10sec Camaro build project
jl has given a TON of real good advice
Here, fixed it for you:
Weld Pro Stars $800
Tires - $800
Heads/cam kit - $3500
Adj. Panhard – $140
Rear control arms - $170
Extreme Torque arm - $700
Subframes $200
Driveshaft loop - $100
1 7/8 LTH - $700
Battery relocate with bumper kill - $200
SLP Flo pac - $280
85mm MAF - $150
92mm FAST intake and TB package - $1200 (flow matched to heads??)
6 Point weld in Chromemoly cage - $500
Monster Clutch with new slave, and SFI Fly-$800
TICK Adj MC-$300
YOUR total was $23570
Mine was $10540
I just saved you $13,000. Yes, your setup will net ALOT more than a 10.99,and will last longer with the better parts, BUT, you were pretty adamant in that you wanted a 10.99 NA, so I got ya there, on the cheap is what I was doing.
Weld Pro Stars $800
Tires - $800
Heads/cam kit - $3500
Adj. Panhard – $140
Rear control arms - $170
Extreme Torque arm - $700
Subframes $200
Driveshaft loop - $100
1 7/8 LTH - $700
Battery relocate with bumper kill - $200
SLP Flo pac - $280
85mm MAF - $150
92mm FAST intake and TB package - $1200 (flow matched to heads??)
6 Point weld in Chromemoly cage - $500
Monster Clutch with new slave, and SFI Fly-$800
TICK Adj MC-$300
YOUR total was $23570
Mine was $10540
I just saved you $13,000. Yes, your setup will net ALOT more than a 10.99,and will last longer with the better parts, BUT, you were pretty adamant in that you wanted a 10.99 NA, so I got ya there, on the cheap is what I was doing.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
From: Way the hell in front of you
I'm going to address things from your list, not in any specific order:
SLP Flo pac - $280, 85mm MAF - $150 skip both of these. I have a stock untouched maf on my car and it will go 10.50 all day long n/a at 3500 lbs... no need for either of those they won't make enough of a difference for the $ Or, tune the car SD and ditch the maf completely, which is the best option to do, and sell the old maf.
Solid motor mounts - $150 Just put a set of poly ones in that will be enough.
STB - $100 Waste. Don't put it on it's dead weight
12 bolt with TCS/ABS - $2500 If you ditch the tcs/abs and go with a spool you can save enough $ to buy the manual master cyl and the line parts you need to ditch the power brakes, good weight reduction, cleans the engine bay up and the rear will be stronger with the spool, and it will be a better track part.
LS7 7.0L Block - $2600 If you were to build a 418 with a 6.2 block you can get the block for over a grand less then this, saving ya some good $
Heads/cam kit - $2000 No way. If you only spend 2 grand on the heads and cam it's not gonna make any steam. Take the grand you didn't spend on the block, and budget 3000 for the heads, and figure 450 for a cam by the time you're done. Trust me on this, the power is gonna coem from the cubes, and the heads and cam. Buy the absolute best heads you can afford, and don't be afraid to go big on the cam, something in the high 240's to low 250's for duration. The CI will swallow up alot of the cam and make it livable.
Electric Cutout x2 - $190ea Don't bother. BUild a dual setup on the car and you won't need to bother with the cutouts. I did a 3.5 inch dual setup with a pair of 44 series flowmaster mufflers, no x or h pipe, but with 2 3.5 inch pipes, the restriction is very little.
Corbeau TRS seats - $700 As nice as these seats are, you can buy a pair of kirkey's with the covers for less then 1/2 of that, mount them right on the floor so you don't have to spend the $ on brackets, support them off the back stocck studs and the rollbar and they're pretty comfortable, and are about 1/2 the weight. Good and easy way to save weght and $. Plus the corbeau's are IMO, a little
: They've just been put in so many cars I am at the point I hate seeing them.
If you need any more feedback, please ask. What you want to do is more then doable, and with the feedback on your list I probably just chopped a couple grand off it, which you could use for a full drag brake setup, which would ditch a good 100 lbs off the car. Little racy for street use, but if you're careful you coudl still go to a car show here and there with them.
SLP Flo pac - $280, 85mm MAF - $150 skip both of these. I have a stock untouched maf on my car and it will go 10.50 all day long n/a at 3500 lbs... no need for either of those they won't make enough of a difference for the $ Or, tune the car SD and ditch the maf completely, which is the best option to do, and sell the old maf.
Solid motor mounts - $150 Just put a set of poly ones in that will be enough.
STB - $100 Waste. Don't put it on it's dead weight
12 bolt with TCS/ABS - $2500 If you ditch the tcs/abs and go with a spool you can save enough $ to buy the manual master cyl and the line parts you need to ditch the power brakes, good weight reduction, cleans the engine bay up and the rear will be stronger with the spool, and it will be a better track part.
