UMI or Wolfe Drag Bar?
If the bracket is a concern to anyone we will include a heavier-duty bracket. We have not had any issues with it... the bar has been in design for a year and most of that time was going down the track with no issues.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Hope that helps!
Ryan
The billet aluminum brackets are shown here by the red sway bar bushings.
A rear sway bar twists a lot under a hard launch. It is not just the ends moving up and down. The whole bar twists and contorts. The sway bar saddles see a large force and will cause a large deflection if the saddles are weak.
Remember, a rear axle is a propeller and the drivetrain is trying to twist it out the car. The more powerful the engine, the more torque load applied by the driveshaft to the rear axle assembly. The job of the sway bar is to counter that torque load and try to plant both tires equally.
High engine torque plus gear multiplication plus sticky tires equals extreme forces on the sway bar. BMR should know. We have hundreds of customers in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Just look at the results from the last 2 LSX ShootOuts. BMR customer cars won 3 of the 4 classes in 2007.
I can understand how other suspension companies with less drag racing experience than BMR would not know that the stronger sway bar saddles are necessary. This is the type of knowledge that comes from years of track testing.
Although I will say I was very happy the last time I checked Summit and saw BMR and UMI stuff for sale.Also makes you wonder how weld on bushing mounts benefit vs the U-bolt style.
-Dustin-
I'm sure the drag sway bar that you have will improve your 60 foot times. The question is whether each racer would rather spend an extra $70 to knock off a couple of hundredths from their 60 foot time. I wish we could offer the BMR drag bar kit at the same price, but the brackets are CNC machined from billet and anodized afterwards.
The BMR Extreme drag sway bar works well on 10 and 11 second cars also.
I'm sure the drag sway bar that you have will improve your 60 foot times. The question is whether each racer would rather spend an extra $70 to knock off a couple of hundredths from their 60 foot time. I wish we could offer the BMR drag bar kit at the same price, but the brackets are CNC machined from billet and anodized afterwards.
I'm sure the drag sway bar that you have will improve your 60 foot times. The question is whether each racer would rather spend an extra $70 to knock off a couple of hundredths from their 60 foot time. I wish we could offer the BMR drag bar kit at the same price, but the brackets are CNC machined from billet and anodized afterwards.
My car goes consistant low 1.3's with a best of 1.31 on the STOCK rear sway bar. How would your bar improve my 60' times? Just wondering if I had anything to gain by going to you guys or just call Wolfe for a drag bar setup.
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If your car has any body roll at all our bar will eliminate it. By doing that your car becomes more consistant. The end links basically connect the rear end to the frame and eliminate the separation that occurs even with a stock sway bar.
The billet aluminum brackets are shown here by the red sway bar bushings.
A rear sway bar twists a lot under a hard launch. It is not just the ends moving up and down. The whole bar twists and contorts. The sway bar saddles see a large force and will cause a large deflection if the saddles are weak.
Remember, a rear axle is a propeller and the drivetrain is trying to twist it out the car. The more powerful the engine, the more torque load applied by the driveshaft to the rear axle assembly. The job of the sway bar is to counter that torque load and try to plant both tires equally.
High engine torque plus gear multiplication plus sticky tires equals extreme forces on the sway bar. BMR should know. We have hundreds of customers in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Just look at the results from the last 2 LSX ShootOuts. BMR customer cars won 3 of the 4 classes in 2007.
I can understand how other suspension companies with less drag racing experience than BMR would not know that the stronger sway bar saddles are necessary. This is the type of knowledge that comes from years of track testing.
Have you ever noticed when UMI chimes in on a thread, they don't make blatant remarks refferring to their compeition (IE:YOU). Don't get me wrong, I run BMR and UMI parts on my build. I have been very happy with both. Since your the president in all, you should know that any memebrs on here with experience in the customer service industry don't really buy into all the sales pitch.
Anything above an 8.50 car I highly doubt those billet brackets are going to make any noticable difference from pass to pass given weather, track conditions and the three billion other thing that affects a couple hundreths off a 60' time.
This is almost as bad as HSW and Nitrous Outlet.
If your bar is the next best thing and is track proven by all your award winning customers then it will sell its self. No need to blatantly state the above bolded comment to make a buck. Again, I run both of your products and have been happy with both. But it is something like that, that would make me sway more towards UMI for my setup. His question about the difference could of been handled in a PM.
Last edited by losiguy; Sep 21, 2009 at 08:31 PM.
I am not trying to start a feud here by any means, all I wanted to know what the differences where between all the anti-roll bars that are on the market. Also who has used what and how much they liked it. We have narrowed down why they are different and why the prices are different as well.
I am price sensitive buyer and being that saved almost over a hundred dollars by selecting the UMI anti-roll bar I believe that I have best bang for the buck. I don't neccessarily need the best parts money can buy I just need them to work and serve their purpose, and if the anti-roll bar can do that then I will be happy as can be.
I am price sensitive buyer and being that saved almost over a hundred dollars by selecting the UMI anti-roll bar I believe that I have best bang for the buck. I don't neccessarily need the best parts money can buy I just need them to work and serve their purpose, and if the anti-roll bar can do that then I will be happy as can be.
Personally, I've used a mix of BMR and UMI. The UMI choice was based on price due to a sale on their SFCs and their K-member being a double tube main bar design. I prefer'd this because the car would be driven on the street. Many pieces of suspension, phb, lca, trq arm, etc are not drastically different. As is the case with a rear sway/drag bar, there are some major design differences between the vendors. IMHO, the most important parts of any rear sway/drag bar are going to be how it connects to the axle tubes and the frame. The wolfe requires alot more work for install though.
I've got nothing but UMI suspension parts on my car. If they make it, it's on my car. The car used to run low 10's with consistant 1.3x 60's. That was with a cammed/150 shot stock guts/heads LS1, driving 45 minutes to the track, and driving home afterwards. I've never had any issues. I will be staying with UMI for the new set-up, which is going to set the new stock cid LS1 nitrous record. Can't beat the quality and reliability of the parts, or the customer service.
I ran the UMI drag bar on my old turbo car. Both on the street and at the track and always had great results. The 99 TA Nitrous Car that I am putting together for my wife will get a full UMI suspension treatment. UMI is great all around components for a Street Strip car.
I have both UMI and BMR on the car. I used to be exclusivly BMR but once this had come up. I opted for the UMI peice.
I installed it and just got welded this week. The difference was amazing. Looking at both the kits, there are 2 differences.
BMR like said included those thicker saddles for the poly bushing (which shows to be thick). The UMI one has stamped peices but the busing is thin and hard so to be honest, how much deflection will be there. I did not notice but if there was a diff in O/D tubing diff??
What I liked about UMI is the peices that attatch to the stock location are bolt in so I can do it at home, drive to a shop and have them weld it. No muss, no fuss, I had this done in a couple of hours by myself. I found that to be a big help.
IMO you can do either, I am not worried about the UMI peice.
I installed it and just got welded this week. The difference was amazing. Looking at both the kits, there are 2 differences.
BMR like said included those thicker saddles for the poly bushing (which shows to be thick). The UMI one has stamped peices but the busing is thin and hard so to be honest, how much deflection will be there. I did not notice but if there was a diff in O/D tubing diff??
What I liked about UMI is the peices that attatch to the stock location are bolt in so I can do it at home, drive to a shop and have them weld it. No muss, no fuss, I had this done in a couple of hours by myself. I found that to be a big help.
IMO you can do either, I am not worried about the UMI peice.
W/ the wolfe bar, since your welding to the rear, you need to make sure it is spaced evenly.
I have my ***** point towards the center of the car too.