driveshaft safety loop, 4" exhaust question
#1
driveshaft safety loop, 4" exhaust question
That is my 4" exhaust setup, I was wondering if anyone could tell me whose driveshaft safety loop will work with this? I see BMR, Spohn, and UMI all make one. Its obvious to me that I need to order one for longtubes, but still do any have better exhaust clearance in their design? If you have 4" exhaust how are you running your safety loops?
Edit: Looking at my pictures, I may need a custom loop made? Looks like the average loop goes straight up off the mount, I almost think my exhaust is close enough to the driveshaft that I may have issues with off the shelf loops.
#2
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we have the best fitting driveshaft loop on the market. if this one won't work you will more than likely need to custom fab something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
#4
Yeah my exhaust was fabbed around the body mounted Spohn arm I'm running. I'm going to a long style torque arm now with the relocation mount. So the safety loop mount will be there by itself, won't have the spohn torque arm mount there anymore.
ssvert99, I like how your loop goes above everything else. I'll have to take a look outside, but that just might be the ticket!
Are there any issues with lowering a car and running a front safety loop? Someday I am going to lower it, but nothing drastic, planning on running the strano/koni setup.
ssvert99, I like how your loop goes above everything else. I'll have to take a look outside, but that just might be the ticket!
Are there any issues with lowering a car and running a front safety loop? Someday I am going to lower it, but nothing drastic, planning on running the strano/koni setup.
#5
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we have the best fitting driveshaft loop on the market. if this one won't work you will more than likely need to custom fab something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
#6
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we have the best fitting driveshaft loop on the market. if this one won't work you will more than likely need to custom fab something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-pictures.html
#7
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I used a Jegs brand, but had to cut one side of the mount bracket off. So basicaly its only bolted to one side of the floor plan. I'm running true duals with an x pipe. My throughts are that the x pipe is also a loop. The jegs unit tucks up nice and tight. This is with a long arm with relocation bracket.
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#8
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I went with this one, tried a couple other but this had the best clearance and fit a 3.5" DS with a little slotting. Now I need to mod the TDs a bit to fit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/1...oductId=751248
PS I already repainted it.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/1...oductId=751248
PS I already repainted it.
#9
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I bought the UMI product for my 99 camaro with SLP LT headers and full SLP exhaust and I'm having a ton of trouble with rubbing. Has anyone else tried this loop? It fits while static, but I keep hearing bumps and such while moving? Any ideas as to whether this loop is practicle to "finesse" into the proper position or should I just cut my losses and try something else?
Thanks for any help.
JT
PS Also Chicago area AChotrod, I'm in Hickory Hills. I'd love to get a look at your car.
Thanks for any help.
JT
PS Also Chicago area AChotrod, I'm in Hickory Hills. I'd love to get a look at your car.
#12
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I bought the UMI product for my 99 camaro with SLP LT headers and full SLP exhaust and I'm having a ton of trouble with rubbing. Has anyone else tried this loop? It fits while static, but I keep hearing bumps and such while moving? Any ideas as to whether this loop is practicle to "finesse" into the proper position or should I just cut my losses and try something else?
Thanks for any help.
JT
PS Also Chicago area AChotrod, I'm in Hickory Hills. I'd love to get a look at your car.
Thanks for any help.
JT
PS Also Chicago area AChotrod, I'm in Hickory Hills. I'd love to get a look at your car.
I tried the UMI DSL and had to shim it down so it didnt rub over big bumps. Although it would not work at all with my TDs. Any type that leaves room for an I pipe was a no go for me.
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Thanks for the response guys. Not what I wanted to hear after spending the big bucks to mate the DSL from UMI to the sub-frame connectors (also from UMI and beautiful, fit like a dream, nice and tight to the floorpan and look fantastic in black powder coat with my pewter and black SS). You would think that for what they charge it would be a slam dunk fit! It's pretty but it doesn't work. UMI even LISTS my SLP exhaust as an exhaust it WILL work with. If that isn't a valid bitch I'd like to know what is?
Crap, now I've got to do some real work and make something that will fit and perform. Maybe it's time to get one of those universal ones and just fit it up and paint it black.
Anyone know if a universal loop would still double for the original factory brace? I guess I could just make up a piece of mild steel to bolt it to??? The original factory cross brace was simply stamped steel anyway, not like it was a real big deal to begin with.
Thanks again,
JT
Crap, now I've got to do some real work and make something that will fit and perform. Maybe it's time to get one of those universal ones and just fit it up and paint it black.
Anyone know if a universal loop would still double for the original factory brace? I guess I could just make up a piece of mild steel to bolt it to??? The original factory cross brace was simply stamped steel anyway, not like it was a real big deal to begin with.
Thanks again,
JT
#15
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Thanks for the response guys. Not what I wanted to hear after spending the big bucks to mate the DSL from UMI to the sub-frame connectors (also from UMI and beautiful, fit like a dream, nice and tight to the floorpan and look fantastic in black powder coat with my pewter and black SS). You would think that for what they charge it would be a slam dunk fit! It's pretty but it doesn't work. UMI even LISTS my SLP exhaust as an exhaust it WILL work with. If that isn't a valid bitch I'd like to know what is?
Crap, now I've got to do some real work and make something that will fit and perform. Maybe it's time to get one of those universal ones and just fit it up and paint it black.
Anyone know if a universal loop would still double for the original factory brace? I guess I could just make up a piece of mild steel to bolt it to??? The original factory cross brace was simply stamped steel anyway, not like it was a real big deal to begin with.
Thanks again,
JT
Crap, now I've got to do some real work and make something that will fit and perform. Maybe it's time to get one of those universal ones and just fit it up and paint it black.
Anyone know if a universal loop would still double for the original factory brace? I guess I could just make up a piece of mild steel to bolt it to??? The original factory cross brace was simply stamped steel anyway, not like it was a real big deal to begin with.
Thanks again,
JT
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After looking at Smokedoutz28's pics I have to get back under the car and take another look. I've got the same peice, but it's mounted below (piggyback) on the UMI subframe connectors. I may be losing my clearance with that additional thickness of metal.
Once again, ain't that a bitch when you use a company (UMI) product like this and find out it doesn't fit together with it's own products?
This might open one option to cut the ring off and weld in a short (half inch?) bit of steel and touch up the paint. Thus utilizing the expensive part I've already bought. Then again, one of those cheap adjustable DSL's will probably do just fine and I can always paint it. Heck, no one ever really sees these things anyway.
Methinks there will be an email to UMI on this subject in my future.
Thanks guys for all the help and especially the photos. Those really help get an idea of what's workable/possible. Keep up the great work!
JT
Once again, ain't that a bitch when you use a company (UMI) product like this and find out it doesn't fit together with it's own products?
This might open one option to cut the ring off and weld in a short (half inch?) bit of steel and touch up the paint. Thus utilizing the expensive part I've already bought. Then again, one of those cheap adjustable DSL's will probably do just fine and I can always paint it. Heck, no one ever really sees these things anyway.
Methinks there will be an email to UMI on this subject in my future.
Thanks guys for all the help and especially the photos. Those really help get an idea of what's workable/possible. Keep up the great work!
JT