m6 on 10 bolts
Not good for the clutch, not too hard on the rear. Rear still sounded like stock when I pulled it out in favor of the mwc 9". this was behind my LME 416 making good power
BTW, I've replaced my 10-bolt once and repaired it once. . .

NASCAR fans hear "Rubbin's racin'", well dragway fans get "breakin's racin'"
You want a number??
The you need to go OFF THE LIMITER.
If your not doing that, go home, save some pennies and buy a rear that can handle it, otherwise your wasting time.
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Bottomline - if your babying the car to keep the 10 bolt from breaking, youre leaving way too much on the table and in drag racing what fun is that?
I was finally able to justify the big money for my rear set up this year, but last year on the 10 bolt I had a lot of fun going 11.0Xs-11.2Xs as opposed to mearly staying home because I couldn't get everything out of it.... and yes I babied it with my LME 416, lv 5 T56, and OZ 700 clutch. Much better than staying home...
I was finally able to justify the big money for my rear set up this year, but last year on the 10 bolt I had a lot of fun going 11.0Xs-11.2Xs as opposed to mearly staying home because I couldn't get everything out of it.... and yes I babied it with my LME 416, lv 5 T56, and OZ 700 clutch. Much better than staying home...
exactly my point. why stay home and do nothing wen u can still get some quick runs in. its not its full potential but at least ur having fun
If you want to take a car with a set up that has a potential low 11 sec run in and go **** around and pull off high 13's while getting your doors blown in, then by all means go ahead.
The one thing your NOT learning the car and learning how to race it as everything your doing to baby the car, such as clutch slipping, bogging, short shifting and limping off the line, your not racing it.
Everyone needs seat time, and getting on the starting line si a good way to shake off nerves but in the end, these car with their average race weight between 3800-4200, 2.66 gear in 1st and iffy 3.42's will make it where it needs to be launched in a a HIGH rpm.
If you want to take a car with a set up that has a potential low 11 sec run in and go **** around and pull off high 13's while getting your doors blown in, then by all means go ahead.
The one thing your NOT learning the car and learning how to race it as everything your doing to baby the car, such as clutch slipping, bogging, short shifting and limping off the line, your not racing it.
Everyone needs seat time, and getting on the starting line si a good way to shake off nerves but in the end, these car with their average race weight between 3800-4200, 2.66 gear in 1st and iffy 3.42's will make it where it needs to be launched in a a HIGH rpm.
If you're going to knock us for babying 10 bolts, then you're basically knocking everybody running a stock bottom end, or not running nitrous, not running higher stalls or taller gears, ect because they are not "learing how to race"
I AM that guy who had fun and got tired of getting his *** kicked, looking like a jerk off and decided put foot to *** by learning from people who know more then me and taking what they seriously.
If your not breakin, your not racing and what you are doing is not racing. At best your making it take longer for me to get to the starting line, laying water down at the starting line from the water box and at best keeping the pavement warm.
Everyone needs to learn from somewhere and I get that, but make NO mistake, the Original Poster asked a question in the vein of whether he could PUSH the car and let the stock part survive and the simple answer is....
Yes it may survive, but it is on borrowed time.


