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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 98blueSScamaro
That is what i was thinking. So i am trying to time the clutch and gas just right. i really hope to get this down pat soon and as aways thanx for the help alex

Rob
Thats called practice and living at the track during the summer and putting 200+ passes on the car. For some, we do not have that luxury. Pre-loading = Slipping and it is one of those things where you do it enough or incorrectly and your replacing clutches and the intervals will certainly be closer.

All cars are different and due to the power, suspension, tires, and race weight, some feel like they know what works for all cars but in general we know about the cars we race.

Take it for what it is, learn what your car likes and go with it. My heavy car likes a high rpm dump to get it out of it's own way.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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on my car a dump= a poor 60 fast slip= low 1.60's i just need to get my head out of my *** and stop thinking it the setup when it prob the driver
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #23  
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ummmmmm 98blue..... a 1.6 is a poor 60ft.............. Get the suspension set up decent, put in a gear and tire that will work together (lots of people have given you recomendations that will work), and drop the clutch and go. Part of the problem is with the lack of dropping the clutch. ET Streets/drags need a shock factor to get them to work. You need to shock the tires and have a suspension that plants the tires in the ground. If you don't do either than your just going to spin.

Hell I drop the clutch at 6K on the bottle and hook enough to pull 1.40's with a heavy *** car with 28's. With 26 et streets I spin but it still goes 1.50's
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TAGOES11S
ummmmmm 98blue..... a 1.6 is a poor 60ft.............. Get the suspension set up decent, put in a gear and tire that will work together (lots of people have given you recomendations that will work), and drop the clutch and go. Part of the problem is with the lack of dropping the clutch. ET Streets/drags need a shock factor to get them to work. You need to shock the tires and have a suspension that plants the tires in the ground. If you don't do either than your just going to spin.

Hell I drop the clutch at 6K on the bottle and hook enough to pull 1.40's with a heavy *** car with 28's. With 26 et streets I spin but it still goes 1.50's
AND YES you are right i want a 1.4x so bad


everytime i drop it will blow the tires off or just bog bad suspension wise i am set to 0 on the front shocks and 5 to 4 at times on the rears with my spohn anti roll bar set on kill

What else can i do ??? with the 26 setup i really think i can get it to work. i am putting the gear in next week 4.56 with the 28 so not much time left to play with my setup i have right know.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #25  
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Rob i would say just wait till the new setup is done then go back and test ......

i really dont know to many 26' M6's out there that are working well
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ndfrsd6
Rob i would say just wait till the new setup is done then go back and test ......

i really dont know to many 26' M6's out there that are working well
I know but i want to go fast

but if i was really smart i would just put a auto in it right chris lol but i cant give up i am to into my m6 no matter how mad it makes me.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:03 PM
  #27  
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The ball game will completely change with 4:56 and 28's. The problem with 26's and 3:89 and a high rpm drop is you get way too much initial wheel spin and it blowes the smaller tires off. a 4:33 or better yet a 4:56 will slow that initial wheel speed down to a managable level. Plus you then have a much taller tire than can take the shock with a lot more side wall flex.

Please post pics of your wheelies!

What torque arm do you have? I was snapping my Spohn once I put 28's and 4:33's. Broke 3 in 8 passes. So far no problems with the UMI torque arm.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:07 PM
  #28  
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Hey, i'll be just down to the street from you on Thursday. Going to speedinc for a tune.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #29  
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Default on a very similar note....



me and my buddy just finished up a similar cam only car(MS3, 445WHP). its full suspension (MWC 9, etc), minimal weight reduction, 4.30s, 28" qtp's, M6, ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL. so far, the best 60' is a 1.6, but most were 1.7's. ALL have been bogging HARD launching at 6400.


http://www.motorgen.com/pic/data/834/IMG_0033.JPG

there is a large image of the launch. that was a 1.71 60'.

