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Please critique my launch technique

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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 10:37 PM
  #1  
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Default Please critique my launch technique

I recently got a 12 bolt (3.73) and some MT ET Street Radials (275/40/17), which got from a 13.20 to a 12.66, mostly due to taking my 60' down from a 2.2 to a 1.8x

i'd really like to get my 60' down further. i fill the tires to 18psi. i've tried various burnout times from a quick couple spins to get the sand off, to a full blown smoke show, and have seen no difference. launch is basically tach it up to 5-6k and dump the clutch and gunning it.

my staging technique could use some work as well. at the tracks around here, the moment both cars get the 2nd stage light, they hit the button. i can never get ready and comfortable and get my rpms to where i want them, so i'm not even sure how various launch rpms are affecting things.

my shift light is set to 6k, hoping for a 6200rpm shift. i do let off the gas when shifting, cuz i dont want to kill my tranny.

details on the car:
bolt-on's and a tune, putting down about 360rwhp before i got the 12bolt. has a textrailia clone clutch, pro 5.0 shifter. suspension/chassis mods are: SFC, LCA, PHB, TA, DSL, STB, poly sway bar bushings. i havent had my LCA brackets welded on yet.

vehicle weight after the 12-bolt is 3755 with me in it, and a full tank of gas. i have the rear seats removed, and pretty much all the emissions equipment removed.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 08:14 AM
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are you set on using those tires/wheels?
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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You didn't mention if you had the front sway bar disconnected. If its not I'd do that first. That will drastically increase weight transfer. Might want to also invest in some adjustable struts and drag springs to get the nose to lift more.

But what does the car do when you dump it? Spin or bog? With ET streets I'd try and lower the tire pressure down to say 15psi and give it a go. Those are basically a slick with grooves cut in contact area.

-Mark
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Get a 2 step to help you launch. Once you light the 2nd beam hit the 2 step and floor it then dump the clutch on green
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wlsmoku
are you set on using those tires/wheels?
i just got them, and i got a spare set of stock firehawk wheels just for those tires. so yeah, i'm kinda set on the car having stock appearance

Originally Posted by Bitemark46
You didn't mention if you had the front sway bar disconnected. If its not I'd do that first. That will drastically increase weight transfer. Might want to also invest in some adjustable struts and drag springs to get the nose to lift more.

But what does the car do when you dump it? Spin or bog? With ET streets I'd try and lower the tire pressure down to say 15psi and give it a go. Those are basically a slick with grooves cut in contact area.

-Mark
front sway bar is connected. i had someone watch me launch, and i'd say it doesnt spin much at all. they said it spun for the first foot or so and hooked. first time on the DR's, i tried a 4k launch, and it very clearly bogged down, so it definitley needs 5k or higher.

Originally Posted by Krazy98Z28
Get a 2 step to help you launch. Once you light the 2nd beam hit the 2 step and floor it then dump the clutch on green
how exactly does that 2-step work? is it like a rev limiter to let you floor it and not have to try to hold the rpms?
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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first..like said before... lower your pressure to 15psi. I would do atleast a 4-5 second burnout. To help launch you may pull the e-brake as soon as you get to the line. This will help you focus on the rpm you want to launch at without the car rolling. Only thing is you'll have to remember to drop it as the lights are dropping(takes some practice). You may try leaving at 4-4500. I always like leaving at the peak or a little higher in the torque band. Keep dumping, shift rpm looks good and rip them gears
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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Slayer,

You car sounds almost the same as mine used to as far as the setup goes. Have you tried adjusting your pinion angle? -2 doesnt always work perfect for all cars, mine is set at -2.5 if i remember right. I ran 26-10.50-16 ET's Streets and was cutting 1.77-1.85 60's, played with the torque arm a bit and also the launch and got it to very consistent 1.61-1.63's.

I usually hold at 5300 RPM and when I see the last light I mash the gas and almost immediatly dump the clutch. It usually works out perfectly that I see a quick flash of the shift light and im off like a bandit....... I usually kept it in the 12.1-low 12.2 range.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by slayer_taunu

how exactly does that 2-step work? is it like a rev limiter to let you floor it and not have to try to hold the rpms?
Yes , you set the desired RPM and it will hold that RPM like a rev limiter.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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If you are just at a test and tune or some kind of open racing event don't worry about when the light turns green. Just sit there and focus on the launch. The only thing it will affect is your reaction time. Get the launch down then go for a good reaction time.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Krazy98Z28
Yes , you set the desired RPM and it will hold that RPM like a rev limiter.
cool, that definitley sounds like something that i want

Originally Posted by blk99camaro
Slayer,

You car sounds almost the same as mine used to as far as the setup goes. Have you tried adjusting your pinion angle? -2 doesnt always work perfect for all cars, mine is set at -2.5 if i remember right. I ran 26-10.50-16 ET's Streets and was cutting 1.77-1.85 60's, played with the torque arm a bit and also the launch and got it to very consistent 1.61-1.63's.
i'm pretty sure i set mine to -2 when i installed the rear end. is there any kind of formula (based on what mods you have, etc) to make an educated guess for what you should set the pinion angle to? or is it simply just trial and error?

i do still have a set of LCA brackets that i need to have welded on. dumbass me thought that i could take my bolt-on ones from my 10 bolt and bolt them to the 12 bolt... now i wish i ordered the 12 bolt with them already welded on

Originally Posted by PowershifterNC
first..like said before... lower your pressure to 15psi. I would do atleast a 4-5 second burnout. You may try leaving at 4-4500. I always like leaving at the peak or a little higher in the torque band. Keep dumping, shift rpm looks good and rip them gears
when i launched at 4000-4500 it really bogged. my theory for launching at 5000-6000 was that when the clutch engaged, it would drop to aroudn the 4500 point. but honestly, i dont really stare at the tach when i drive (thats what the shift light is for!), so i think i'll have to get a data logger too.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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All I'm saying is that I cut a 1.7 60 dropping at 4 with less mods than you. Try the other things I suggested and 4500 may work out for you
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Trial and error man!
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 07:42 AM
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Ya launching is the key to the game and a bitch to learn but once you get it you got it. I now have to learn how to launch with a MT, Before It was tricky with the Nitto's cause they just cant take a launch above 3k. The car would bog at 2.5k or lower and spun at 3.5k, so I launched at 3k and got mediocer results with 1.86-1.88s. With the new set up and the power the car puts down I am hoping to hit 1.6x.
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