Not much better
Not much better I just put in new 3:73 Motive gears in the car (3:23 stock) and I really wasnt that happy with the new times:
60' - 2.054
330' - 5.592
1/8 - 8.495 @ 84.19
1000' - 11.019
1/4 - 13.131 @ 107.44
I picked up almost 1 MPH and about .117 tenths of a second faster but I was hoping for a bit more. I guess the next thing is going to be to get the stall and hope to get my 60' times down considerably? Coach, any words of wisdom here? I feel like the street tires are holding providing I warm them up a bit. I am leaning towards a 3000 Stall, your thoughts? Would the stall drop me into the 12's? Also, man it is tough to keep the car at the staging lane, brakes almost dont want to hold her in place. Is this normal? I mean I have to stand on them to hold the car!!
60' - 2.054
330' - 5.592
1/8 - 8.495 @ 84.19
1000' - 11.019
1/4 - 13.131 @ 107.44
I picked up almost 1 MPH and about .117 tenths of a second faster but I was hoping for a bit more. I guess the next thing is going to be to get the stall and hope to get my 60' times down considerably? Coach, any words of wisdom here? I feel like the street tires are holding providing I warm them up a bit. I am leaning towards a 3000 Stall, your thoughts? Would the stall drop me into the 12's? Also, man it is tough to keep the car at the staging lane, brakes almost dont want to hold her in place. Is this normal? I mean I have to stand on them to hold the car!!
Originally Posted by rocketman442
Is that with all the mods in your sig?? You should be way faster than that with a bigger cam and gears and stuff. You've got a problem with your car somewhere. Yup, all the mods listed and that was the best I could get. It hasnt been tuned since the gears and Stainless Exhaust but like I said, I was dissapointed. Do you think a Dyno tune would be that much better? $500 - $600 is a but load of cash to spend if its not needed. Granted, the cam is not that big just a few steps above stock.
18s are probably hurting you, but you should at least be in the high 12's even in crappy weather. Is there any codes? Did someone competent tune the PCM? Any problems with the car.
A stall would definelty wake that car up, but you should definetly be running faster. The 18's are hurting, but not that much as I was running 18" drag radials and was still pulling low 1.80 60 fts. Before I added the TCI 3500 I was running around a 12.9 and after was a solid 12.4XXX. So I would expect that you would gain around a half second with a converter. I would also try a stickier tire to get a little traction, that 60 ft is pretty bad. Good luck and keep us posted.
Tune may be off... but you HAVE to get some real tires.
Stall would help... but you HAVE to get some real tires.
MT ET Street radials... we got local guys pulling 1.40 60 foots on them. They WILL hook for you. On a 15" rim preferably, and no more than a 16". Lose the bling rims if you want to go fast at the track. You NEED sidewall to launch.
They also have barely enough tread to drive to/from the track. DOT legal.
Drop that 60 foot to a 1.8, you are well in the 12s.
Also... don't stall against the brakes at the line. Try just flooring it on the last yellow. You may get far better results by 'flashing' the stall... and if you spin, you don't have enough tire.
You NEED some real tires.
Stall would help... but you HAVE to get some real tires.
MT ET Street radials... we got local guys pulling 1.40 60 foots on them. They WILL hook for you. On a 15" rim preferably, and no more than a 16". Lose the bling rims if you want to go fast at the track. You NEED sidewall to launch.
They also have barely enough tread to drive to/from the track. DOT legal.
Drop that 60 foot to a 1.8, you are well in the 12s.
Also... don't stall against the brakes at the line. Try just flooring it on the last yellow. You may get far better results by 'flashing' the stall... and if you spin, you don't have enough tire.
You NEED some real tires.
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Thanks. As far as tires, I dont spin when launching if I heat up the tires good enough. The best time I had was when I sat just outside the box and spun for about 5 seconds. As far as tuning the car it was a mail in tune from Ed Wright (FASTCHIP) but it sure seams like it is running rich, I can smell raw fuel at idle. The car seams to be running fine, a little rich in my opinion because I can smell fuel out the exhaust at idle but other than that it seams to be running fine with no codes. I was going to take it to a dyno to get the HP & TQ numbers and the guy said he could get the air/fuel numbers and send those to FASTCHIP along with the gear and new exhaust additions to get a better tune. Will that help as well? And another thing, shouldnt I be hot braking the car when I launch? Isnt that what your supposed to do with an automatic with either a factory or aftermarket stall?
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,834
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Another agreement for a custom in-person tune. I had one done on my car (minor stuff compared to yours) and found 10+ rwhp over the stock tune. Driveability was also much better than before.
Sticky tires are a must if you want to consistently hook, and even more necessary if you are considering an upgraded converter. I'd also install a good transmission cooler when you upgrade the converter.
What are you launching the car at? It shouldn't be that hard to keep her in place. I stall mine between 900-1000 rpm and have cut low 1.9 60 foots on a set of M/T sportman pro tires (26 x 9 x 16) on stock twisty rims.
