i hate 13.10s....

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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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Default i hate 13.10s....

no matter what i do i run 13.1 all dam day

with just lid, catback, and nitto DRs i ran a 13.1 @ ~105 w/1.999 60'

i decided to put some LTs on to get into the 12s but no. ran some more 13.10s @ 105-106 with 2.0 60'

how can i get these 60' down?

im just gona blame it on the weather.....
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Shittos suck. Ditch those drag radials and get some bfg's or mickey thompsons. Honestly though, my bet is that you didn't have the car tuned once you got the long tubes, and that is most likely why you didn't pick up any mph. Get the car tuned, and then see what it runs.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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i got the nittos just to try to protect my 10 bolt. i was considering the mickey thompsons but i heard they grip really hard.

i think im gona have to give the shop by me a call and get tuned...so much money...
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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I'm no expert when it comes to automatics, but your rear end should be fine with MT's or BFG drag radials, especially with your stock converter and current power level.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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I ran 13.1s consistantly when I had my stock stall and stock 2.73s on street tires. With Yank stall and 3.42s added I ran 12.6 @ 107.2 MPH on street tires. My 60' was 1.8.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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ya i know it should, but i worry alot about nothing and can't afford another 10-bolt
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nickdotcom
ya i know it should, but i worry alot about nothing and can't afford another 10-bolt
Considering how members constantly sell 10 bolts on here for $100, out of their car, I think you can afford it :p

Ehh, try not to worry too much about it. Some members haven't blown up a 10 bolt yet (Myself included). Around your power level, and being an automatic, it is highly unlikely to blow up.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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100 bucks?!?!?! alright then. next set of drag will be mickey thompsons et street radials
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 08:19 PM
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You won't even need the mickey thompsons, cause your stock stall converter won't allow you to leave the line at over 1500rpms. Just pick up some BFG's off of ebay.

Also do a search on the 10 bolts within the parts for sale column. Purchase one to cover for your paranoia
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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Are you A4 or M6?
With an Intake and Full Exhaust, I would recommend a nice mail order tune.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Mail order tunes are a joke. They are also about as expensive as a dyno tune. Around here you can get a dyno tune for $350 (If you don't have a cam that is, just bolt ons). Mail order tunes are typically over $250, and they aren't as solid as a dyno tune.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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im A4

could you explain more how the stock stall won't let me leave past 1500 rpm? i was not aware of that
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Default i disagree

Originally Posted by Denom
Mail order tunes are a joke. They are also about as expensive as a dyno tune. Around here you can get a dyno tune for $350 (If you don't have a cam that is, just bolt ons). Mail order tunes are typically over $250, and they aren't as solid as a dyno tune.
i had WAIT4ME do mine it works great.and only costed me 95 bucks shipping and everything.i got lucky ive heard its a hit or miss deal
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:32 PM
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Default 1750

Originally Posted by nickdotcom
im A4

could you explain more how the stock stall won't let me leave past 1500 rpm? i was not aware of that
mine stalls to 1750.flashes past 2k
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Denom
Mail order tunes are a joke. They are also about as expensive as a dyno tune. Around here you can get a dyno tune for $350 (If you don't have a cam that is, just bolt ons). Mail order tunes are typically over $250, and they aren't as solid as a dyno tune.
PCMforless = $200
Madtuner = $175

Both tuners have had thousands of customers with very successful results.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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pcmforless is really good for the b body I wouldnt suggest him for an f body
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Mine flashes to 4200 rpm.. but thats a Vig 3600 and 2.73's.. seriously you won't break the rearend with a stock stall thats for sure. Even if it flashed to 2K it wont leave anywhere near hard enough to stress the rearend at all. I've run 12.6x's in mine with 1.7 60's on MT radials and MT ET streets. I actually want mine to break just to give myself an excuse to put a 12 bolt in there with a 3.73 but it won't!

the disturbing part about your times though is you have LT's and have the same mph as a manifold car like mine. What gear is in the rearend? Is the trans shifting good? Its not bouncing off the limiter on the shifts is it? Are you leaving it in OD and running it? do you drive the car much? some cars need drive time for the PCM to adjust to the headers or It may just need a tune.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sixvi6-camaro
the disturbing part about your times though is you have LT's and have the same mph as a manifold car like mine. What gear is in the rearend? Is the trans shifting good? Its not bouncing off the limiter on the shifts is it? Are you leaving it in OD and running it? do you drive the car much?
i know, this is what this post is about. here are my times before and after the LT/y-pipe/p&p TB install

13.17 @ 105.08 w/ 1.998 60' and
13.194 @106.22 w/ 2.019 60'

3.23s in the rearend, shifting great, no bouncing, putting it into Drive and its my daily driver

it just seems to be exactly the same as before but loud as ****
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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get a handheld and get your throttle body ported and polished... car will still drive like it does, but at w/o throttle,you will be in the 12s.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hpls1
pcmforless is really good for the b body I wouldnt suggest him for an f body
What kind of reasoning is that?

People have done bolt-ons thousands of times. The tune is going to be the same every time. That's why you can do mail order tuning.

Get a mail order tune.
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