QUESTIONS: is the flywheel hurting us that bad? what else can we do? i thought of putting more timing in it down low, obviously launching it harder, and doing a little weight reduction. can someone explain the art of slipping a clutch like this (spec 3+)?
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TAGOES11S
The ball game will completely change with 4:56 and 28's. The problem with 26's and 3:89 and a high rpm drop is you get way too much initial wheel spin and it blowes the smaller tires off. a 4:33 or better yet a 4:56 will slow that initial wheel speed down to a managable level. Plus you then have a much taller tire than can take the shock with a lot more side wall flex.

Please post pics of your wheelies!

What torque arm do you have? I was snapping my Spohn once I put 28's and 4:33's. Broke 3 in 8 passes. So far no problems with the UMI torque arm.
LOL funnie you should ask i had the old umi tq arm and sent it right throw the floor in 3parts





But they sent me there new updated one and its been working good so far and i will post the vid and pics of how hard she takes off with the 28 and 4.56 gear n/p i cant wait (a little slap happy) And thanx for the time and help

Rob
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by kmracer


me and my buddy just finished up a similar cam only car(MS3, 445WHP). its full suspension (MWC 9, etc), minimal weight reduction, 4.30s, 28" qtp's, M6, ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL. so far, the best 60' is a 1.6, but most were 1.7's. ALL have been bogging HARD launching at 6400.


http://www.motorgen.com/pic/data/834/IMG_0033.JPG

there is a large image of the launch. that was a 1.71 60'.

QUESTIONS: is the flywheel hurting us that bad? what else can we do? i thought of putting more timing in it down low, obviously launching it harder, and doing a little weight reduction. can someone explain the art of slipping a clutch like this (spec 3+)?
A heavy flywheel helps with getting out of the hole but what rpm is he leaving at and that looks like a 28 tire on his car is it
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #32  
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Yes that torque arm looks exactly like the ones I've broke.

KM, A steel flywheel is a lot of rotating mass that will help the car from bogging. What was the Torque #'s. on the dyno. Heavy 6speed cars have a hard time with 28's unless you make real good power.

A solution is to add a 100 shot of spray. The torque you get from the spray will make the car come out HARD with that combo.

Otherwise take a little traction away and let it spin a little to keep the rpms up. Tighten front shocks a little, more air preasure in rear tires, etc
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Thats called practice and living at the track during the summer and putting 200+ passes on the car. For some, we do not have that luxury. Pre-loading = Slipping and it is one of those things where you do it enough or incorrectly and your replacing clutches and the intervals will certainly be closer.

All cars are different and due to the power, suspension, tires, and race weight, some feel like they know what works for all cars but in general we know about the cars we race.

Take it for what it is, learn what your car likes and go with it. My heavy car likes a high rpm dump to get it out of it's own way.
No need to live at the track all Summer... I put zero passes on my car during the summer. But over the last 8 years, there is probobly close to 450 passes on the car in all various stages and setups.

Every car IS different, but the basic idea of lanunching a car is the same. You may say your car works best with a dump, Im willing to put money on it, that if you have a good clutch, I can get it to 60' better with a quick slip. A GOOD CLUTCH is the main part here, if you have a **** clutch that can not stand the heat, it will not work.

Why do you think cars with a Soft-Lok are faster than those with a twin? Why is the fastest 6spd LS1 use a slipper clutch and not a hard core, supper grabby multi disk? Simple, a slip on the launc will keep you in the RPM band and you will leave the line with more power.

Originally Posted by 98blueSScamaro
on my car a dump= a poor 60 fast slip= low 1.60's i just need to get my head out of my *** and stop thinking it the setup when it prob the driver
Unfortunatly it is usualy the driver. But the good thing is, it will cost you nothing other than a few entry fees to the track to change that. All it is, is practice.

Originally Posted by ndfrsd6
Rob i would say just wait till the new setup is done then go back and test ......

i really dont know to many 26' M6's out there that are working well
My car in 2005 went 10.72 @ 128 with 4:11's and 26x10.5 15 ET Drags with a 1.40 60' - 396HP [CARTEK Stage 2 Ported 853's + 218 222, .568 Cam + 75 wet shot]

1.40 60' for a 3500lbs car with only 450hp on the bottle is not bad with a 26" slick. It can be done..

Once again, slipping the clutch.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by WS6TransAm01
No need to live at the track all Summer... I put zero passes on my car during the summer. But over the last 8 years, there is probobly close to 450 passes on the car in all various stages and setups.

