Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos I had a better day yesterday, working my 60 foot time from 2.283 down to 1.924, and in the process my et from 13.496 to 12.535 with my bolt-on 2000 Z28 M6. I was buring the 315 Nittos (18 PSI) for about 10 sec, at 4-5K in second (4.1 Moser). I have rubber all over the rear quarters 
I started with the 2 step at 4K and worked down to 3K, which produced the 1.924 but it still spun hard. The shift lite came on before it stopped spinning.
I can't feather the clutch. I've never been able to, even when I was young and in practice. The only thing that works for me is to sidestep on the last yellow. Given that, what can I do to get the 60 foot times down? I think 113 MPH isn't bad and I can get better ETs without so much spin. I will drop the two step some more next time, but I am rapidly approaching bog territory.
I have full BMR chassis stuff with the LCAs in the upper hole of the relocation brackets. Stock shocks and springs. Would it help to move the LCAs to the lowest hole?
This is my daily driver, so I am not up for 90/10 front shocks or soft front springs. Are the adjustable shocks OK on the street? Meaning, can they be adjusted for the street and strip both? Will they help? If so, you want the front ones loose and the back stiff?
If I can't get there with Nittos, what tire? I can keep the Nittos for the street - looks pretty good from the back
I have heads & cam to go on over the winter.
I started with the 2 step at 4K and worked down to 3K, which produced the 1.924 but it still spun hard. The shift lite came on before it stopped spinning.I can't feather the clutch. I've never been able to, even when I was young and in practice. The only thing that works for me is to sidestep on the last yellow. Given that, what can I do to get the 60 foot times down? I think 113 MPH isn't bad and I can get better ETs without so much spin. I will drop the two step some more next time, but I am rapidly approaching bog territory.
I have full BMR chassis stuff with the LCAs in the upper hole of the relocation brackets. Stock shocks and springs. Would it help to move the LCAs to the lowest hole?
This is my daily driver, so I am not up for 90/10 front shocks or soft front springs. Are the adjustable shocks OK on the street? Meaning, can they be adjusted for the street and strip both? Will they help? If so, you want the front ones loose and the back stiff?
If I can't get there with Nittos, what tire? I can keep the Nittos for the street - looks pretty good from the back
I have heads & cam to go on over the winter. 
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Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos i allways side step on my nitto's too. i just don't feel like burning up my clutch. what i allways do is drop the clutch at about 3000rpms and then feather the gas for a little while until it stops spinning. then i can lay into it all the way without it spinning. i have cut many, many 1.8's using this method. good luck with you ride
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
i allways side step on my nitto's too. i just don't feel like burning up my clutch. what i allways do is drop the clutch at about 3000rpms and then feather the gas for a little while until it stops spinning. then i can lay into it all the way without it spinning. i have cut many, many 1.8's using this method.
I see you have slicks now. Happy with the Hoosiers? 26" is a better fit in the well than a 28".
Any shock recommendation?
good luck with you ride
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos It's hard to hook much power on nittos by dumping the clutch. I always had to slip it to get any kind on 60'. Yes it's tougher on the clutch but I think it's the best way with these tires. Especially the 17" tires with no side wall.
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
It's hard to hook much power on nittos by dumping the clutch. I always had to slip it to get any kind on 60'. Yes it's tougher on the clutch but I think it's the best way with these tires. Especially the 17" tires with no side wall.
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Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos is your front swaybar still intact? you might try removing that and installing an airbag in the right rear corner.
how much gas do you race with? where's your battery located? how much fluid is in your windshield washer resivoir? empty the resovior and put the battery in the back. (if thats an option) and try launching with 3/4 of a tank. it's all about weight distribution in these cars.
with those things right on your car you should easliy be able to do 1.9-1.8's maybe even a 1.7 on 315 nittos. ;D if not, then get some slicks.
how much gas do you race with? where's your battery located? how much fluid is in your windshield washer resivoir? empty the resovior and put the battery in the back. (if thats an option) and try launching with 3/4 of a tank. it's all about weight distribution in these cars.
with those things right on your car you should easliy be able to do 1.9-1.8's maybe even a 1.7 on 315 nittos. ;D if not, then get some slicks.
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
is your front swaybar still intact? you might try removing that and installing an airbag in the right rear corner.
how much gas do you race with?
where's your battery located?
how much fluid is in your windshield washer resivoir? empty the resovior
with those things right on your car you should easliy be able to do 1.9-1.8's maybe even a 1.7 on 315 nittos. ;D if not, then get some slicks.
i just got the o.f. part of your title.. Old Fart...
