Those who have !ABS--->
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From: Springfield, IL
Those who have !ABS---> I still haven't removed my ABS module yet due to some concerns about how easy it would be to re-install it if I decided to sell the car.
I'm planning on putting a Wilwood proportioning valve in its place, but I don't know if I will need to modify the lines much (or replace them?) by doing this. So for those that have done it, what kind of modifying on the lines did you do?
I'm planning on putting a Wilwood proportioning valve in its place, but I don't know if I will need to modify the lines much (or replace them?) by doing this. So for those that have done it, what kind of modifying on the lines did you do?
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: ChIcAgO
The front brake line from the master is bigger than the ones coming out of the ABS module. I went to a local auto store and bought a fitting to make the front brake line 3/16. I was then able to cut off the factory bubble ends of the brake lines coming from the ABS module, replace the fittings with standard 3/16 fittings, double flare the original lines and tee them together. Total cost was about 10 bucks. Not too sure id be able to put the ABS back on though. When you cut the factory bubble flare off, you barely have enough space to reflare it to the 3/16 fitting. You could always buy the ABS Delete block, but to me its kinda pricey. If I knew how to post a pic, I could take one for ya.
my buddy did basically what Dr. Boost is describing and there's no way he could put the ABS back on the car without some basically re doing all the lines in the car..the pain in the butt factor would be really high.
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From: Springfield, IL
That's kind of what I was afraid of...
Does anybody know what thread size/type the lines use from the factory?
I'd also prefer to stay away from the ABS delete block. I know it's a quality piece, but the weight isn't worth the price for me.
Does anybody know what thread size/type the lines use from the factory?
I'd also prefer to stay away from the ABS delete block. I know it's a quality piece, but the weight isn't worth the price for me.
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From: Clarkston
With my skinnies up front, my ABS doesn't work anyway so I plan to take it off. However, it triggers both the ABS and Brake lights. Is this just the way it's going to be or is there some way around it. Don't care about the ABS but I'd like to have a working brake light!!
Mark
Mark
skinnies shouldn't be doing that..only that that should cause that is if your back tires are alot taller than your front tires..unless you are running some really short tire up front somehow but i don't know what tire that could be.
mine used to do it when i had a 28" et drag out back, now that i'm back to 26" et street with skinnies my abs works fine again. never used to work with the 28's in back.
mine used to do it when i had a 28" et drag out back, now that i'm back to 26" et street with skinnies my abs works fine again. never used to work with the 28's in back.
Originally Posted by DR.BOOST
The front brake line from the master is bigger than the ones coming out of the ABS module. I went to a local auto store and bought a fitting to make the front brake line 3/16. I was then able to cut off the factory bubble ends of the brake lines coming from the ABS module, replace the fittings with standard 3/16 fittings, double flare the original lines and tee them together. Total cost was about 10 bucks. Not too sure id be able to put the ABS back on though. When you cut the factory bubble flare off, you barely have enough space to reflare it to the 3/16 fitting. You could always buy the ABS Delete block, but to me its kinda pricey. If I knew how to post a pic, I could take one for ya.
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