed out on a 150 HP shot with respect to RPM's across the finish line. When I ran my H/C setup with an NX 100 shot on 26" ET Drags with 3.73's, I would cross the finish line at 6700 RPM. You'll run out of RPM on your current tires and 150 shot if you swap to 3.73's. I like the 28" tire suggestion.
When I stepped up to a 150 shot, I swapped to a 28x10x15 Hoosier slick. Either way, a full slick is going to hook MUCH better than your ET Streets. I had a best 60' of 1.43 on my stock 10-bolt rearend, so I wouldn't worry too much with the current 1.6x 60' times. I had about a dozen passes in the 1.4x 60' range on the 10-bolt with no problems, but it's certainly on borrowed time when running that quick.If the car was going to be setup naturally-aspirated, you would need no less than a 4000 RPM stall speed and 3.73:1 gearing. With your current 3500 stall speed and 3.23:1 gearing, you should be dropping to about 4600 RPM on the shifts. That's certainly not ideal for a cam like the MS3! With a 4000 stall and 3.73's, your shift extensions would be around 5,400-5,500 RPM. That's a big difference in ET! Unfortunately, you have to make a trade-off. You'll give up naturally-aspirated performance to be able to run nitrous. If you are serious about the nitrous, I would swap to a 28" slick (not a DOT tire!) and 3.73's. I think you'll enjoy launching off of the line with a 150 HP shot.
Your new 347 cid is capable of plenty of power once the tune is lined out. It's just getting the car setup to make the best use of the power. Feel free to shoot me an e-mail at trevor@texas-speed.com or give me a call on Monday, and I'll be happy to discuss your setup with you.
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