60 this year. Last time at the track in a car would have been middle 60's and last time on a bike late 70's. You could say I am out of practice.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos lol! Carl..
mk, well you've got great intentions here, but you're just overlooking some pivotal details.
take off the front sway bar. trust me. that alone is worth at the very least .02 off your 60, and thats w/o any other changes.
try it w/ a bit more than 1/2 a tank of gas. this still pust you in the high octane spark advance table in your Pcm, and betters your weight distribution.
also, empty that washer res! thats 40 LBS on the front of the car! this forward weight distribution takes off pressure from the rear tires and increases wheelspin.
battery re-location kits can be made from parts @ napa, or your local parts store for less than 20$ shut off switches are another story though, personally, i dont want one on my street car. i have a hard enough time getting races as it is, let alone w/ a cage and a mammoth switch on the back of the car. aside from that, if you get into a wreck, an average joe isint gonna know to turn it off anyway.
airbags also help put the transfered weight to the tires, and help you really hammer it out of the hole.
hoosiers are about the stickiest tire you can get. great tire imo. just remember to check you r pressure, and if you ever switch tires, you'll have to tweak your suspension to match that. i'd stick with making the nitto's hook, and if ya cant do that, switch to slicks. ;D
mk, well you've got great intentions here, but you're just overlooking some pivotal details.
take off the front sway bar. trust me. that alone is worth at the very least .02 off your 60, and thats w/o any other changes.
try it w/ a bit more than 1/2 a tank of gas. this still pust you in the high octane spark advance table in your Pcm, and betters your weight distribution.
also, empty that washer res! thats 40 LBS on the front of the car! this forward weight distribution takes off pressure from the rear tires and increases wheelspin.
battery re-location kits can be made from parts @ napa, or your local parts store for less than 20$ shut off switches are another story though, personally, i dont want one on my street car. i have a hard enough time getting races as it is, let alone w/ a cage and a mammoth switch on the back of the car. aside from that, if you get into a wreck, an average joe isint gonna know to turn it off anyway.
airbags also help put the transfered weight to the tires, and help you really hammer it out of the hole.
hoosiers are about the stickiest tire you can get. great tire imo. just remember to check you r pressure, and if you ever switch tires, you'll have to tweak your suspension to match that. i'd stick with making the nitto's hook, and if ya cant do that, switch to slicks. ;D
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Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos Nice driving old man 
The LCAs in the lowest hole will help. You can disconnet the front swaybar if you like but I would probably just leave it on. Right rear airbag is great.
Good luck,
Chris
The LCAs in the lowest hole will help. You can disconnet the front swaybar if you like but I would probably just leave it on. Right rear airbag is great.
Good luck,
Chris
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: N. Central, MA
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos I have the BFG Drag Radials (17psi) and I dump at about 3-4K and my car jumps for a split second then 
I tried a 5K dump and 
there were more noises coming from my car... but the tires did spin then. I can't get my 60's lower than a 2.1???
I tried a 5K dump and there were more noises coming from my car... but the tires did spin then. I can't get my 60's lower than a 2.1??? Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
lol! Carl..
mk, well you've got great intentions here, but you're just overlooking some pivotal details.
take off the front sway bar. trust me. that alone is worth at the very least .02 off your 60, and thats w/o any other changes.
try it w/ a bit more than 1/2 a tank of gas. this still pust you in the high octane spark advance table in your Pcm, and betters your weight distribution.
also, empty that washer res! thats 40 LBS on the front of the car! this forward weight distribution takes off pressure from the rear tires and increases wheelspin.
mk, well you've got great intentions here, but you're just overlooking some pivotal details.
take off the front sway bar. trust me. that alone is worth at the very least .02 off your 60, and thats w/o any other changes.
try it w/ a bit more than 1/2 a tank of gas. this still pust you in the high octane spark advance table in your Pcm, and betters your weight distribution.
also, empty that washer res! thats 40 LBS on the front of the car! this forward weight distribution takes off pressure from the rear tires and increases wheelspin.
battery re-location kits can be made from parts @ napa, or your local parts store for less than 20$ shut off switches are another story though, personally, i dont want one on my street car. i have a hard enough time getting races as it is, let alone w/ a cage and a mammoth switch on the back of the car. aside from that, if you get into a wreck, an average joe isint gonna know to turn it off anyway.
But this is my daily driver, and I don't want a battery in the back.
airbags also help put the transfered weight to the tires, and help you really hammer it out of the hole.
hoosiers are about the stickiest tire you can get. great tire imo. just remember to check you r pressure, and if you ever switch tires, you'll have to tweak your suspension to match that. i'd stick with making the nitto's hook, and if ya cant do that, switch to slicks. ;D
Thanks very much for the advice and "converstation".
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
Nice driving old man
The LCAs in the lowest hole will help. You can disconnet the front swaybar if you like but I would probably just leave it on. Right rear airbag is great.
