From 28x10.5/15S ET Drag to 325-50/16 ET Street Radial = Mistake?
#1
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From 28x10.5/15S ET Drag to 325-50/16 ET Street Radial = Mistake?
The car has gone consistant 1.41-1.43 with an ET Drag with stiff sidewall, I am thinking about switching to a M/T DR this fall in roughly the same size...
The ET Street Radial is slighty smaller, 87" rollout compared to 88" roll out making it 27.7" instead of 28" tall, but that will only kill off 2mph, at rev limiter, a margine that I believe I have. I know they will not grow much ompared to the slick, but with the currect gearing and limiter I do not think I will get to there either way.. maybe I will be surprised who knows...
I know these tires have gone VERY fast with automatic cars, but I have not seen them go quick with a M6... Can they? Have they? I don't want to conduct a $450 experiment w/o at least some knowledge behind it...
Thanks guys...
The ET Street Radial is slighty smaller, 87" rollout compared to 88" roll out making it 27.7" instead of 28" tall, but that will only kill off 2mph, at rev limiter, a margine that I believe I have. I know they will not grow much ompared to the slick, but with the currect gearing and limiter I do not think I will get to there either way.. maybe I will be surprised who knows...
I know these tires have gone VERY fast with automatic cars, but I have not seen them go quick with a M6... Can they? Have they? I don't want to conduct a $450 experiment w/o at least some knowledge behind it...
Thanks guys...
#4
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I couldn't make 325/50/15 MT radials work AT ALL on my car. They are now my street tires and I run 28x12.50 et streets at the track. MT radials were designed to work on footbrake auto cars. They CAN work on transbrake or clutch cars, but it's tricky and your suspension has to be spot on. Bias plys are much more forgiving to marginal suspensions and poo-level track prep.
#6
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I have been reading great things about the M&H tires. There is a guy on these boards cutting 1.4 60' with an m6. I think he is running the cheater slick. Also studderin is running their radial tires with an m6, he cuts 1.55's I believe.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8114003-post17.html
http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?...on=show_detail
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8114003-post17.html
http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?...on=show_detail
Last edited by Nitroused383; 09-18-2009 at 05:25 AM.
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#8
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Jmill, your an auto. The OP is a M6, two completely different worlds here. I think it's possible to cut good 60's with radials. My best to date is a 1.65 on 325/50/15 mickeys. With a slipping clutch. I think with a new clutch I can get down into the 1.5 range. But slicks are a lot easier, and less finicky to me. Best 60 on a 28" slick is a 1.50 flat.
#9
I ran the 325's when I had my 408. They worked very well, off the footbrake, off the transbrake forget it and with an M6 like yours forget it.
I'd love to see your car with a set of 30" Hoosiers 30x9 radial slicks and more gear.
If the 28's have been working for you, and they have, just stick with that.
I'd love to see your car with a set of 30" Hoosiers 30x9 radial slicks and more gear.
If the 28's have been working for you, and they have, just stick with that.
#11
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hey alex, its not close to your 60's I'm making alot less power, and get 1.53s 1.55s (6500 2step) on the same size 28 S ETdrags. And been racing on mt DR and been impressed, is alot easier then having to change tires at the track.
28" 275/16 M&H on stock wheels all around. 5700-6000 2step, best is a 1.600 and I'm locked in the 6.10 1.625 range unless the track sucks.
28" 275/16 M&H on stock wheels all around. 5700-6000 2step, best is a 1.600 and I'm locked in the 6.10 1.625 range unless the track sucks.
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It's not impossible to hook a dr with a 6-speed. When I had 275-60's I could dump the clutch at 6k and dead hook, had a best 60' of 1.60. Granted I have a lot less power than you but I also got it to hook on a 125 shot to a 1.5 60'. Out of curiosity, why are you thinking about switching?
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It's not impossible to hook a dr with a 6-speed. When I had 275-60's I could dump the clutch at 6k and dead hook, had a best 60' of 1.60. Granted I have a lot less power than you but I also got it to hook on a 125 shot to a 1.5 60'. Out of curiosity, why are you thinking about switching?
Also, the Radial might net me some more MPH.
Mark,
Yeah I would love the 30" Radial slick, LOL But my fender wells wont! lol
4.88 with a 30" tire is the same as 4.56 with a 28" tire lol
MMMMMMMM Gearing.... Yum!
#14
Mostly if not all are FI set ups which are easier on the tires at the hit as opposed to a N/A or nitrous set up and most of those guys are on a 30" radial, not a 28" (27"xx).
#15
THe only reason I considered switching is in the hope that the tire will hook the same, with less work when I get to the track lol... I can change both tires in only a few minutes with the cordless impact gun, but it would be fun to just drive, race, drive home.
Also, the Radial might net me some more MPH.
Mark,
Yeah I would love the 30" Radial slick, LOL But my fender wells wont! lol
4.88 with a 30" tire is the same as 4.56 with a 28" tire lol
MMMMMMMM Gearing.... Yum!
Also, the Radial might net me some more MPH.
Mark,
Yeah I would love the 30" Radial slick, LOL But my fender wells wont! lol
4.88 with a 30" tire is the same as 4.56 with a 28" tire lol
MMMMMMMM Gearing.... Yum!
#16
It's not impossible to hook a dr with a 6-speed. When I had 275-60's I could dump the clutch at 6k and dead hook, had a best 60' of 1.60. Granted I have a lot less power than you but I also got it to hook on a 125 shot to a 1.5 60'. Out of curiosity, why are you thinking about switching?
#18
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A3 Formy I ran a bunch of different tires, went 1.35 2nd pass with 325's with coaching from Madman. I think with a stick car you'd have more work to figure it out. If you use a 2 step might not be as hard since you would launch consistently.
But dr's are unforgiving where slicks will work with a variety of shock settings and tire psi. With DR's are need to find the perfect combination of front/rear shock settings etc., to make it all work.
But dr's are unforgiving where slicks will work with a variety of shock settings and tire psi. With DR's are need to find the perfect combination of front/rear shock settings etc., to make it all work.