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m6 on 10 bolts

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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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Default m6 on 10 bolts

what are you guys coming out of the hole at with your 10 bolt on some stickies while going easy on your rear?
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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i was leaving at around 2500rpm on crap street tires and i cut a 2.2 60ft with a bone stock car. stickies are bad news for the 10 bolt i wouldnt leave above 1500rpm. and dont just let the clutch out slip it
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 12:53 PM
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slipping the clutch out at bout 2300rpm with 4.10s auburn posi and 28" hoosier slicks i was cutting consistent 1.600s.
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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A good comparison would be kick boxing with glass legs. I broke an axle and three sets of gears in a 3 week period leaving at 1500-2500 RPM on MT ET Street Radials. The axle broke on the one time I dumped the clutch and the gears broke slipping the clutch. Just make sure you have a plan to get the car home if/when it breaks.
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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I would usually leave around 3,500rpm slipping the clutch on the 26" et street radials. As the tires got older, the 60's became less consistent - but were usually around 1.70-1.75 when the rubber was still soft.
Not good for the clutch, not too hard on the rear. Rear still sounded like stock when I pulled it out in favor of the mwc 9". this was behind my LME 416 making good power
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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I've mad about 10 or so 4500 RPM launches. . . a couple on nitrous kicking at WOT. . .

BTW, I've replaced my 10-bolt once and repaired it once. . .

NASCAR fans hear "Rubbin's racin'", well dragway fans get "breakin's racin'"
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 06:34 AM
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There is no such thing as going "Easy" on the rear.

You want a number??

The you need to go OFF THE LIMITER.

If your not doing that, go home, save some pennies and buy a rear that can handle it, otherwise your wasting time.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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what is the 60 ft record on a stock 10 bolt m6?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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I have a pile of scrap metal from 9" M6 launches with stock internals... the 10bolt is on limited time even with street tires. The dif's cant handle it, the axles are too small, the ring and pinions are weak...

Bottomline - if your babying the car to keep the 10 bolt from breaking, youre leaving way too much on the table and in drag racing what fun is that?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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I am hitting 2.00's the best I hit was a 1.96 on streets and my stock ten bolt bolt leaving around 2300-2400. My cars pretty stock though. I wouldn't run any dr's on it unless I had a friend with a trailer and an extra 2500 for a new rear.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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I got in a few 1.63's and 1.65's before letting go. . .on ET Drags
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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If you have a good clutch and sticky tires your rear wont last long at all. Stock clutches slip just enough to keep the 10bolt around for a while.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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****, my car wont even come outta the garage thanks to that 10 bolt pile of junk haha
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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ANY mid to low 1.5s been cut on a 10 bolt m6?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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To those that say there's no point in "going easy" with a 10 bolt, you're nuts... There is a difference in going easy and being the ignorant guy that dumps the clutch at 5,500rpm and splatters his 10 bolt all over the launch pad
I was finally able to justify the big money for my rear set up this year, but last year on the 10 bolt I had a lot of fun going 11.0Xs-11.2Xs as opposed to mearly staying home because I couldn't get everything out of it.... and yes I babied it with my LME 416, lv 5 T56, and OZ 700 clutch. Much better than staying home...
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 99TransAmLS16Spd
To those that say there's no point in "going easy" with a 10 bolt, you're nuts... There is a difference in going easy and being the ignorant guy that dumps the clutch at 5,500rpm and splatters his 10 bolt all over the launch pad
I was finally able to justify the big money for my rear set up this year, but last year on the 10 bolt I had a lot of fun going 11.0Xs-11.2Xs as opposed to mearly staying home because I couldn't get everything out of it.... and yes I babied it with my LME 416, lv 5 T56, and OZ 700 clutch. Much better than staying home...

exactly my point. why stay home and do nothing wen u can still get some quick runs in. its not its full potential but at least ur having fun
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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But what you BOTH are forgetting is there is a difference between having "Fun" and Racing, which means you need to be competitive.

If you want to take a car with a set up that has a potential low 11 sec run in and go **** around and pull off high 13's while getting your doors blown in, then by all means go ahead.

The one thing your NOT learning the car and learning how to race it as everything your doing to baby the car, such as clutch slipping, bogging, short shifting and limping off the line, your not racing it.

Everyone needs seat time, and getting on the starting line si a good way to shake off nerves but in the end, these car with their average race weight between 3800-4200, 2.66 gear in 1st and iffy 3.42's will make it where it needs to be launched in a a HIGH rpm.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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I just had a 1.68 60 on hoosier qtp's and a 3500 rpm dump. I had a 1.70 when I was slipping the clutch out ,but the stock clutch once its hot is toast so dumping it fixed me up for the night. I have been 1.53 on a stock 10 bolt and et streets on the spray in my old 6spd car at 3600 lbs. I went 10.95 at 122 on that pass and drove it home. I considered myself lucky that night lol.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
But what you BOTH are forgetting is there is a difference between having "Fun" and Racing, which means you need to be competitive.

If you want to take a car with a set up that has a potential low 11 sec run in and go **** around and pull off high 13's while getting your doors blown in, then by all means go ahead.

The one thing your NOT learning the car and learning how to race it as everything your doing to baby the car, such as clutch slipping, bogging, short shifting and limping off the line, your not racing it.

Everyone needs seat time, and getting on the starting line si a good way to shake off nerves but in the end, these car with their average race weight between 3800-4200, 2.66 gear in 1st and iffy 3.42's will make it where it needs to be launched in a a HIGH rpm.
You're not getting the point.... Not everybody has $2,500-$4,000 to throw at a stronger rear end set up. I do not professionally race my car, but I do love test n tunes and midnight events. I see SUVs running 16s at these events. I consider my low 11's fun - even if I wasn't at the "full potential".
If you're going to knock us for babying 10 bolts, then you're basically knocking everybody running a stock bottom end, or not running nitrous, not running higher stalls or taller gears, ect because they are not "learing how to race"
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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The funny part is you know nothing about me and what I find funnier is I do not flaunt anything that I do.

I AM that guy who had fun and got tired of getting his *** kicked, looking like a jerk off and decided put foot to *** by learning from people who know more then me and taking what they seriously.

If your not breakin, your not racing and what you are doing is not racing. At best your making it take longer for me to get to the starting line, laying water down at the starting line from the water box and at best keeping the pavement warm.

Everyone needs to learn from somewhere and I get that, but make NO mistake, the Original Poster asked a question in the vein of whether he could PUSH the car and let the stock part survive and the simple answer is....

Yes it may survive, but it is on borrowed time.
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