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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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Default Traction anyone?

So I went to the strip last wednesday, a rather nice day, not too hot and not too cold. Anyway, stock motor, 3600 stall, full exhaust, 315 M/T DR's out back. I sprayed a 100 shot off the line, and completely blew the tires out. Second run i shot the 100 after the 60 foot and still broke loose a little bit... Any suggestions to get this thing planted? Oh and it ran a 7.84@92 the second time! Pretty good all things considered... Thanks in advance guys!
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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What kind of rear suspension/shocks are you running? Whose torque arm, lca's, etc. etc.?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 09:20 AM
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^ yup you need to give more background. Also what kind of burnout?? Or you even heating the tires up, Tire PSI?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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Tires run at 28 psi, I do heat em up, but nothing outrageous. I boxed the LCA's, it has Eibach sportlines, bilstien shocks, stock everything else. I'm not looking to autocross. I just wanna hold the power off the line...
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 02:39 PM
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AFter you burn out do you spin them to the line while slightly letting off throttle? This is an awesome technique i was taught by watching some veteran 1320 runners when i went.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtiebuilder
Tires run at 28 psi, I do heat em up, but nothing outrageous. I boxed the LCA's, it has Eibach sportlines, bilstien shocks, stock everything else. I'm not looking to autocross. I just wanna hold the power off the line...
If you're looking for a drag-race set-up, I can get you taken care of. You'll need a new pair of adjustable shocks, adjustable lower control arms, an adjustable torque arm, and a few other assorted parts. If you're interested, give me a call at the shop. Our number is 225-673-3533. Look forward to talking to you!

Steve
Madman & Co. Racing
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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Try running the at 18psi.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Try running the at 18psi.
True, but if he is all stock (torque arm mainly), and if he hooks with 18psi, then he's gonna break something.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mad_steve
True, but if he is all stock (torque arm mainly), and if he hooks with 18psi, then he's gonna break something.
And? lol
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 05:04 PM
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run them at 18psi. and do a decent smoke show.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mad_steve
True, but if he is all stock (torque arm mainly), and if he hooks with 18psi, then he's gonna break something.
Steve... are you specifically talking about the rearend or torque arm breaking? I'm still stock suspension (sans sub frame connectors) and have been wondering whether I need to get an aftermarket torque arm with my set up. It hooks great now but will be having my new (rather torquey) cam intalled next month.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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old tires?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtiebuilder
Tires run at 28 psi, I do heat em up, but nothing outrageous. I boxed the LCA's, it has Eibach sportlines, bilstien shocks, stock everything else. I'm not looking to autocross. I just wanna hold the power off the line...
Autocross is not the reason you want upgraded suspension pieces. You need stronger pieces and to be able to make adjustments for different track conditions. Drag radials are harder to get to hook consistantly. 28 psi is a lot in these tires (for the track). It always takes me a couple passes and making adjustments to get my car hooking good. I am considering adding a pair of full slicks for next year and switching back and forth from my radials.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Sounds to me like the car isn't transferring the weight... which is one of the reasons (i think) Steve is suggesting those parts. A car setup for autocrossing is not going to work at the drag strip, those are two completely different chassis setups. But with the adjustability that Steve is suggesting, he could find a setup at both tracks and switch back and forth to try to get the best fo both worlds. Oh and 25 psi is too much, I'd start at the mentioned 18psi.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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A torque arm and anti-sway bar will help a lot to plant the tires better when the N20 hits.
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bracketracerZ28
Steve... are you specifically talking about the rearend or torque arm breaking? I'm still stock suspension (sans sub frame connectors) and have been wondering whether I need to get an aftermarket torque arm with my set up. It hooks great now but will be having my new (rather torquey) cam intalled next month.
I'm actually talking about breaking the tail-shaft on the tranny, or (if you have a 10-bolt rear end) possibly breaking the rear. In my opinion, the tranny would go first. Definitely want to get an upgraded rear and aftermarket torque arm.
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mad_steve
I'm actually talking about breaking the tail-shaft on the tranny, or (if you have a 10-bolt rear end) possibly breaking the rear. In my opinion, the tranny would go first. Definitely want to get an upgraded rear and aftermarket torque arm.
interesting cause the 3 times I have busted the rearend, it broke the tranny too. Will the torque arm help save my 10 bolt (better than the stock arm)?
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bracketracerZ28
interesting cause the 3 times I have busted the rearend, it broke the tranny too. Will the torque arm help save my 10 bolt (better than the stock arm)?
I've seen aftermarket torque arms grenade 10-bolts. Your best bet would be to get a 12-bolt with a chassis mount torque arm or a full length torque arm with a relocation bracket on the front to get the mount off of the tranny. Give me a call when you can, I'll go over everything with you. Our phone number is 225-673-3533.
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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What about stock shocks and springs on the back and a set of adjustable shocks on the front.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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I'll give you a call steve. Thanks a lot guys.
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