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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #1  
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Default So now what?

11.6-11.66 in the 1/4 with 1.65 60' on nitto 555 DRs 315x35x17. Dont want to put skinnies on bc of grinding the calipers. Dont want to spray. Waiting for next fall to put in 12 bolt with 3.73's.

Anything else I can do?

Any tricks or any advice to drop that ET on down?

I hate this point in the game...everything just damn expensive.

Thanks,

Pride
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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yeah im in the same boat..i need a trany and rear. everything cost to much right now. you could try and take some weight out..carpet and 2 aluminum seats..lighter 17's. with m/t's or hoosier's. bumper suports. look at the weight reduction list. is it and auto. u can get away with a small shot from 60' out. the rear should last.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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I agree, go fast stuff is not cheap. So until I get my taxes back, I went with the free mods by eliminating weight from my 93. Go to the sticky up top as there is an updated list.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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if you buy the right wheels you do not need to grind the calipers
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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longer studs and a small spacer and no grinding needed ...defiantly get m/t next time around ....nittos just won't cut it ..and lighten it up some
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Greg welds are dirt cheap, and bolt on with no grinding. They will drop you about 1-2 tenths.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Krazy98Z28
if you buy the right wheels you do not need to grind the calipers
Agreed, Centerline Convo Pros DO NOT need any grinding, they are cheap, if you wanna spend some $$$ get some Bogart R/T's which are nearly the lightest and do not require grinding.



here is my car with the Centerlines.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Agreed, Centerline Convo Pros DO NOT need any grinding, they are cheap, if you wanna spend some $$$ get some Bogart R/T's which are nearly the lightest and do not require grinding.



here is my car with the Centerlines.
Those ugly things are 180.00 each. GW wheels look WAY better and are only 129.99

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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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^^ I know we have debated this before.

As far as I am concerned, I will not have miss matching rims on a car.

Unless It has been confirmed Greg weld rims do not fit the rear.

Can you confirm that has changed??

Because I do like the look, I do not want to cut the caliper, and I want the car to look good.



Is that a regular weld rim or a greg weld on the back, it looks too much NOT like the front rim which I do like very much.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
^^ I know we have debated this before.

As far as I am concerned, I will not have miss matching rims on a car.

Unless It has been confirmed Greg weld rims do not fit the rear.

Can you confirm that has changed??

Because I do like the look, I do not want to cut the caliper, and I want the car to look good.



Is that a regular weld rim or a greg weld on the back, it looks too much NOT like the front rim which I do like very much.

Its a prostar in the back. I have a picture somewhere with the 15x8 Greg Welds in the back. Didn't like the look at all. I like a thicker spoked rear. Weld Alumastars have a thick spoked rear, and thin spoked front. Does that mean they look like **** too?



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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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I think like even as your opinion you stated above, you dont care for the Convo, but at least they match. I put stock into that.

For those pics you posted, I DO NOT care for them, Greg Weld rims have the look like they can pass as a "street" rim, which is why I like, I would buy if they actually can be put on our rear. With out issue.

The price is attractive, but for those who care about the look I guess needs to make a decision.

But as per the original post, Convo can do the job with out cutting as well as a Greg weld front.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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I like both sets of rims....where did you guys get those? for 130 and 180? Also what size did you get, back spacing, and did you have to change studs, and did you have to use spacers?

thanks,

pride
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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Although taking off some weight will help your ET, but how much are you ready to take off the car??
You are knocking on the door where you have to put a cage in, so that will put you back at where you were before.... Add that, the 12 bolt, heavier drive shaft that goes along with it along with beefier parts here and there and you end up not saving any weight.

At some point, you will either have to gut the car to get the weight off or add a FI set up a big CI motor to make up for the weight.

I have a 9", heavy moser DS and a 6 point cage in the car and my race weight 3550lbs... That not too bad if you ask me.



Last edited by waterbug1999; Jan 6, 2009 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 350pride
I like both sets of rims....where did you guys get those? for 130 and 180? Also what size did you get, back spacing, and did you have to change studs, and did you have to use spacers?

thanks,

pride
Mine bolted right on with no grinding, spacer or anything. You dont have to change studs, but I did to be safe. Mine are 15x3.5 Greg Weld Dragstars with 1.75" backspace.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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I thought a shorten 12 bolt weighed less than a 10 bolt...question is though why do you shorten it?

And yes I know about the how cage thing...I want to hit 6.9x before I put one in though

Thanks for the responses,

Pride
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 350pride
I thought a shorten 12 bolt weighed less than a 10 bolt...question is though why do you shorten it?

And yes I know about the how cage thing...I want to hit 6.9x before I put one in though

Thanks for the responses,

Pride
Why some peeps get a shortened rear end is to be able to put on a fatter tire.. FYI, my MWC 9" weighed a tad less then my 10 bolt.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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waterbug...i just saw your times, and all motor we would have a hell of a race.

pride
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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LOL... I pretty much have the same mods as you.

But, I plan on putting a trans brake in the FLT Stage V trans, I am hoping to get a 1.2X 60' with that and get low 11's and low 10's when I up the shot. :-)
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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what kind of trany are you running? I heard that 4l60e+trany brake= transmission death certainly...sorta like slapping a forced induction kit on a stock bottom end...death is certain. Bc I was looking at doing the same thing, but when i mentioned it I got jumped all over.

So how are you going to get it to hold?

pride
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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im an idiot...didnt notice the flv stage 5 trans...but still not sure what that is? Can you enlighten me?

thanks,

pride
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