evap delete question?
11-08-2010, 11:42 AM
#21
Ok some info here, about the Evap stuff, and the fuel presseure sensor.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...1-harness.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-deit.html
I read a lot more in the service manuals whats this stuff really dose.
Ok, on the bottem of the fill tube theres a one way valve, so gas dosn't come back up the tube. And if the car rolls over
The fill limiter vent valve (FLVV). is the black fittings (1/2? and 1/4 T?)
-contraols the fuel tank fill levle by closing the primary from the fuel tank.
- prevents fuel from exiting the fuel tnak via the Evap pipe to the canister (the bigger nylon U line)
- provides fuel spillage protection in the event of a roll over.
The Over pressuer relive valve, just says it located next to the FLVV, I guess that has to be the white valve. I was just blowing into a hose I put on the FLVV looking at this stuff, so not even 1-3 psi but it was balloning the tank a ton so it took 3-5 secs for air the rush out. So even if it valve dose work, and I just didnt have enogh pressuer for it to vent. I don't think it will work for filling the tank vent, and normal venting when the muffalr heats the tank up ect.
And I think thats why some guys the I read on here after removing all this. said they ""pluged everything, and use the factory vent" Said after they fill the tank the car would run really rich for the 1st few miles, and found a few times when they removed the gas cap they tank had a ton of pressuer in it.
I think it's save the remove the "fuel tank pressuer" stuff. I'm worried its used for tuning, and I just just turn it off and be ok, Anyone know for sure????? I dont see it used in the fuel metering system componets:
-pump/lines/rail
-pump ele circuit
-Inj's
-fpr
-tb,
-iac
-tps
and it just used in/with the Evap. So gona remove that with the wiring in the car, and cap fittng on the pump sender (middle)
I found a old school PCV filter/vent, with a bigger nipple that fits on the bigger FLVV nipple. that will vent a lot of air. But I bet just has cotten in it?
And a power booster filter for power brakes, with normal 3/8 fitting on both end, dosn't have a check valve (most do to store vacum). So will work for a vent, and says it "filters harmfull fuel vapors, will not damage diaphragms and seals" I think that will help for smelling fuel vapor.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...1-harness.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-deit.html
I read a lot more in the service manuals whats this stuff really dose.
Ok, on the bottem of the fill tube theres a one way valve, so gas dosn't come back up the tube. And if the car rolls over
The fill limiter vent valve (FLVV). is the black fittings (1/2? and 1/4 T?)
-contraols the fuel tank fill levle by closing the primary from the fuel tank.
- prevents fuel from exiting the fuel tnak via the Evap pipe to the canister (the bigger nylon U line)
- provides fuel spillage protection in the event of a roll over.
The Over pressuer relive valve, just says it located next to the FLVV, I guess that has to be the white valve. I was just blowing into a hose I put on the FLVV looking at this stuff, so not even 1-3 psi but it was balloning the tank a ton so it took 3-5 secs for air the rush out. So even if it valve dose work, and I just didnt have enogh pressuer for it to vent. I don't think it will work for filling the tank vent, and normal venting when the muffalr heats the tank up ect.
And I think thats why some guys the I read on here after removing all this. said they ""pluged everything, and use the factory vent" Said after they fill the tank the car would run really rich for the 1st few miles, and found a few times when they removed the gas cap they tank had a ton of pressuer in it.
I think it's save the remove the "fuel tank pressuer" stuff. I'm worried its used for tuning, and I just just turn it off and be ok, Anyone know for sure????? I dont see it used in the fuel metering system componets:
-pump/lines/rail
-pump ele circuit
-Inj's
-fpr
-tb,
-iac
-tps
and it just used in/with the Evap. So gona remove that with the wiring in the car, and cap fittng on the pump sender (middle)
I found a old school PCV filter/vent, with a bigger nipple that fits on the bigger FLVV nipple. that will vent a lot of air. But I bet just has cotten in it?
And a power booster filter for power brakes, with normal 3/8 fitting on both end, dosn't have a check valve (most do to store vacum). So will work for a vent, and says it "filters harmfull fuel vapors, will not damage diaphragms and seals" I think that will help for smelling fuel vapor.
11-08-2010, 07:47 PM
#22
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I responded to your PM.
I kept the fuel pressure sensor as a plug, that's it.
I'm using the center line from the OEM line on the fuel pump housing as a vent and just used a shop rag folded over several times zip tied to vent.
I kept the fuel pressure sensor as a plug, that's it.
I'm using the center line from the OEM line on the fuel pump housing as a vent and just used a shop rag folded over several times zip tied to vent.
11-08-2010, 11:15 PM
#23
thanks, I dont see thew PM tho?
ya, I found a inside plug so used that for the FPS hole. And removed the wires for Evap noid, and FPS. So theres just 4 wires on the whole rearend, and fuel tank harness now
Did you know that center port had a one way check valve to just let air out. Do you get any suction when you remove the gas cap with its empty? Hows that ben working for you? thanks agian
ya, I found a inside plug so used that for the FPS hole. And removed the wires for Evap noid, and FPS. So theres just 4 wires on the whole rearend, and fuel tank harness now
Did you know that center port had a one way check valve to just let air out. Do you get any suction when you remove the gas cap with its empty? Hows that ben working for you? thanks agian
11-13-2010, 05:41 PM
#24
did this, running the stock nylon 5/8 line to the filler neck dead area, so when the tank is installed run some 5/8 hose to that power brake booster filter. For vent up near the filler cap hole in the fender so if it dose smell, its outside. see how that works?
took the metalline out, (on a lift you can maybe get it out one piece) and junk going to the intake. De-pinned the wires going from the rear bulkhead to the tank. Kinda nice now only have 4 wires out of thosue 3 big 10ish each wire connectors with ABS gone too
easier to take a pic when working on the car, to remebed what it weights. This is without the wireing inside the car and under the hood, and relays/fuses, and PCM pins. but thats only a few oz. more.
was jumping between 6.2 .......... it all adds up
still over 3200 race weight
took the metalline out, (on a lift you can maybe get it out one piece) and junk going to the intake. De-pinned the wires going from the rear bulkhead to the tank. Kinda nice now only have 4 wires out of thosue 3 big 10ish each wire connectors with ABS gone too
easier to take a pic when working on the car, to remebed what it weights. This is without the wireing inside the car and under the hood, and relays/fuses, and PCM pins. but thats only a few oz. more.
was jumping between 6.2 .......... it all adds up
still over 3200 race weight
Last edited by studderin; 11-18-2010 at 06:37 PM.
04-15-2011, 03:04 PM
#25
update pic of the evap delete. Off the biger 5/8 fitting on the T out to a "HELP" power booster filter. another older car valvecover to air cleaner vet tube filter. That I should also have a gas fume safe charcoal filter, and that cheap 3/8 fuel filter I run in my catch can return tube. I few times about a month ago when there was snow out and it would be 25-30 in the garage and I'd put the torpedo heater blowing under the car till it got to 45-50 in there. So the gas tank got warn fast, haven't noticed any gas fumes but I'll see how it is this summer. My roomate has e85 is his trunk fuel cell with a dump tube vent. And you can smell that after 24hrs of not going in the other garage not any big temp changes.
