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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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Default chasing the intake temp

anyone out there do any bracket racing with the fuel injection set up? I notice that my car doesnt really chase the weather with regards to running quicker or slower. The intake temp seems to be the key with the bracket racing. Let me know your findings...
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Most Fuel Injection cars dont really fall off compared to Carb guys. I'll be honest, going out and racing the combo and logging the weather conditions and e/t, and mph will be your key to winning races.

I know that when I ran my car when the temps went down it gained a little. I never go wrapped up in what the other guy ran, I just ran my race.

I also ran in a bracket that had family cars like a dodge stratus and VW jetta whom the owners would let those things heat soak so they would never fall off, those bastards were hard to beat, but treeing the **** out of them is another advantage you can get.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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What do you mean let them heat soak? I've been bracket racing 3 years now and I run some of those cars also, but most of the time I'm racing full race cars. I have been tracking everything for the last 3 years
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bracketracerZ28
What do you mean let them heat soak? I've been bracket racing 3 years now and I run some of those cars also, but most of the time I'm racing full race cars. I have been tracking everything for the last 3 years
If your running a true bracket, an open bracket and not an index, then racing race cars or not it should be an issue. It really depends on what the rules allow.

As a engine cools of, compared to an engine that has not had at all a chance of cooling down, the colder one if pushed and started at the line may run quicker then average of the runs. The issue will be getting the consistantcy in the thousandths and cutting as close to a perfect light as possible.

People have bought hand held weather track device to figure out the DA and other weather factors and from that you can reference other past runs and their results to really dial in your expected run, that as bout the best info that I can provide.

I would also clarify your question for others to get a better response.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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I appreciate the info. I really try hard to do the same thing every time, and not change anything during the day. It definately comes down to cutting lights and running within hundredths. I run the sportsman class at a couple of tracks here in Az, which is a true bracket class. My brother also runs with me and his car will chase the weather (carb), where mine just won't, and its very frustrating. I have heard lots about speed density tuning and such, but don't know if that is more consistent
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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Like someone else said, you need to log all of your runs. If you don't change anything all day you won't be consistent. If you race at 6pm, your time will be different at 9:30pm. You need to log every run so you can look back at them to see how your car reacted in that particular weather situation. Barometric pressure, humidty, temperature, track temp and intake temp all play a big role (hundredths of a second) in your runs.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Sounds like he's got a very good understanding of how to log runs and understands that the car will run different, whether alot or not, due to different conditions...

bracketracer, I understand your frustration. I'm mostly a bracket racer myself and have watched my buddies dial in there cars very well with the corr ele's while mine just kinda does what it's gonna do. That's why my LS1 has a 750 carb sitting on top of now with a MVB 4l60e. We'll see if I can do a better job dialing with that. Don't get me wrong, our cars in factory trim are deadly consistent, until the one time they decide not to be?!? And with all the tech in the drivetrain alot of time you can't put your finger on it and predict the next round because it ran off completely opposite to what you'd calculate. I know, I know, now I'm ranting on, but when it's the Q-finals and you're uncertain about your number it's like using the search on the website... who knows what the hell's gonna pop up on the screen.
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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your right on! our e.t. finals series is in Arizona this year so when that is done, I'm putting a carb on it. Can you give me some insight to what is involved with that? Am I completely taking the computer out of the equation, cause it sounds like you are still using the 4l60?
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...rediction.html

Here's my build thread that's still currently going. I've eliminated the PCM completely. The 4l60e is completely built with manual valve body and vacuum modulator. There are a good many little devils that go with eliminating the PCM in these cars but I think it's worth it.

I'd be happy to share any info I've got with you.

EDIT: Sorry, I didn't realize that you'd posted over in my thread.

Last edited by Nabdrill; Mar 6, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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Did you just go with an msd for the engine controls? Taking away the stock pcm, does that affect all of the dash electronics, door locks, window locks etc?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Door locks, windows, etc... no, all that comes off the body harness. Guage cluster... yes, those guages take 5 volts from the PCM to work. It's not bad to wire around it to get everything to work but you will have to get aftermarket guages for volts, oil psi, and temp. You have to make a jumper wire for the ignition, fuel pumps, and fans as well. I've got all the schematics at home, my friend and I plan on wiring everything either this weekend coming or the next one.

I plan on doing a write-up for what all has to be done... as far as I know one doesn't exist.
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