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Let's see those 10 point cages

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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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Default Let's see those 10 point cages

post up some pics of your 10 point cages in 4th gens please!
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Check our site. There are plenty of pics there.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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Burkhart by far has the best f-body cage out there. Glad i drove 3 hrs to drop my car off there. I know its not a 10pt but you get to see most of it on my 8pt. Only thing i changes on mine was i wanted my back bars straight down as opposed to curved. And i forgot his name but the bigger guy that works there is pretty damn cool/funny haha.

Heres some pics of my 8pt.....







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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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is there any benifit to going all the way back to the rear frame rails? instead of over the fuel tank area like this.



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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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the way i think of it, as well as others, the rear part of the car where thoes bars go is a "dead part" of the car. Its after the rearend/suspension and just "along for the rde". As opposed to where mine is, its right by the rear shocks/springs/rearend etc. so it stiffens up the car right where you want it to be stiff. Keeps all the flex from the shocks etc. under control. But again to each there own way of thinking.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Going to the back like that, if you tie into where taubr unit went is the best way to do it, that will stiffen the entire back of the car up very well. Tieing a bar across also helps.


The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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Totally agree with ya JL, go from where mine is down to the back with a side bar in there would be awsome! But if you were to only pick one place my opionion would be right over everything.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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Correct. I went all the way to the back with mine, I also took a couple smaller bars and tied them to the main hoop, and across the 2.

I am looking, at converting to coil overs and mounting them to the back of the housing. If I do this, I will run something thru the floor off the bar that goes between the frame rails that the shocks will attch to where the stock fuel tank is, and attach them to the added bars that are on the back portion of the cage. This will tie the shock mounts essentially to the cage of the car as well as the frame rails, and should provide plenty of support. Plus, getting the shocks away from the lca's so I can shim them in as far as possible making more room to tuck the tires in, and the springs won't be in the way of the tires anymore either.

Should work out good, PHB is the only thing that's gonna be a pita, but I think it will be o.k., the mount on the chassis will get redone, utilize 1/2 of it and build a secondary back portion of that and box it all in, and just build a new attachment bracket to the rear to bring it back as well.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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Taubr if you don't mind me asking how much did you pay for your cage?
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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It was $850 with no swing outs. That was a while ago, he might have changed his prices a bit so don't quote me on it

Last edited by Taubr Unit; Dec 21, 2009 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Is the swing outs legal for the track?
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Going to the back like that, if you tie into where taubr unit went is the best way to do it, that will stiffen the entire back of the car up very well. Tieing a bar across also helps.


The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
I have to disagree.... You want the rear bars above the rear shocks or as close as you can get them.
You can also go all the way to the back and then run "X" bars above the shocks.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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You get the idea, Its only 8 pt aswell. Had Eric @ MWC do it.

Chris
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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thats a 10 point
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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The x is something I have seen several times Baked, adn that does look nice and solid.

I agrees, right on top of the shocks is probably best. I'm going to relocate mine to the back of the housing, and put them up where the facotry fuel tanks is on a solid bar between the frame rails, then run a couple bars thru the floor to tie into the back portion of the cage. That should be nice and solid when it's done.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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I really like MWC's work. Eric does a very nice job, and is very cheap.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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Yeah Eric is a great guy to deal with. I ordered my wheels and 5/8 stud kit through him
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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i also agree, Eric is a awsome guy and will spend all the time u need with him. I have his rearend and it is nothing short of amazing!
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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I've never used anything from MWC, but his work looks good. I specificially like how the cage above was tied into the dash. I've only seen one other car done that way, it was a stenod car, they put a plate there and ran a bar all the way across, then brought the upper bars onto that, then the downbars to the floor. This was on a 25.5 pewter firebird they did, I think it's the car biggdogg on here has now.

That car was always one of my favorite cars, same color as mine, and taken to a really high level, and done spotlessly
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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I've seen the rearmost bars done a few different ways. Mine have always touched down above the gas tank. I prefer that because my thinking is if the car goes on the roof I think the tank section of the unibody is a better place than all the way in back...

Then again I've seen some 25.2 and 25.5 stuff that were connected in both places.
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