need a help on a base tire psi, shock settings..
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need a help on a base tire psi, shock settings.. car is full weight. nothing has been removed or relocated weight wise.
mcleod rxt clutch with 24lb steel flywheel
4.11 gear
28x10 et drag-standard sidewall
bmr adj lcas in middle hole of relocation bracket (almost level w ground)
slp rear springs
qa1 12 way rear shocks
qa1 12 way r series front shocks w/ 300lb springs
bmr adj t/a at -3
torque arm in top hole on bmr relocation bracket (to clear y pipe)
i need a base for shock settings, tire psi, and launch rpm (6 spd with synergy 2 step) i never go to the track so i want to make as much progress as possible next weekend when i go. here is a dyno graph if that helps at all.
mcleod rxt clutch with 24lb steel flywheel
4.11 gear
28x10 et drag-standard sidewall
bmr adj lcas in middle hole of relocation bracket (almost level w ground)
slp rear springs
qa1 12 way rear shocks
qa1 12 way r series front shocks w/ 300lb springs
bmr adj t/a at -3
torque arm in top hole on bmr relocation bracket (to clear y pipe)
i need a base for shock settings, tire psi, and launch rpm (6 spd with synergy 2 step) i never go to the track so i want to make as much progress as possible next weekend when i go. here is a dyno graph if that helps at all.
I am no six speed guy, but.
I would start with 14-15 lbs in the tires.
Rear shocks 3 clicks from full firm.
Front shocks on 6.
Leave at 4500-5000.
If it bogs, up the leave rpm.
If it "bunny hops" and unloads the rear, tighten up the front shocks.
If it tire shakes, tighten up the rear shocks and air up the tires.
I would start with 14-15 lbs in the tires.
Rear shocks 3 clicks from full firm.
Front shocks on 6.
Leave at 4500-5000.
If it bogs, up the leave rpm.
If it "bunny hops" and unloads the rear, tighten up the front shocks.
If it tire shakes, tighten up the rear shocks and air up the tires.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
I'd say the 13-16 psi range in the tires is a good starting range. You want to start at one end and slowly work your way towards the other side changing only 1 thing at a time if you can. Heavier cars will generally like more psi due to the sidewall flex, but every set-up is different (I know, shocker right?)
Most shock guys would say start in the middle settings, but if you're dropping the hammer hard, I'd say the shock settings at 3 from firm on the back is probably right.
Of course this all depends on track prep and temp, but I'm guessing Bradenton?
Good luck!
Derek
Most shock guys would say start in the middle settings, but if you're dropping the hammer hard, I'd say the shock settings at 3 from firm on the back is probably right.
Of course this all depends on track prep and temp, but I'm guessing Bradenton?
Good luck!
Derek
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ya going to be bradenton next weekend. its a track rental so the prep should be good to go. i hope. so damn thats like 9 on the rear shocks? never would have thought. ill start at 15psi then. also forgot to mention i have a 1" solid rear bar but its not adjustable.
Your rear is adjustable, I made mine adjustable. You can make yours adjustable also.
On the rear shocks, you want it stiff to plant the tire and not to tire shake. If it does tire shake abort the run. Tire shake or chatter as some call it will tear up **** QUICK. You really need a double adjustable shock on the rear of a stick car.
Also on the fronts, I missed they were R shocks, put the compression on 7 or 8 so the nose stays up on the shift.
If you really want that car to hump it needs more gear with that 28 inch tire. Like a 4.88.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Feb 20, 2009 at 06:22 PM.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
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From: in your closet
Your rear is adjustable, I made mine adjustable. You can make yours adjustable also.
On the rear shocks, you want it stiff to plant the tire and not to tire shake. If it does tire shake abort the run. Tire shake or chatter as some call it will tear up **** QUICK. You really need a double adjustable shock on the rear of a stick car.
Also on the fronts, I missed they were R shocks, put the compression on 7 or 8 so the nose stays up on the shift.
If you really want that car to hump it needs more gear with that 28 inch tire. Like a 4.88.
On the rear shocks, you want it stiff to plant the tire and not to tire shake. If it does tire shake abort the run. Tire shake or chatter as some call it will tear up **** QUICK. You really need a double adjustable shock on the rear of a stick car.
Also on the fronts, I missed they were R shocks, put the compression on 7 or 8 so the nose stays up on the shift.
If you really want that car to hump it needs more gear with that 28 inch tire. Like a 4.88.
how would i make it adjustable? as far as the gear im actually steping it down to a 3.73 so i have some more room on the street. the car makes a good bit more power on the nitrous is why i have the larger tire so i can get some topend out of it in 4th gear.
I took my swaybar end link off the left side(mine is stock), knocked the flat washer off and cut 1 inch off the tube. Then knocked the washer back in. I used washer to make it shorter to load the right rear.
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