Good luck!
Derek
Sticky tires are a must if you want to consistently hook, and even more necessary if you are considering an upgraded converter. I'd also install a good transmission cooler when you upgrade the converter.
What are you launching the car at? It shouldn't be that hard to keep her in place. I stall mine between 900-1000 rpm and have cut low 1.9 60 foots on a set of M/T sportman pro tires (26 x 9 x 16) on stock twisty rims.
Good luck!
Derek
Originally Posted by ss4chad
I just put in new 3:73 Motive gears in the car (3:23 stock) and I really wasnt that happy with the new times:
60' - 2.054
330' - 5.592
1/8 - 8.495 @ 84.19
1000' - 11.019
1/4 - 13.131 @ 107.44
I picked up almost 1 MPH and about .117 tenths of a second faster but I was hoping for a bit more. I guess the next thing is going to be to get the stall and hope to get my 60' times down considerably? Coach, any words of wisdom here? I feel like the street tires are holding providing I warm them up a bit. I am leaning towards a 3000 Stall, your thoughts? Would the stall drop me into the 12's? Also, man it is tough to keep the car at the staging lane, brakes almost dont want to hold her in place. Is this normal? I mean I have to stand on them to hold the car!!
60' - 2.054
330' - 5.592
1/8 - 8.495 @ 84.19
1000' - 11.019
1/4 - 13.131 @ 107.44
I picked up almost 1 MPH and about .117 tenths of a second faster but I was hoping for a bit more. I guess the next thing is going to be to get the stall and hope to get my 60' times down considerably? Coach, any words of wisdom here? I feel like the street tires are holding providing I warm them up a bit. I am leaning towards a 3000 Stall, your thoughts? Would the stall drop me into the 12's? Also, man it is tough to keep the car at the staging lane, brakes almost dont want to hold her in place. Is this normal? I mean I have to stand on them to hold the car!!
1. Tires you need better tires for sure.
2. You need a dyno tune. If you smell fuel you are to rich.
3. A convert would be my next mod.
How high are you stalling her to? She will push through the brake if ya get to high on the convert.
Coach
Hi Coach!
1) Tires? Hmmm....ok but I dont feel that is my problem. If I was leaving the line up in smoke squealin like a scalded dog then yes, but I aint.
2) Dyno Tune, I agree here but crap its expensive.
3) Converter yes, I was thinking 3000? Does that sound about right?
4) I am launching @ around 1200 to 1300
Now I am gonna say something that may sound stupid to some but....I always thought that you approached the line, got on the brake and brought up the RPM's until you felt the tires breaking free then ease off a bit and see what RPM is and then launch at that RPM? Is that right? And yes, it wants to push through the brake. I have to stand on the brake to get it to hold, I have already went through the light 2 times because of it. I never claimed to be a drag racer (golfer yes, drag racer no) so maybe I need a quick lesson in proper drag race tactics!! Thanks Coach!
1) Tires? Hmmm....ok but I dont feel that is my problem. If I was leaving the line up in smoke squealin like a scalded dog then yes, but I aint.
2) Dyno Tune, I agree here but crap its expensive.
3) Converter yes, I was thinking 3000? Does that sound about right?
4) I am launching @ around 1200 to 1300
Now I am gonna say something that may sound stupid to some but....I always thought that you approached the line, got on the brake and brought up the RPM's until you felt the tires breaking free then ease off a bit and see what RPM is and then launch at that RPM? Is that right? And yes, it wants to push through the brake. I have to stand on the brake to get it to hold, I have already went through the light 2 times because of it. I never claimed to be a drag racer (golfer yes, drag racer no) so maybe I need a quick lesson in proper drag race tactics!! Thanks Coach!
Last edited by ss4chad; Jul 5, 2006 at 12:30 PM.
7 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
You can skip the tune, but it's like saying "I'll keep putting air" in a tire with a hole in it. It doesn't solve the problem, it is merely ignoring it. I don't want to come off wrong here, but I'd fix what you have first before moving on, otherwise problems can be compiled the more you do without a good starting point.
You want the converter to have some "flash" to move the car. If you stall it up too high it will "push" the car more than "launch."
Converter choice will be based around what you want from the car and/or planning to do with it. I'm sure the trans section has some good info, or someone can pop in a suggest one (I'm stock converter, so I have no input here).
Derek
You want the converter to have some "flash" to move the car. If you stall it up too high it will "push" the car more than "launch."
Converter choice will be based around what you want from the car and/or planning to do with it. I'm sure the trans section has some good info, or someone can pop in a suggest one (I'm stock converter, so I have no input here).
Derek
Ok, I will get the dyno tune. Now I was wondering, should I NOT be pulling to the line and brake'n to bring the RPM's up to 1300 - 1400? I have a stock converter. Or should I drop the RPM's to under 1000 and the line and then launch? Please help!! 
