Steel VS Cromoly rollbar?
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Correct on material cost difference, but TIG welding is usually more expensive than MIG welding and that should also factor into the decision.
Derek
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When you go to buy one of those pre-made cages for a 4th gen there are usually 3 types of them. There is that crappy electro-welded whatever junk, the DOM steel ones, and then chromoly. When they say DOM steel, they specifically mean non-chromoly ie: .118-.120 wall. When they use chromoly, they will always refer to it as chromoly irregardless of the process used to bend it.
The point I was trying to make is that a typical 6-8 point cage will only run you near $200 more for chromoly, and you will not EVER find a way to replace ANY component on your car for that kind of money and save that kind of weight. It is the best money you could possibly spend on your car.
The point I was trying to make is that a typical 6-8 point cage will only run you near $200 more for chromoly, and you will not EVER find a way to replace ANY component on your car for that kind of money and save that kind of weight. It is the best money you could possibly spend on your car.
I understand the process of making tubes, I work in the materials engineering department of a suspension/shock company.
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One thing is for sure, I've seen a car with a mild steel cage in it that wasn't TIG welded, and that thing looked like absolute ****. Big piles of weld bead all over the place, total hack job.
Probably the joker that did the job is why I'm sure, but after seeing that once, I'd never take the chance of going that route. TIG is the only way to go.
Another question, madman you probably can answer. When you build a cage in a car, do you usually tack everything in place and then TIG it together? I'm considering taking some welding classes, buying a tubing bender, notcher and a mig and tig welder, and doing my next project myself.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated, if it looks like it will be too much I will probably scrap the idea and have someone do it, but I'm exploring the possibility of doing it myself at this point. Will be a 25.5 if it matters. I have a TON of photo's already to work off of and was going to order a 25.5 spec sheet from SFI to build to.
Probably the joker that did the job is why I'm sure, but after seeing that once, I'd never take the chance of going that route. TIG is the only way to go.
Another question, madman you probably can answer. When you build a cage in a car, do you usually tack everything in place and then TIG it together? I'm considering taking some welding classes, buying a tubing bender, notcher and a mig and tig welder, and doing my next project myself.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated, if it looks like it will be too much I will probably scrap the idea and have someone do it, but I'm exploring the possibility of doing it myself at this point. Will be a 25.5 if it matters. I have a TON of photo's already to work off of and was going to order a 25.5 spec sheet from SFI to build to.
#53
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Just to set things straight guys... From my understanding in engineering/chemistry classes as well as from my father who owns an engineering and design firm, Chromoly isn't actually lighter, however it is stronger so you can use a thinner metal for the same strength... Correct me if I'm wrong guys... ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
When you go to buy one of those pre-made cages for a 4th gen there are usually 3 types of them. There is that crappy electro-welded whatever junk, the DOM steel ones, and then chromoly. When they say DOM steel, they specifically mean non-chromoly ie: .118-.120 wall. When they use chromoly, they will always refer to it as chromoly irregardless of the process used to bend it.
The point I was trying to make is that a typical 6-8 point cage will only run you near $200 more for chromoly, and you will not EVER find a way to replace ANY component on your car for that kind of money and save that kind of weight. It is the best money you could possibly spend on your car.
The point I was trying to make is that a typical 6-8 point cage will only run you near $200 more for chromoly, and you will not EVER find a way to replace ANY component on your car for that kind of money and save that kind of weight. It is the best money you could possibly spend on your car.
As far as mig welding a Mild steel cage, It is acceptable, if you have a machine and weldor capable of doing so. Tig welding will do a slightly superior job strength wise, but it is aesthetics that make it desirable on MILD Steel. Again, that is if the person doing the welding is an Actual weldor, not some hack from billy bobs backyard auto repair...
#55
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Rollbar is in
Collin did an amazing job (as always)
Total weight was 39.2lbs (VS the 67lbs MS one I decided against using) ... so it was worth the investment.
Those removable/swingout bars are awesome, I can get in and out
without unpinning them, but I wouldn't want to deal with that for DDing.
The bars fit neatly in the trunk, next to the Ttop holders.
I ordered the swingout components from cachassisworks, they're extremely well-designed.
I put most of the interior back in today and trimmed the carpet.
I'll go back and do some clean-up work later around the holes so it looks neater.
Driver's side door pics:
Pinned in - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6928jpg.jpg
Swung out - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6931jpg.jpg
Removed - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6932jpg.jpg
View from trunk - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6926jpg.jpg
View back from Driver's door - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6923jpg.jpg
Closeups of kickass welding
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6922jpg.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6935jpg.jpg
![Headbang](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/headbang.gif)
Total weight was 39.2lbs (VS the 67lbs MS one I decided against using) ... so it was worth the investment.
Those removable/swingout bars are awesome, I can get in and out
without unpinning them, but I wouldn't want to deal with that for DDing.
The bars fit neatly in the trunk, next to the Ttop holders.
I ordered the swingout components from cachassisworks, they're extremely well-designed.
I put most of the interior back in today and trimmed the carpet.
I'll go back and do some clean-up work later around the holes so it looks neater.
Driver's side door pics:
Pinned in - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6928jpg.jpg
Swung out - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6931jpg.jpg
Removed - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6932jpg.jpg
View from trunk - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6926jpg.jpg
View back from Driver's door - http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6923jpg.jpg
Closeups of kickass welding
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6922jpg.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6935jpg.jpg
#56
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for most folks only a 5 pt (or 6) is required for our times, so the weight difference for a 6 pt would be very good info to have. especially if it was the wolfes actually weighed as they are the most popular.
edit: looks like james just confirmed
Last edited by STANG KILLA SS 2; 03-06-2009 at 03:03 PM.
#57
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anything to back up this claim?
for most folks only a 5 pt (or 6) is required for our times, so the weight difference for a 6 pt would be very good info to have. especially if it was the wolfes actually weighed as they are the most popular.
edit: looks like james just confirmed
for most folks only a 5 pt (or 6) is required for our times, so the weight difference for a 6 pt would be very good info to have. especially if it was the wolfes actually weighed as they are the most popular.
edit: looks like james just confirmed
#58
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Actually, he is saying that he ONLY TIG welds (and does not MIG) so that is why the cost is the same. YOU are correct in saying that IF a shop MIG's AND TIG's, that normally TIG welding usually cost more than MIG welding (usually)
So, both of you are right
So, both of you are right
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