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Battery Relocation Question..

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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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Default Battery Relocation Question..

I'd like some opinions from you guys..

I did this right before I left for Iraq, so the car is currently in storage and apart, I've never had a chance to test this mod out.

Currently I have it setup like this..

4GA Welders Cable coming from the Battery in the back, going to the Distro Block on the Car, and then off of that is the Cable for the Starter, and for the Alternator.



What I'm thinking might be better is move the 4GA from the Distro Block to the Starter Terminal, and leave the rest of it alone.

The Neg. Terminal on the Battery in the back is bolted to the Body with a Braided Ground Strap and to the Frame Rail with a Jumper off of the Body Ground, so it has a very good metal to metal contact on the car to give it a good ground.
Here is a pic of how that is setup..


The Engine is grounded from the Motor Mount to the Strut Tower in the pic, and on the Driver's side from the Alternator Bracket to the Frame Rail with a Factory Grounding Strap.

You guys think taking the Cable to the Starter will be a good bet for it to work better?

Last edited by the_merv; Jan 6, 2009 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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I ran 2GA from battery to starter. Then 6 gauge from the same post on starter to dist. block. Alt. 6GA back to + post on battery. This way when the switch is on OFF at the rear the entire elec. system is off and car will die. With the alt. going to the dist. block when you kill battery power the pcm and engine will stil run off the alt. With the alt. going to + battery when you kill the + side of the battery your killing the power supply to entire car.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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I don't plan on installing a switch.

The way I figure, the way I want to do it should work cause the only time any major load is going through the 4GA will be when I start the car, any other time it will be a small current to keep the Battery charged and the major current travel will be all under the Hood where it had been. All the Wires are clean with good contacts.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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As long as the cable from the dist. block to the starter can handle the power while cranking the way you have it now should be fine. If your not planning on taking it to the track you'll be fine, most tech's around here at least would say somthing about no cutoff! It also makes it easy to kill power when doing repairs!

P.S. What's the day count before your return? Any chance or talk about havng to stay longer?
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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I'll move that 4GA to the Starter, that will elimate any problems.

I got about 5 Weeks till I'm back in country.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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I would sugest running a ground from the battery to the engine. I use a starter mount bolt for my battery ground. I get F bodys in all the time with the battery moved to the rear and just grounded to sheet metal. Often have to pull the PCM and flash it on the bench when tuning them, due to excessive voltage drop. EFI street rods often have the same problems. If you had a carb you could probably get by OK.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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^^It's grounded to the Frame Rail also, I have a little Cable going from that Bolt in the Sheet Metal to the Frame Rail.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
^^It's grounded to the Frame Rail also, I have a little Cable going from that Bolt in the Sheet Metal to the Frame Rail.

So were the cars that had problems. Safe thing to do is ground the battery directly to the engine.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
So were the cars that had problems. Safe thing to do is ground the battery directly to the engine.
I planned in welding a bolt as a post to the rear down bar when I put in my 8pt roll bar. I was going to put a 2ga wire from the - batt terminal to that and also have a 1" wide ground strap from the pass. motor mount (stock ground location) to the frame up front. Would this not be good enough as a ground?

Sorry Merv!
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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Imho, no.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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I ran the ground to the rear seat belt stud . This has worked good for 3+ years.

I also made this term. block to hook cables to in the stock bat. tray.

I used #2 cable with a 200A fuse on the - cable. Dale
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 06:29 AM
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When I did mine we welded a post right to the cage, and I used 0 guage weldign cable, that stuff is pretty good. Grounded the battery that way, put a push/pull shutoff, ran the 0 guage up the the HVAC delete where I put a bulkhead fiting, and attached all the wires there (reran what I had to with 2 or 4 guage to get there.

The alt has it's own wire that runs back and attaches at the battery, that was the only way I could get the car to shutoff when ya kill the power with the switch.

I did attach the grounds up front to a bolt in the engine bay, but my engine is also grounded with the motor plate too, I'm sure that doesn't hurt any.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Old thread, But some good info in here.
Just posting here so I can find it when I go to relocate my battery.

James
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 12:24 AM
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Yea..old thread..and I'm in Iraq again..lol

I'm actually moving it back up to the front cause I don't plan on running all the Cable to make it NHRA Legal..that and I'm not racing it.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
So were the cars that had problems. Safe thing to do is ground the battery directly to the engine.
^ Listen to this guy ... he knows what he's talking about.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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bumpin to keep the info around
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