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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
I just had a 1.68 60 on hoosier qtp's and a 3500 rpm dump. I had a 1.70 when I was slipping the clutch out ,but the stock clutch once its hot is toast so dumping it fixed me up for the night. I have been 1.53 on a stock 10 bolt and et streets on the spray in my old 6spd car at 3600 lbs. I went 10.95 at 122 on that pass and drove it home. I considered myself lucky that night lol.
One thing I noticed that is a GM untouched 10 bolt tend to live longer then something fitted with a aftermarket gear set, must be something just in the torque specs, and tolerence.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 99TransAmLS16Spd
You're not getting the point.... Not everybody has $2,500-$4,000 to throw at a stronger rear end set up. I do not professionally race my car, but I do love test n tunes and midnight events. I see SUVs running 16s at these events. I consider my low 11's fun - even if I wasn't at the "full potential".
If you're going to knock us for babying 10 bolts, then you're basically knocking everybody running a stock bottom end, or not running nitrous, not running higher stalls or taller gears, ect because they are not "learing how to race"
But you have a LME 400+" engine, Level 5 T-56, and a OZ700 clutch with a stock rear??
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
One thing I noticed that is a GM untouched 10 bolt tend to live longer then something fitted with a aftermarket gear set, must be something just in the torque specs, and tolerence.


I had 4.10's in it the only reason the stock untouched ones last longer is the 3.42 pinion gear is bigger there fore it is stronger.
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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I figured as much, makes great sense.
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ATwelveSec02Z28
But you have a LME 400+" engine, Level 5 T-56, and a OZ700 clutch with a stock rear??
Not anymore - I've upgraded to a MWC 9" spool, 4.11 aluminum strange center, 35 spline axels - the works. Haven't been to the track with it yet. I'll also be running 28" stiff side wall slicks...should make for some good et's. The ten bolt I had had a mac cover, welded tubes, motive 3.73 gears, and ran on royal purple - so it wasn't stock but also didn't have too much money into it.

My point to the other yo yo was, who the heck is he to tell me what I can and can't race? I was running very low 11's on the ten bolt- which was quicker than many of the guys with upgraded rears. And it made sense to me to get my motor combo together first so I could deturming the best gear to run, instended of simply guessing.
Now that I've upgraded rear ends, is he going to tell me I need to upgrade to a solid roller to get the most out my combo? It kinda sound like he belongs in our current pool of politicians....
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 11:11 PM
  #26  
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Also, much of the reason you see sheared ring gears is because the axel tubes on a ten bolt flex (pull forward) on hard accel/load. This pulls the ring gear from the pinion. Take a look at pics of exploded gears - it's almost always the outer portion of the gear thats messed up - which is an indication of this happening.
This is where the cover w/ bearing support, welded tubes, and back braces come into play. Think about it - most after market rears come with a "backbrace" option, even though they use heavy tubing w/ a 3" diameter. The stock 10 bolt's tubing is thinner and I believe only 2 3/4" diameter
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 99TransAmLS16Spd

My point to the other yo yo was, who the heck is he to tell me what I can and can't race? I was running very low 11's on the ten bolt- which was quicker than many of the guys with upgraded rears. And it made sense to me to get my motor combo together first so I could deturming the best gear to run, instended of simply guessing.
Now that I've upgraded rear ends, is he going to tell me I need to upgrade to a solid roller to get the most out my combo? It kinda sound like he belongs in our current pool of politicians....
Sounds like you can't read.

But your an moron who wants to harp on one thing I did not even say. So that goes to show you the pool of talented, and knowledgable people on LS1tech has dwindle a great deal.

Sad to say I spoke with a few people, some are Mods here, and they said, stay away. Well I thought I could fix stupid but I guess I can't.

For the last time, this has nothing to do with running with the best parts to make the most out of the combo.

It has to do with racing a t-56 transmission on a 10 bolt rear. Its a recipe for disaster and you do NOTHING but waste money. Save for a good rear and go for a time slip.

But again, I do not expect you to come back with anything that actually makes sense.
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #28  
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Look, I will agree with you that when you're running with a ten bolt you are on borrowed time - like you said. But simply because somebody chooses to run on a ten bolt (or cannot afford an aftermarket rear), and takes it easy on their launches does not mean they are a moron.

I know i did not get the most out of my engine last year because I had to go easy on the launches. But I do feel I got the most out of my combo. Just like the guy limiting the spray on their stock bottom end, I had to limit my launches on the 10 bolt. I know it does not make sense to everybody. But in my case, I felt it made more sense to take advantage of the sale prices I got on my T56 and 416 - which saved me $2000 instead of not getting one of those two and buying a rear end instead.
And it worked out for me in terms of et and mph. I could have bought a rear and not the engine, and with my old combo maybe would have ran an 11.3x but with a real stong 60'. But instead I went the engine route and ran 11.0x's - 11.1x's with weak 60' times. Which one wins in a race?
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