joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Just the basics, AIR, EGR, LT's, catback, spare tire, jack, try to run the tank around 1/4, glass hood, no subs or anything like that, no crap in the car.

It's probably at full weight or a bit more with SFC's and stuff.

My blower is heavy I know.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

So you have the "stock" torque arm in the car?
If so that's gotta go. Stock piece just flexes and gives away any chance of transferring weight to the rear tires. I watched your vid, no weight transfer whatsoever.
What's gonna lift the front end if your major connection from the rear end to the front of the car is made of cardboard?
Loose front shocks and a good torque arm is what I think you need right now. I'd like to see a 15" tire back there but since that's not your thing you should start with the other stuff first.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The tq arm needs to get upgraded, shocks need to be done as well.

The vette guys are running a 305/35/18 version of the et radial, is that the same tire you are on?

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Got a PM from Madman, he recommends a torque arm so I can adjust the instant center and double adjustable shocks. He sais my setup will be "touchy".

I also was looking at my control arms last night, I put a level on them, fairly steep downward angle. Is that angle partly responsible for me hitting the tires so hard and just losing weight transfer? With the rim and tire combo I have, I don't think I need to be hitting them so hard.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

An adjustable TA will help you set pinion angle correctly. It is also alot stronger taking the flex out of your suspension, helping you plant the tires better.

Yes you can get a better 60ft with the wheels and tires you have. Take the blower off. You arent going to dead hook 500+rwtq on a drag radial with no sidewall. I understand other guys have done it although ive never seen it. But those guys have their cars and you have yours, no two cars are alike, the make different power, have different suspension, different drivers, different weight ect.

I know you probably are tired of hearing guys telling you that you need more sidewall but its the truth, it will improve your 60fts.

Do you have any vids of your burnout?

You never mentioned if you leave the front swaybar on? I went from a 1.9-2.0 60ft. to a 1.7 60ft by removing the front sway and burning out in second, and im still getting my suspension dialed in.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

That will help you out alot, IIRC the lcas should be at a down slope from teh car to the rear, ive been told 2* or better is good.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I would be slower in the 60 and 1/4 without the blower, why take it off? That's just crazy.

My burnouts are good, I heat them up per Mickey Thompsons instructions. Never removed the front sway bar, I might try that. I've been doing 2nd gear burnouts all along

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

They were running the BFG drag radials. I was on those too awhile ago, but am now on Mickey Thompson ET streets

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Im saying take it off and you will have less power, It would probably improve your 60fts because you wouldnt be spinning but im sure your quarter mile times would suffer alot. Ofcourse thats not what I would do

That front swaybar is a huge part of your problem. When you launch it is trying to lift your front tires but wont let the body lift off the front tires and transfer the weight, after hearing that Id say put an adjustable TA, take your front sway off, check your pinion and lca angle and you will probably cut some 1.6s pretty easily.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

man my suspension sucks, stock springs and shocks with 120k miles on them. only thing I have is the adj torque arm, adj lca's and sfc's and I cut 1.62's, I do however have 28x11.5x15 hoosier qtp's which is pretty much the only reason I cut those times, that and I leave at 6k rpm. the front pops in the air and right back down pulling the front left a couple of in off the ground. My weight transfer sucks *****, oh, I forgot to mention its also a convertible. :-)

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

I just saw your car is lowered, you need an adj torque arm along with an adj phb if you want your rear to be set up correct. I am not famialiar with the blower, but the combination of those shims you were talking about and your car being lowered might have your pin angle out of wack

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Today I looked at my LCA's, I had a pretty extreme downward angle which I was able to verify with a bubble level. I went to the upper hole on the antisquat bracket. I also ordered a UMI torqe arm, hardware, and angle finder from WS6store.com, those guys are always awesome BTW. I'll probably install it this weekend and see about hitting the track next weekend. If this **** doesn't cut my 60's some, I'm going to be pretty aggravated. I don't think I'm ready to remove the front sway bar yet. That would just be too much change at once.

