Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

Why tubes??

studderin

iTrader: (28)

sick of tires losing air.

i6overboard

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried appyling dish wash soap to the side walls before mounting them. This cures most of the problems that we get on the big dragster slicks.

Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

+1 I mount all of my own tires using Dawn or other conventional dish soap to lube the beads while installing the tire on the rim. Out of 20 pair of slicks and radials I've only had one leak, and that was due to a hairline crack in a valve stem.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Dawn worked for a little while, then one would leak. Same with others locally. But been helping on some faster headsup stuff, ran lots of wheel/tire setups. And run tubes. They dont leak any air, after week(s)

Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

I'm not against tubes they just add a lot of rotating mass and slow down a tenth or so from what we've seen.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

ya they are heavy for sure, putting both in one box I think it weights more then a 15x10 rim
You really lost a tenth form tubes? I know about the weight thing, but for some resone I've heard form other tubes didnt really slow the car down, just made it easier to race, more consistent for runs, and making changes, longer tire life. all pro really, and no reason not to run tubes. These are with all the upgrade lightweight driveline, axles, and gears and bearing finishes. You spin the 3rd member yoke, and rear end free spin for a while without wheels.
I know prostocks haven't been running beadlocs for weight for a few years now and thats unlimited budget for max performance. They also cut weight off the tires, I know some have been told not to for safty. haha. I've read on YB about using the hi-tac too, on radials, but thats not going to keep the form leaking. I had my 275s on all last year all street and track driving, no tailor ever last year. With no tubes and screws, and thats fine radials dont leak. But this is for ETdrags

joelster

It's not like they lose 10lbs overnight. It takes weeks for them to drop.

Dickie-311

iTrader: (1)

good read

studderin

iTrader: (28)

losing anything is a pain in the ***, leak 5 pounds or .5 pounds. After one summer the dish soap mount would get low overnight, and had to add air the the track every pass. Then have to add air (again bymeself most of the time) after a cleanup for over a hour a few cars back.

joelster

With my tires (Hoosier QTP's), I pull up to do my first burnout and they are at 12 or so. After the run they are at 15-16 so I have to adjust them. I have to check them after every pass too. They seem to be very sensitive to tire temperature. In your case I understand what a pain it can be, but for 15lbs of unsprung weight it's worth it. Especially someone as weight conscious as you. How many track passes do you make in one day? 5? 6?

My90Iroc

iTrader: (26)

How do you like the MGW?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

not sure if, plaque or non?

black and pink z28

iTrader: (7)

Lid looks bad *** i like to how it performs over a slp or fast toys lid

studderin

iTrader: (28)

never posted this, got it painted finally.

Took a stock truck bracket, early before the DBW. And welded a Fbody cable end, so the stock cable clips in (99-02 non CC and ASR a bought a few years ago $20ish ), drilled the hole for the little lock post to clip into. I didnt what to have to buy a locar or some other 1 off cable setup for one style intake, so got the stock one to work with this intake that dosnt have one to use.

took a 102 TB and added a few more holes spots for the cable barrel end. 2 between the stock one and one more up, so it have 5. This works out great, you can use a hole to get WOT but not have WOT flexing the TB neck on the plastic intakes.




The TB and fuel rails have a some extra metal on them, I think Im gonna turn into chips on the mill table
maybe 1 pound?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Looks good man, you don't miss anything to cut holes in do you lol

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Do you have any specs on your shift light? I like how its in the cluster, but would like some details if you don't mind

Driftunit

iTrader: (5)

I love this man! i think you should keep the plaque for sure. also could you show a couple more angles and maybe a shot of the inside? im impressed, i know its just an air box lid but the welds look great and its got a great shape. Really looks like you took your time when you could have easily cut corners. KUDOS

studderin

iTrader: (28)

I think I posted a few years ago about the shift light, a few pics and what not. Its a just a harland,... took the LED board out of the tube, soiderd wires to that to move it off the dip switch part. (put them on 1/4 spade male/female to pull the cluster) took the cluster apart, put a little grease on the tip of the bulbs and touched them on the back of the bezel were to want it, and drill the holes there. The bulbs to bend a little on the board but you dont want to bend them to much and snap them off. I did the holes so the bulbs press in and that holds them in, might have epoxied them too? Its great in the middle catches your eye, and is really hidden, not to bright it lights the car up. haha only think I would do, is you drill the holes in the clear part, so the normal at night cluster lights you can see in the bulbs a little. I would paint the inside of the holes with some heavy black paint to block that. (the sides of the holes)



thanks man.
should be some inside pics of the lid a few pages ago, check that out. no badge thing after all. iit hits the hood right there, thats what I wanted lol

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Where do you have the dip switch then? I'm going to order a shift light in the next couple weeks since I have the cluster out and I hate pulling that thing out

Thanks for the response man, and keep up the good work. I need to get to cutting on mine