Good luck,
Chris
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Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos Carl,
the sway bar limits how far the front end can travel. from a very simple engineering standpoint, with the car acting as a lever, this mod effectively mooves the cars pivot point (instant center) further rearward. this helps plant the tires. the more weight you have on them, the more power you can put to the pavement. savvy? leaving it intact limits how far back that point will travel, and in turn your 60' times.
you can score airbags from thunder racing for 39 bucks. great deal imo.. i'd start around 12 or so, and see how your car likes that. every one will react diffrently, so it's just another trial and error deal.
as far as the shocks go, i'm putting the hals up front in mine. the rear x/fers pretty well on it's own, but Competition engineering makes some sweet 3-way adjustable rears are a GREAT option as well, and for the price, i'll try a set of those, but adjustablilty is the key cause i drive mine everyday.
i've seen some floks cut 1.5's on 26" tires, !swaybar, subframes, an airbag and all else suspension stock. this was a cam only car running 11.80's. it's definately there, ya just need to change a few things around. and learn to
best of luck to ya Carl. ;D
the sway bar limits how far the front end can travel. from a very simple engineering standpoint, with the car acting as a lever, this mod effectively mooves the cars pivot point (instant center) further rearward. this helps plant the tires. the more weight you have on them, the more power you can put to the pavement. savvy? leaving it intact limits how far back that point will travel, and in turn your 60' times.
you can score airbags from thunder racing for 39 bucks. great deal imo.. i'd start around 12 or so, and see how your car likes that. every one will react diffrently, so it's just another trial and error deal.
as far as the shocks go, i'm putting the hals up front in mine. the rear x/fers pretty well on it's own, but Competition engineering makes some sweet 3-way adjustable rears are a GREAT option as well, and for the price, i'll try a set of those, but adjustablilty is the key cause i drive mine everyday.
i've seen some floks cut 1.5's on 26" tires, !swaybar, subframes, an airbag and all else suspension stock. this was a cam only car running 11.80's. it's definately there, ya just need to change a few things around. and learn to
best of luck to ya Carl. ;D
Re: Help an O.F. with M6 and Nittos
Carl,
the sway bar limits how far the front end can travel. (snip)
the sway bar limits how far the front end can travel. (snip)
you can score airbags from thunder racing for 39 bucks. great deal imo.. i'd start around 12 or so, and see how your car likes that. every one will react diffrently, so it's just another trial and error deal.
as far as the shocks go, i'm putting the hals up front in mine. the rear x/fers pretty well on it's own, but Competition engineering makes some sweet 3-way adjustable rears are a GREAT option as well, and for the price, i'll try a set of those, but adjustablilty is the key cause i drive mine everyday.
i've seen some floks cut 1.5's on 26" tires, !swaybar, subframes, an airbag and all else suspension stock. this was a cam only car running 11.80's. it's definately there, ya just need to change a few things around. and learn to
BTW, were you yanking my chain with the 40LB of washer fluid? It occurred to me later that since water is 8LB/gallon, that would be 5 gallons
I drained 1 gallon out tonight
best of luck to ya Carl. ;D
For all of you who offered advice:
I LS1Edited the PE table, put in an air bag, removed the front sway bar, drained the winshield washer fluid, dropped the LCAs one hole, and tried to walk into it on launch. In case you don't remember, I have a bolt-on Y2K Z28. No short belt, no LS6 intake, no weight reduction. Anyway, I got the MPH up to 116 and managed to get into the 11s by boiling the Nittos and walking into it on launch. Unfortunately, I couldn't cut a decent light that way, but the 60s were much better. I think that is pretty decent power, so now it is on to the LS6 heads & intake, a 232 Comp cam, and some sticky tires. Oh, and a cage.
Thanks one and all for helping an OF with a dream. My "stock" LS1 is both faster and quicker than my half fiberglass, gutted, 440 inch 409 powered 55 Chev street racer from the mid 60's. It boggles my mind, but I love it!!!
I LS1Edited the PE table, put in an air bag, removed the front sway bar, drained the winshield washer fluid, dropped the LCAs one hole, and tried to walk into it on launch. In case you don't remember, I have a bolt-on Y2K Z28. No short belt, no LS6 intake, no weight reduction. Anyway, I got the MPH up to 116 and managed to get into the 11s by boiling the Nittos and walking into it on launch. Unfortunately, I couldn't cut a decent light that way, but the 60s were much better. I think that is pretty decent power, so now it is on to the LS6 heads & intake, a 232 Comp cam, and some sticky tires. Oh, and a cage
.Thanks one and all for helping an OF with a dream. My "stock" LS1 is both faster and quicker than my half fiberglass, gutted, 440 inch 409 powered 55 Chev street racer from the mid 60's. It boggles my mind, but I love it!!!
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Originally Posted by critter
My "stock" LS1 is both faster and quicker than my half fiberglass, gutted, 440 inch 409 powered 55 Chev street racer from the mid 60's. It boggles my mind, but I love it!!!