Need advise on proper set up for suspension

I have adjustable everything except rear shocks although rear ride height is adjustable. Here is a little info on the car:
LOTS of weight reduction, probably only thing left is k member and a arms.
15" wheels with shinnies and ET street 26x11.5
Short tq arm adjustable pinion angle, but no adjustment in front, not sure what current pa is.
Double adjustable LCAs, have wheels pulled all the way foward.
LCA relocation brackets in lowest position
4400 stall yank
3.73 12 bolt
all motor ~400hp
qa1 R all the way loose up front
275lb springs front
comp ta 3 way in the middle position on the rear
forgot rear spring rate maybe 150??
Wolfe drag bar

I think it should hook better than what it is hooking.
What it does is this. I launch at 3k off foot-brake. It spin hooks spin hooks spin hooks and goes on after that. Sometimes it will hook and pull the front up fast, probably 5'' off the ground and then fast back down, but don't spin.

60ft when it don't spin is 1.47-1.50
When it spins its 1.53-1.56

Ok here is everything:
Body <---- Front


pinion <---- Front


Driver LCA. Front ---->


torque arm lower bar <---- Front

 

well you dont want to do too much and not know what did what. So I'd say bring your pinion angle down to around -2. then at the track tighten the front shocks. if you're looking to do more at the track i'd move up the lcas one hole as well.

 

HOLD ON, don't move anything..

Sit in the car and have someone measure those same things again
Are you measuring from level ground too?

 

I wouldn't stall it up on the line. I bring my PT4000 up to about 1000 RPM and just stab it when it's time to go. Is your car lowered alot? If it is only slightly or not at all then I would move the LCAs up a hole or two. Pinion angle at -2 for starters.

 

I forgot to put the driveshaft angle and it was 2
That would make the pinion anble -1 or -1.5 I think.

This was on my trailer which I leveled before I took measurments and I had my weight in the drivers seat.

 

IDK I can't get good RTs at 1k. When its hooking the car is very consistant and my RTs are right where they need to be in footbrake. When it spins my RTs get slower. When I stage lower my RTs get slower.

 

Were you bracket racing or Test & Tune dragging?

Reaction during Test & Tune is not important. It trips the lights when you launch and the rest of the times are based on that (60'/330'/1/8 & such).

 

Yeah I bracket race. I just need this car to hook. I won last night, but I had to drive the end of the track to win because it started spinning.

Before I went I turned the front shocks 3 clicks tighter and moved LCA up one notch.

The car barely lifts the wheels now and it don't do what it was doing. The spin is more smooth now. When I first got there it was hooking great, but by 3rd round it started spinning. Luckily the guy in that round went red on me. After that I just dialed up and drove the end of the track. It hooked again on the final round, but I was able to lose enough numbers to run dead on. I ended up taking home $600. I think I am going to buy a new set of tires. I think it may be in my tires. I think they may have a problem because they are getting gummy after a run and I have never had Et Streets do that before. They have been on the car for 2 years out in the weather and I think it might have hurt them. Plus I bought them used and I don't know how old they really are. I didn't get to race much the last 2 years, but plan on racing the whole season again this year.

 

2+ year old tires are about the end of their life. Look on the tire and it'll tell you it's mold date. Do a few test & tunes to get the 60's where you want them and straighten out the car. Low lift is good (weight transfer not too excessive).

Cool to hear you won. The three of us that posted here will send you our paypal addresses for 10% 'consultation' fee here shortly

 

 

congrats on the win and definitely get some new tires

 

I forgot to answer this one.

I don't think it's lowered. I can't get it on my trailer if its any lower.
The height is adjustable all the way around. Should I change anything on that part?

Here it is from yesterday:

 

Went back to the track.

I raised the front shock adjustment up about 1" so it didn't sit so low in the front.

I didn't win this time, but got down to 5 cars in Pro 10 in Sportsman and 10 in trophy. Won a little, but just enough to pay for the night.
Engine was 195F on every run. Trans temp was 185-195 on every pass except the first pass which was 90 and the next to last pass which was 210


Here are my passes
1.495 7.084 first pass out, cold car 3k launch
1.508 7.112 3300 rpm
1.559 7.194 3300 rpm tightened front shocks one click on this pass. car felt like it hesitated or spun smooth
1.537 7.170 3300 rpm loosened front shocks 2 clicks on this pass. car felt like it hesitated or spun smooth
1.510 7.115 3300 rpm
1.525 7.139 3300 rpm
1.520 7.152 3300 rpm car felt like it hesitated or spun smooth
1.515 7.134 3100 rpm
1.528 NA 3100 rpm I let off because it was a race and I was ahead so I have no good ET
1.527 NA 3100 rpm let off again
1.545 NA 3200 rpm let off again car hesitated/spun smooth
1.521 7.131 3000 rpm
1.533 7.145 3000 rpm let off just a little on ET
1.520 7.132 3000 rpm
1.519 7.141 3000 rpm
1.526 7.142 3000 rpm
1.526 7.144 3000 rpm
1.532 7.152 3000 rpm On this run my trans temp was higher than all the rest because I didn't have time to cool the trans before the run.
1.517 7.122 3000 rpm This is the only run in the left lane, so it probably can't compare to the right lane numbers.

It was very very windy all day. Its hard to get consistent numbers anyway when its this windy, but it did pretty good after I started launching at 3k.

I placed a mark on the wheel and tire and noticed it moved about 1 inch over the course of the night.

I noticed if I launch over 3k rpm, that is when it does this random spin or stall.

When I launch at 3k rpm I can't get my RTs good enough. I can get a good light, but I am not feeling the light like I should. I am having to anticipate the light and its hard to get consistant lights when other cars with times close to mine race me because its harder to hit the light with the other persons light flashing beside it.
If I launch at 3300 RPM, I can hit the sweet spot I need to get consistant lights no matter if I am racing someone or not.
I need the car to get off the line in less time so I can get my RTs constant.
I think the front tire is a 26" I wonder if I could use a smaller tire to lower rollout.
I am thinking about raising the front a little more. Here are some pics from this week:







You can see the tire wrinkle down track