Need advice on suspension setup
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From: Orlando, Florida
Need advice on suspension setup Hi all,
I went to the track and spun my way to a 13.12 @ 108 mph. With my new verter I am obliterating my stock tires. Granted I am at one of the worst drag strips ever at Orlando Speed World for getting traction but I don't think that's an excuse to getting 2.2 60 foots.
What would help the most and make the most noticeable difference. I want my car to hook good.
I know I'll need lower control arms, but will I need a torque arm too? Will subframes help?
I will be getting some Nitto 275/40/17 to go on my stock wheels so that should help a little.
Any advice is appreciated. What manufacture do you guys recommend? BMR?
I want the setup that will work.
Thanks in advance
Jeff
mods in sig.
I went to the track and spun my way to a 13.12 @ 108 mph. With my new verter I am obliterating my stock tires. Granted I am at one of the worst drag strips ever at Orlando Speed World for getting traction but I don't think that's an excuse to getting 2.2 60 foots.
What would help the most and make the most noticeable difference. I want my car to hook good.
I know I'll need lower control arms, but will I need a torque arm too? Will subframes help?
I will be getting some Nitto 275/40/17 to go on my stock wheels so that should help a little.
Any advice is appreciated. What manufacture do you guys recommend? BMR?
I want the setup that will work.
Thanks in advance
Jeff
mods in sig.
I pull 1.38 60's and first off get some tires I dont care how much hp your making if you dont have a tire that will hook your going nowhere.
second I have the full hal 12way adj setup and love it.
third I run a spohn tq arm but thats not really any help unless your at 400+rwhp
4th move the battery to the trunk
5th absoutly get lowering control arms and Id spring for the relocating brackets also
That will defintely help your 60's
second I have the full hal 12way adj setup and love it.
third I run a spohn tq arm but thats not really any help unless your at 400+rwhp
4th move the battery to the trunk
5th absoutly get lowering control arms and Id spring for the relocating brackets also
That will defintely help your 60's
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From: Orlando, Florida
Thanks.
Looks like I'll go with lca's and Nitto's.
do the relo brackets have to be welded in? How do you know where to set them?
sorry I'm a suspension noob.
Looks like I'll go with lca's and Nitto's.
do the relo brackets have to be welded in? How do you know where to set them?
sorry I'm a suspension noob.
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
Thanks.
Looks like I'll go with lca's and Nitto's.
do the relo brackets have to be welded in? How do you know where to set them?
sorry I'm a suspension noob.
Looks like I'll go with lca's and Nitto's.
do the relo brackets have to be welded in? How do you know where to set them?
sorry I'm a suspension noob.
If you get the adjustables then make them the same length as the stockers before you put them on, then set your pinion angle by adjusting them while they are on the car.
Brad
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From: Orlando, Florida
What is the right pinion angle to go with? This car is primarily street driven. I've heard of people running 3 degrees is that right?? How can I verify the pinion angle, what would I use and where do I measure? On the driveshaft?
<----1.52 on stock suspension(!front swaybar) with Mac subframes, LCA's and Mac Panhard bar(stock would be fine though IMO). Went 1.53 with Hals and Random Tech torque arm.
Don't get me wrong, Hals rock - especially when the track is questionable. Adjustability is great and I loved them, but the stock suspension on our cars works pretty well too.
I would: pull the front sway-bar, get some good subframes welded in, some LCA's and you're set. And as mentioned before - very sticky tires.
<---Yank PT4200, stock internals, n/a
Don't get me wrong, Hals rock - especially when the track is questionable. Adjustability is great and I loved them, but the stock suspension on our cars works pretty well too.
I would: pull the front sway-bar, get some good subframes welded in, some LCA's and you're set. And as mentioned before - very sticky tires.
<---Yank PT4200, stock internals, n/a
I'm all about the freebies for people just getting started.
Yank that front sway bar, put the battery in the back as mentioned already..will help you alot.
a 275 nitto is still going to be a bit difficult to work with, so you're going to want to transfer weight as much as possible to help the car hook.
i agree on the subframes and lca's being the two suspension mods to start with. do those and the free stuff and see how the car is at that point and then evaluate further needs.
Yank that front sway bar, put the battery in the back as mentioned already..will help you alot.
a 275 nitto is still going to be a bit difficult to work with, so you're going to want to transfer weight as much as possible to help the car hook.
i agree on the subframes and lca's being the two suspension mods to start with. do those and the free stuff and see how the car is at that point and then evaluate further needs.
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Call Sam Strano of www.stranoparts.com, he is a suspension god, just make sure you got time, cause the man likes to get into the finer details
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From: Orlando, Florida
How much does my stock battery weigh? I'd rather put a lighter one than relocate to the back. How hard is it to pull the front swaybar?
I want to do that and go back to the track this Friday, if it doesn't rain.
I want to do that and go back to the track this Friday, if it doesn't rain.
1) drag radials
2) lower control arms - helps with wheelhop from the nittos and reduces deflection
3) do a 6 second burnout with the nittos, and then at the line wack it. If you spin, next time foot stall the gas up to 1500 and roll out and floor it fast but gradually. Do this faster and faster until you find the limits of the track
You should cut high 1.6's at least.
2) lower control arms - helps with wheelhop from the nittos and reduces deflection
3) do a 6 second burnout with the nittos, and then at the line wack it. If you spin, next time foot stall the gas up to 1500 and roll out and floor it fast but gradually. Do this faster and faster until you find the limits of the track
You should cut high 1.6's at least.
