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removing gas tank for rollbar?

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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Default removing gas tank for rollbar?

seen this mentioned on wolfes site. it is really needed? i dont see it being an issue myself. more of a safety issue of lawsuits if they dont put the warning up.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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I dont remove it but I TIG everything and we are extremely careful. There is a chance of blowing thru the floor and sending sparks onto the tank.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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I tried it leaving the tank in (98s are a royal PITA to get the tank out), it was all going fine until one of the plastic evap lines was a little too close to the floor apparently and caught on fire.

Luckily except for a melted line nothing bad happened but it could have been worse, next time I'll drop the tank
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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When we welded Trigger's bar in, we dropped it. I wouldn't want to weld a bar in with it up. It only takes 30 seconds to pull one strap bolt out of each strap, and drop it down a few inches....
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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i took mine out but then again i chose to use a fuel cell with a attached water tank.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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I have done many cages both mig and tig. If you take your time, control your heat, you "shouldn't" have a problem. I've never dropped a tank for a cage install.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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I welded mine in with the tank in.
I felt like Clint Eastwood was saying "Do you feel lucky punk"
If you have the trap door mod and lower the tank a little you can slide a fire blanket in for safety sake. If I was TIG welding I wouldnt worry about it.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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Every one is different, the question is if a shop burns down a car will they replace all of it.... thats the part I'd worry about. I would almost pay the extra 1 hour of shop time for that Assurance.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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I didnt drop the tank on mine but it did get pretty hot while welding the plates to the floor.
it turns out it is easier to melt the plastic fuel lines under the floor by the drivers foot well when doing a ten point.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
I welded mine in with the tank in.
I felt like Clint Eastwood was saying "Do you feel lucky punk"
If you have the trap door mod and lower the tank a little you can slide a fire blanket in for safety sake. If I was TIG welding I wouldnt worry about it.
I TIG welded the plates in and the one line still caught fire, it was laying right against the floor so no matter what it was going to catch on fire if you got the metal hot enough for a good weld. It looked like there was enough space on those lines but one was actually touching the floor and I didnt catch it.

Whether or not its normal for that line to be there or not I dont know, I just consider myself lucky I seen the black smoke and got it out before it caught more stuff on fire - especially since my garage is attached to my house lol.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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I don't understand why you wouldn't just do it anyways, to be safe. I could see if it was tough maybe some people would be lazy and take a chance, but its a 30 second job..
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pro382d
I didnt drop the tank on mine but it did get pretty hot while welding the plates to the floor.
it turns out it is easier to melt the plastic fuel lines under the floor by the drivers foot well when doing a ten point.

thats only for LT1 cars. LS1 cars have steel line into the engine bay.
I hate welding SFC on LT1 cars, for the same reson
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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Like camaro396 said, when mine was done it was TIG'd and we still took the minute worth of time to drop the tank.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
I tried it leaving the tank in (98s are a royal PITA to get the tank out), it was all going fine until one of the plastic evap lines was a little too close to the floor apparently and caught on fire.

Luckily except for a melted line nothing bad happened but it could have been worse, next time I'll drop the tank
i don't mean to high jack this thread but i was wondering why the 98s are harder?

TIA
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SOLO Z
i don't mean to high jack this thread but i was wondering why the 98s are harder?

TIA
98s the filler tube and metal tank are all one piece, you have to pretty much have the rear end out of the car to get the tank out. The 99+ are a lot easier, but still takes a bit more that 30 seconds, you have a catback, heat shields, upper panhard bar etc.

If I was getting paid to do it the tanks would stay in unless the cutomer wanted to pay extra to remove it, you probably have a lot better chance of messing something up dropping the tank then welding near it.

If you have the time and are unsure of your welding skills I would drop it..
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
but still takes a bit more that 30 seconds, you have a catback, heat shields, upper panhard bar etc.
I was about to say that but I didnt want to get into it, it seemed rather obvious.

The only time I seeing it that quickly was a car that had the exhaust before the axle and most times would have all the shields removed.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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I feel a little more safe when welding the back bars in a 98 or older car. 99 and newer have plastic gas tanks.. Heat, gas and plastic dont go well together . If your not a experienced welder drop the tank
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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My friend caught his car on fire welding in his cage. His car had the trap door not sealed all the way, hit a fuel line, didn't realize it for a few seconds until it started getting hot around his legs, and the whole thing went up. 4 fire extinguishers later it was out, but looked like Brady's car after it caught fire.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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We welded mine without dropping the tank.

I laid underneath the car with a garden hose
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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Just drop the tank down, dont have to take it out. It will almost sit on the rear end.
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