Let's see those 10 point cages
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (32)
Burkhart by far has the best f-body cage out there. Glad i drove 3 hrs to drop my car off there. I know its not a 10pt but you get to see most of it on my 8pt. Only thing i changes on mine was i wanted my back bars straight down as opposed to curved. And i forgot his name but the bigger guy that works there is pretty damn cool/funny haha.
Heres some pics of my 8pt.....
Heres some pics of my 8pt.....
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (32)
the way i think of it, as well as others, the rear part of the car where thoes bars go is a "dead part" of the car. Its after the rearend/suspension and just "along for the rde". As opposed to where mine is, its right by the rear shocks/springs/rearend etc. so it stiffens up the car right where you want it to be stiff. Keeps all the flex from the shocks etc. under control. But again to each there own way of thinking.
#6
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Going to the back like that, if you tie into where taubr unit went is the best way to do it, that will stiffen the entire back of the car up very well. Tieing a bar across also helps.
The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
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#8
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Correct. I went all the way to the back with mine, I also took a couple smaller bars and tied them to the main hoop, and across the 2.
I am looking, at converting to coil overs and mounting them to the back of the housing. If I do this, I will run something thru the floor off the bar that goes between the frame rails that the shocks will attch to where the stock fuel tank is, and attach them to the added bars that are on the back portion of the cage. This will tie the shock mounts essentially to the cage of the car as well as the frame rails, and should provide plenty of support. Plus, getting the shocks away from the lca's so I can shim them in as far as possible making more room to tuck the tires in, and the springs won't be in the way of the tires anymore either.
Should work out good, PHB is the only thing that's gonna be a pita, but I think it will be o.k., the mount on the chassis will get redone, utilize 1/2 of it and build a secondary back portion of that and box it all in, and just build a new attachment bracket to the rear to bring it back as well.
I am looking, at converting to coil overs and mounting them to the back of the housing. If I do this, I will run something thru the floor off the bar that goes between the frame rails that the shocks will attch to where the stock fuel tank is, and attach them to the added bars that are on the back portion of the cage. This will tie the shock mounts essentially to the cage of the car as well as the frame rails, and should provide plenty of support. Plus, getting the shocks away from the lca's so I can shim them in as far as possible making more room to tuck the tires in, and the springs won't be in the way of the tires anymore either.
Should work out good, PHB is the only thing that's gonna be a pita, but I think it will be o.k., the mount on the chassis will get redone, utilize 1/2 of it and build a secondary back portion of that and box it all in, and just build a new attachment bracket to the rear to bring it back as well.
#12
9 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Going to the back like that, if you tie into where taubr unit went is the best way to do it, that will stiffen the entire back of the car up very well. Tieing a bar across also helps.
The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
The back is along for the ride, this is true, but way I see it, stiffening all of it up isn't going to hurt, it gives the back of the car some more strength to help prevent flexing.
You can also go all the way to the back and then run "X" bars above the shocks.
#15
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
The x is something I have seen several times Baked, adn that does look nice and solid.
I agrees, right on top of the shocks is probably best. I'm going to relocate mine to the back of the housing, and put them up where the facotry fuel tanks is on a solid bar between the frame rails, then run a couple bars thru the floor to tie into the back portion of the cage. That should be nice and solid when it's done.
I agrees, right on top of the shocks is probably best. I'm going to relocate mine to the back of the housing, and put them up where the facotry fuel tanks is on a solid bar between the frame rails, then run a couple bars thru the floor to tie into the back portion of the cage. That should be nice and solid when it's done.
#19
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
I've never used anything from MWC, but his work looks good. I specificially like how the cage above was tied into the dash. I've only seen one other car done that way, it was a stenod car, they put a plate there and ran a bar all the way across, then brought the upper bars onto that, then the downbars to the floor. This was on a 25.5 pewter firebird they did, I think it's the car biggdogg on here has now.
That car was always one of my favorite cars, same color as mine, and taken to a really high level, and done spotlessly
That car was always one of my favorite cars, same color as mine, and taken to a really high level, and done spotlessly
#20
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
I've seen the rearmost bars done a few different ways. Mine have always touched down above the gas tank. I prefer that because my thinking is if the car goes on the roof I think the tank section of the unibody is a better place than all the way in back...
Then again I've seen some 25.2 and 25.5 stuff that were connected in both places.
Then again I've seen some 25.2 and 25.5 stuff that were connected in both places.