My setup isn't going to cut awesome 60 foots I know, I'm just trying to optimize what I have currently. I would be pretty stoked with a 1.75.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Honestly man, come on. All you need to do is remove the end links, a 13mm wrench and socket IIRC, your car can not transfer weight with the front sway on, ask ProStockJohn, ask MADMAN, they are going to tell you the same thing. You will have no problem hitting a 1.75 with the sway off, id be surprised if you were higher than a 1.65 with it off and the amount of torque you are putting to the wheels.

98blueSScamaro

iTrader: (14)

Look's to me A: your 18's are not helping m6 cars need side wall and with the power your car makes may want to try a 26x10x15 but it will still rip the tire had with the tq your making. B: M6 cars like a good rear drag bar in the rear helps alot as others have said C: The m6 takes alot of seat time to get right and to find if your car likes a fast slip off the line or high rpm dump. D: Loss the shocks and lowering springs and get some S/A Qa1's or strange shocks front and rear set your ride hight about half a inch lower then stock in the front with a 300lbs spring only cuz your car sounds like it weights more then 3200. And get a set of stock rear springs or v6 springs and do the heat hose mod, then set the rear shocks to about 5 clicks in. and fronts to 3 and work your way down from there. E: the t/q arm get a good one i snaped two umi's and with your tq you will find the weak link in your setup with a m6 cuz they are hard on parts.

Iknow its easy to just say do this do that and buy this and buy that but with your setup and power its not going to be that easy.

But i really think you can get the car a better 60 if you slip it harder out of the hole and try working on shifting faster cuz that is holding you back some as well and have you found were it likes to be shifted at????

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Allright, like I said, I'll give that a shot too later this year. I'm not trying to make TOO many changes at once. I'll get the flimsy torque arm off, get angles right, see how that does. Week after that, I'll pull the front sway and see how she does then as well.

All the advice and tips are great.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

road racey stuff isnt good for weight transfer.

shocks and springs baby! strange adjutables, with 300 lb springs. make sure the coil overs are cranked up, you dont want the car to have to work to raise the nose. you want it to pop up.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

If you are over 500RWHP and you can't hit a simple 11 sec pass, you just might be faster in the 1/4 without it. I've seen much less power make much faster times. You are just overpowering your suspension and tires.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Dude, I'm not over 500 RWHP without the blower.

11 second passes aren't so simple when you're at 6800 DA either. Why don't you come to Colorado and give it a shot?

Best time before the blower, full bolt-on, 13.7

With blower 12.4

I'm confident I could hit 11's with some suspension tuning even at this crazy altitude.

Took a little trip after adjusting the LCA's to the middle hole, car seemed to push harder on the street but we'll see at the track.

I'm thinking about some 300 lb. springs to go with this coil-over setup.

UMI told me today that some 300lb.ers and their adjustable torque arm set up properly would give me a totally different car as far as launch is concerned.

FWIW also, you can't change shocks on a ground control coil-over setup without having to change the sleeves on the fronts, the setups are made based upon the shock you are running. I'm not sure I'm ready to go to some different shocks at this time so I'm kind of stuck with this right now. I should be able to swap the 440#er's with 300#er's.

I will continue to build my suspension and dial it in one piece at a time. If I can get this to hook on 18's and run 1.7 in the 60' with this setup, then just imagine when I finally pop for some slicks and runners on 15"s and some 3.73's or 4.10's in an S60!

Tweaking what I have, making minor adjustments and testing them are going to give me slower results, but I'm going to learn how to launch this thing and set it up and become better overall and learn about this car.

Thanks for all the help guys, you all are pretty much saying the same thing. I'll keep you guys updated.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

I'd lose the sway before I went back out, but thats just me. I would think that with all these little changes you make and dial it in the way it sits, THEN you remove the front sway bar you will be back to square one trying to dial it in all over again

01sscam

I race in new mexico where it is 8000+ DA. And I'll tell you right now, an eleven second pass with that kind of power and torque should not be a problem whatsoever. I do it on motor every weekend. That sway bar absolutely needs to come off. You also would be better off with the stock shocks and springs rather than the autocross crap. As far as the tires go, my best 60 ft with an 18" wheel with 305/35/18 bfg drag radials was a 1.74.