JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

Mine is dead hooking. It went from 2.11 to 1.92. I have no other mods.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

if you are dead hooking you either have two or three spark wires disconnected or the converter is absolute junk.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

ok i just noticed your sig. 236k miles? ****. you may not that far off if the motor is that worn out lol

Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

hooking up pretty good with mt et slicks
but i too have 2.73's
i think the 3600 is too small for my large cam.lunati suggests at least a 4000 stall.

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

I've had a few people say that it should 60' faster with a converter but I see tons of people who go way faster with the same 60' times. My car wouldn't get out of the 14's and I put in the converter and it went 13.55. My car was one of the ones that were born slow.

GtoSpd

iTrader: (2)

I pull high 1.8s to 1.97 on the stock stall and street tires. I have 3.73 gears.

I also would like to hear from more people that kept the same 60 before and after stalling, but dropped ET.

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

Well, mine actually picked up the 60' and ET. .2 on the 60' and .5 in the quarter.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

1.6 3.23 mt drs

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Even though this is old I have the same converter you have in when my set-up was all motor. 230mm circle d converter which works out to be 9". Some companies call it an 8" but it's really a 9". Mine was rated at 5000rpm, but it flashed nearly 6000rpm and netted me average 1.31-1.33 60's all day long and a best of 1.29 and 1.30 on the same day last november along with a personal best on motor.

I had bought the car with the stall that way and I previously had only bought and used FTI converters so when I switched to nitrous I sent it off to them.

They changed the turbine fin angle the pump and the stator(basic overhaul of everything along with new bearings and freshening what needed it). It's now flashing around 4500-4700 on motor and currently 5200 on a small 62n jet where it was spec'd for a 93n-99n jet(275-300) and on those jets it should flash between 5700-6000rpm where it did when it was on motor and worked so well because it put it SMACK in it's peak torque output. Even with it being too tight for that small of a shot I managed a 1.31 60' with it so far.

Your times at the strip in an auto are DIRECTLY related to the torque converter IMO it is THE most important piece of the puzzle aside from shock adjustability, suspension adjustability, and the motor combo after that.

nwforever

iTrader: (4)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HN-5bj8ibbM

Here is the new Yank Eliminator 4k, video of the Fuddle 4k is on the first post

hfthe3rd

iTrader: (1)

What rpm are you leaving at with that 4k?

nwforever

iTrader: (4)

on my stock tach im getting 3k or close to it. and thats with my horrible brakes.

BADHAWK51

iTrader: (1)

1.42's N/A with a 4l60e trans and a Circle D 4000 converter leaving off the footbrake at 2,200 rpms. 3,550 raceweight

Longbob

1.29 to 1.32 generally. It will be 1.35 in bad air over 4000'

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If ANY of you guys running slicks are dead hooking the tire you are doing it wrong and will end up breaking all kinds of **** and or end up on the bumper if the car has enough power.

A slick is suppose to slip off the line as the car begins to move or right before it moves.

If you've ever watched a really fast car on slicks especially a m6 car when they launch you can hear the tires slip and spin on the line initially. Wheel speed is your friend with slicks. If not the bumper will be your next best friend and then the parts guy.

STOCK1090

iTrader: (1)

Junkie,
If you run slicks you will break more only if you did not upgrade your driveline parts. The right part for the right job.

If you end up on the bumper you need to upgrade your front springs, shocks and maybe adjust what is holding the rear in the car. Many times it is a poor choice in parts(usually converter) chasing a better 60' while scaraficing the rest of the run.

A slick is not supposed to slip. A stick guy who has his car set up right has the slip in his clutch.

What is a problem here on this site is guys that are driving their car to work are comparing numbers with guys who have race cars.

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

That last statement is the most accurate statement I've ever heard on this site!

Longbob

Umm....nope. Slicks are not supposed to spin. If you spin a radial then you could loose a tenth before they recover. If you spin a bias ply then it may only be 4 hundreths.

I realize mine is a true race car, but I race Stock Eliminator and we have to use mostly stock suspension. We can upgrade to a 12 bolt which I have and we certainly want to run pro gears, but we always want our cars to dead hook.

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

In the case of a promod or a pro stock car they do need to have SOME wheel spin to get up on the tire but I've never heard of anyone needing to get these type cars to do that.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

That's a pretty ugly launch. What's up with the suspension? You're unloading the rears when the front comes down bad.

Oh, 1.50 60' with an SS4000 and 3.42 gears N/A Stock Internal.