LS7 7.0L Block - $2600 If you were to build a 418 with a 6.2 block you can get the block for over a grand less then this, saving ya some good $
Heads/cam kit - $2000 No way. If you only spend 2 grand on the heads and cam it's not gonna make any steam. Take the grand you didn't spend on the block, and budget 3000 for the heads, and figure 450 for a cam by the time you're done. Trust me on this, the power is gonna coem from the cubes, and the heads and cam. Buy the absolute best heads you can afford, and don't be afraid to go big on the cam, something in the high 240's to low 250's for duration. The CI will swallow up alot of the cam and make it livable.
Electric Cutout x2 - $190ea Don't bother. BUild a dual setup on the car and you won't need to bother with the cutouts. I did a 3.5 inch dual setup with a pair of 44 series flowmaster mufflers, no x or h pipe, but with 2 3.5 inch pipes, the restriction is very little.
Corbeau TRS seats - $700 As nice as these seats are, you can buy a pair of kirkey's with the covers for less then 1/2 of that, mount them right on the floor so you don't have to spend the $ on brackets, support them off the back stocck studs and the rollbar and they're pretty comfortable, and are about 1/2 the weight. Good and easy way to save weght and $. Plus the corbeau's are IMO, a little
: They've just been put in so many cars I am at the point I hate seeing them.If you need any more feedback, please ask. What you want to do is more then doable, and with the feedback on your list I probably just chopped a couple grand off it, which you could use for a full drag brake setup, which would ditch a good 100 lbs off the car. Little racy for street use, but if you're careful you coudl still go to a car show here and there with them.
Thanks to the others as well - I promised myself that I would build a motor the "right" way one day, even if it is a bit pricey.
-------------------------------------------------
The only thing is that I want to be able to still take it to the track OFF of a trailer, which requires expressway driving.
I know myself and 10.99 will NOT be good enough, once it's hit - and although I am not building a NOS motor, I can see it happening.
The cutouts would be to tone it down on the street, since I would like to hit car shows as well.
I am going to revise the list a bit, maybe today, and we will see where it sits.
This hardcore of an application is still newer to me, so I will have dumb questions I am sure.
My primary concern is that I can take it on the highway once and a while - even if this means I have to take it down a notch.
Let me know what you all think.
Thanks in advance
Nick
Breaking stuff costs money and eats up a race season in a hurry.
The re-occuring theme you see in most "I broke something" threads are:
A) Done on the cheap
B) Hoped stock part X would last longer than it did.
with our build we're trying to do it cam only. first it went.....
ms3 cam
full bolt ons and a 3" true dual out the back
28" slicks
tune
92/92
spec 3+ and tick m/c.
say that combo's what, 5 grand for everything? depending on where you spend your money?
EVERYTHING else stock.
took it to the track. broke the rear. didnt move an inch off the line.
now add:
midwest 4.30's w/ locker
arb
lca's
long t/a
strange single adj on all 4 corners, 275 springs on the front
motor mounts
sfc's
d/s and loop
came out to a little over 5 grand. ordered it a month ago and it just shipped today.
oh and weight reduction.
should be good for 10.99 no?
ms3 cam
full bolt ons and a 3" true dual out the back
28" slicks
tune
92/92
spec 3+ and tick m/c.
say that combo's what, 5 grand for everything? depending on where you spend your money?
EVERYTHING else stock.
took it to the track. broke the rear. didnt move an inch off the line.
now add:
midwest 4.30's w/ locker
arb
lca's
long t/a
strange single adj on all 4 corners, 275 springs on the front
motor mounts
sfc's
d/s and loop
came out to a little over 5 grand. ordered it a month ago and it just shipped today.
oh and weight reduction.
should be good for 10.99 no?
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Brett Foote honesty, i'd say build the car first, then the motor. because you're gonna spend the cash as soon as you drop the motor in everything behind its gonna give up.
i'd say do bolt ons or even a cam only setup (and keep your motor build in mind when buying bolt ons.) and build the drivetrain behind it and KNOW its gonna last a good 2 years til you have to bother with messing with most stuff. you'll really get a feel for what the car likes and doesnt like and you'll be able to take that combo as far as possible. then whenever you're done with the motor drop it in and run in the 9's.
i'd say do bolt ons or even a cam only setup (and keep your motor build in mind when buying bolt ons.) and build the drivetrain behind it and KNOW its gonna last a good 2 years til you have to bother with messing with most stuff. you'll really get a feel for what the car likes and doesnt like and you'll be able to take that combo as far as possible. then whenever you're done with the motor drop it in and run in the 9's.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
From: Way the hell in front of you
Hey bud!
Yeah I am still in Chicago. I have been staying away from the "street" game for fear I will go into severe debt to build a car by this summer
What are you driving now?
Yeah I am still in Chicago. I have been staying away from the "street" game for fear I will go into severe debt to build a car by this summer
What are you driving now?