Every car IS different, but the basic idea of lanunching a car is the same. You may say your car works best with a dump, Im willing to put money on it, that if you have a good clutch, I can get it to 60' better with a quick slip. A GOOD CLUTCH is the main part here, if you have a **** clutch that can not stand the heat, it will not work.

Why do you think cars with a Soft-Lok are faster than those with a twin? Why is the fastest 6spd LS1 use a slipper clutch and not a hard core, supper grabby multi disk? Simple, a slip on the launc will keep you in the RPM band and you will leave the line with more power.



Unfortunatly it is usualy the driver. But the good thing is, it will cost you nothing other than a few entry fees to the track to change that. All it is, is practice.



My car in 2005 went 10.72 @ 128 with 4:11's and 26x10.5 15 ET Drags with a 1.40 60' - 396HP [CARTEK Stage 2 Ported 853's + 218 222, .568 Cam + 75 wet shot]

1.40 60' for a 3500lbs car with only 450hp on the bottle is not bad with a 26" slick. It can be done..

Once again, slipping the clutch.

You should have never said that know i want to go to the track to make a ton of passes to get my 60 down 1.40 dammit i am sucking
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #35  
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And also my dyno numbers were made on a mustange dyno 436 & 388
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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I pull the wheels and the car just jumps out and goes. not alot of spin here if any. I dump the clutch off a two step.I never bog or spin alot,u can see my timeslips with my low 1.4 60's on it n/a. I love these guys who say get 28'' and more gear m6 don't cut it with 26''. I cut 1.42 on 26'' tires and with the new changes I'm making the shop tells me I should hit high 1.3's n/a,still on a 26'' slick. we'll see next trip. 98BLUESS- I Street drive my car alot on the stock size rims and tires.thays why I don't go over 4.11's in the rear,1,800rpm's at 70mph. more gear and I kill what i'm out for. If you are more race/track gear and tire up. U need to mess with it more ti'll you find what works for your car. goodluck to ya.

Last edited by mike c.; Jun 2, 2009 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 98blueSScamaro
LOL funnie you should ask i had the old umi tq arm and sent it right throw the floor in 3parts

But they sent me there new updated one and its been working good so far and i will post the vid and pics of how hard she takes off with the 28 and 4.56 gear n/p i cant wait (a little slap happy) And thanx for the time and help

Rob
You need me to video tape that for ya
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mike c.
I pull the wheels and the car just jumps out and goes. not alot of spin here. I love these guys who say get 28'' and more gear m6 don't cut it with 26''. I cut 1.42 on 26'' tires and with the new changes I'm making the shop tells me I should hit high 1.3's n/a,still on a 26'' slick. we'll see next trip. 98BLUESS- I Street drive my car alot on the stock size rims and tires.thays why I don't go over 4.11's in the rear,1,800rpm's at 70mph. more gear and I kill what i'm out for. If you are more race/track gear and tire up. goodluck to ya.
I drive the paints off my car it's in the parking lot right know here at my work and i drive it to all the tracks i got to and every track i go to is no less then 70miles away at least
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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I forgot my bud blue6speed dumps it too. he has the same tire and rear and he 60's 1.51 to 1.55. his car is heavier then mine and makes less power too. there is no right or wrong way,you need to just learn your car. also,I never had great luck with m/t tires on my car(some think they are the best)for me,they just didn't cut it. the m&h racemaster 26'' cheeter slick out hooked the m/t tire on my car big time. I'm ready for a new set myself. www.intercotire.com maybe they will do better for you too.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mike c.
I forgot my bud blue6speed dumps it too. he has the same tire and rear and he 60's 1.51 to 1.55. his car is heavier then mine and makes less power too. there is no right or wrong way,you need to just learn your car. also,I never had great luck with m/t tires on my car(some think they are the best)for me,they just didn't cut it. the m&h racemaster 26'' cheeter slick out hooked the m/t tire on my car big time. I'm ready for a new set myself. www.intercotire.com maybe they will do better for you too.
So what is your cars setup ???? and your buddys
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