Suspension Mod Order
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From: Charlotte, NC
Suspension Mod Order Right now the car has bone stock suspension and has gone 1.54 to the 60ft on a 255/50/16 MT. The only problem is that the track has to be perfect otherwise it doesn't want to hook up, it will hook for 20-30ft and then spin the tires. What suspension piece should I start with that will help the most. Some sort of list in order of importance would be nice.
First off, thats amazing that you have done that with what you have. BUT I am not suprised that you get a On/OFF Switch Approach and depending on track conditions (prep, weather, and staging) it can be a crap shoot.
IMO you have a good converter. I see no rear gear upgrade, or if you have something better then a 10 bolt. IF YOU DO NOT, then get that fixed 1st. Your rear should be whining line a bastard now.
IF considering a upgraded rear or one that is not blown to hell yet.
Deciding on Tire Choice.
Most like to blanket state Drag Radial and in most cases for a auto car I would agree but the Bias Ply slick gives you more of a "window" and that tire does recover as a DR does not.
As for suspension mods, here is a generic list, pick your sponors. Adj is better, and chomonly is better, as for tubular or boxed, its a toss up.
Starters:
Rear LCA's (relocation bracket is optional)
TQ Arm
TQ arm relocation trans cross member
Weld in SFC
Moderate:
Pan Hard Rod (for straight line it does help but not as much as it does for auto x)
Shocks (Adj. QA1/Strange/AFCO) (front and backs)
Front K Member and Lower A Arms (uppers heavier and not needed for dragging)
Extreme:
Rear Drag Bar (weld in), Recommended for Racy Street cars, I use UMI
Also consider weight reduction and weight relocation to help xfering the weight.
IMO you have a good converter. I see no rear gear upgrade, or if you have something better then a 10 bolt. IF YOU DO NOT, then get that fixed 1st. Your rear should be whining line a bastard now.
IF considering a upgraded rear or one that is not blown to hell yet.
Deciding on Tire Choice.
Most like to blanket state Drag Radial and in most cases for a auto car I would agree but the Bias Ply slick gives you more of a "window" and that tire does recover as a DR does not.
As for suspension mods, here is a generic list, pick your sponors. Adj is better, and chomonly is better, as for tubular or boxed, its a toss up.
Starters:
Rear LCA's (relocation bracket is optional)
TQ Arm
TQ arm relocation trans cross member
Weld in SFC
Moderate:
Pan Hard Rod (for straight line it does help but not as much as it does for auto x)
Shocks (Adj. QA1/Strange/AFCO) (front and backs)
Front K Member and Lower A Arms (uppers heavier and not needed for dragging)
Extreme:
Rear Drag Bar (weld in), Recommended for Racy Street cars, I use UMI
Also consider weight reduction and weight relocation to help xfering the weight.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Mar 3, 2010 at 12:18 PM. Reason: updates
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Yes it is sitting right now because it blew up the 10bolt. I am getting a 10bolt with 3.73s from a friend for $200 to hold me over until my first time homebuyer tax credit comes back and I can buy a Dana 60. It has been delay after delay with buying the house otherwise I would already have the money back and the Dana 60 in my car.
So besides the rear what would you do?
So besides the rear what would you do?
it needs sub frame connectors first before it twists your **** up and pops a t-top... then i'd look into torque arm and sway bar/anti roll, then i'd look at rear lower control arms and shocks and an adjustable panhard bar.
you got lots of places to spend money so get ready...
you got lots of places to spend money so get ready...
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