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SJM ABS delete and line lock

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Old 04-09-2010, 07:58 PM
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You have to cut your, factory lines and reflare them to connect to the sjm lines. And you can get rid of the abs light by grounding the light green wire (B2) that goes into your electronic brake module wich is under the dash/kickpanel on the drivers side.
Old 04-10-2010, 11:36 AM
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I got the regular kit and it works great, I installed it with the engine in the car so I did it a little different from the instructions. Instead of cutting the lines and putting the T down by the frame rails I ran the factory lines up and put the T right under the solenoid.
I drive my car a lot in the Washington weather so excuse the dirty engine bay.



Old 05-23-2011, 07:24 AM
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Default EBCM delete

I see 2 pieces 1. a proportional valve & 2. I believe a line lock.

? to delete the OEM EBCM is 2. optional? I'm thinking not since there are 2 lines coming from the master cylinder.

? how hard was adjusting the proportional valve if any was required.

?adjusting is the like settings on the *** like 100% -0%

or was this adjusting done by seat of the pants?

Lastly how are you guys liking none ABS on the street, like when you slam on the brakes the fronts lock up an slide like old fashioned brakes correct?

Thanks
Old 05-23-2011, 09:16 AM
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Call Steve at SJM, he can tell you how to get the ABS light to go out without having to pull the bulb out.
Old 05-23-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Low N Slow
"Instead of cutting the lines and putting the T down by the frame rails I ran the factory lines up and put the T right under the solenoid."
Low N Slow ... so did you leave the stock lines completely intact with no cutting of the stock lines at all?

Without having a set of instructions (cannot find a set any place on the Web), it is difficult to determine if I can install this setup in a way that it is completely reversible back to stock.
Old 05-23-2011, 06:17 PM
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tip for cutting the stock lines, and putting a 3 1/16 fitting on a double flair on them. Do it in a strait part of the tubing so it round obliviously. But use a abrasive cutoff wheel to make you cut, then dedurr and sqare up then end with a countersink, or a bigger drill bit in your hand and a hand file. Even a good brake tubing cutter, with a new cutting wheel for some reason messes with the tube and it will leak more often.
Old 05-23-2011, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
tip for cutting the stock lines, and putting a 3 1/16 fitting on a double flair on them. Do it in a strait part of the tubing so it round obliviously. But use a abrasive cutoff wheel to make you cut, then dedurr and sqare up then end with a countersink, or a bigger drill bit in your hand and a hand file. Even a good brake tubing cutter, with a new cutting wheel for some reason messes with the tube and it will leak more often.
I agree. When flaring, make sure the flair goes down even. work slowly, using a flathead screwdriver as a spacer on the side that goes down quicker. staying straight is key to no leaks. I know from experience to take your time.
Old 05-23-2011, 07:05 PM
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stock lines are hard as ****, not soft like replacment line, you need a good flare tool also.


ya, after you do the 1st setup, look IN the flair if the hole is still centerd and round. if its not you didn't have the end cut square, its not impossable but a hear alot of guys saying they had leaks. You have to do the 1st step good and everything after that, you can't cheat of over anything up.
Old 05-24-2011, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BrianSF-GA
Low N Slow ... so did you leave the stock lines completely intact with no cutting of the stock lines at all?

Without having a set of instructions (cannot find a set any place on the Web), it is difficult to determine if I can install this setup in a way that it is completely reversible back to stock.
I contacted this SJM co. yesterday asking if they could scan and email the instructions they say expect a response in one day if they actualley send these instructions I'll post them up.

I'm kindof leary about cutting and rigging brake lines.

?1.which orginal lines require cutting.

?2.I actualley have a spare master cylinder and the 2 attached lines I think the only way I would get a kit like this is if I could send in my spare lines to have fittings professionally flared on.

PS I will contact SJM to see if this is possiable.
if not I'm a couple steps away from sending the relay portion of my EBCM off for a rebuild. $165. w/ 5 year warrenty.

Last edited by badmfkr; 05-24-2011 at 06:00 AM.
Old 05-24-2011, 10:08 AM
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I reused the stock braided lines on mine.
Attached Thumbnails SJM ABS delete and line lock-100_1432.jpg  
Old 05-24-2011, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
I contacted this SJM co. yesterday asking if they could scan and email the instructions they say expect a response in one day if they actualley send these instructions I'll post them up.

I'm kindof leary about cutting and rigging brake lines.

?1.which orginal lines require cutting.

?2.I actualley have a spare master cylinder and the 2 attached lines I think the only way I would get a kit like this is if I could send in my spare lines to have fittings professionally flared on.

PS I will contact SJM to see if this is possiable.
if not I'm a couple steps away from sending the relay portion of my EBCM off for a rebuild. $165. w/ 5 year warrenty.
Thanks badmfkr ... I would really like to see those instructions. I plan to install the SJM ABS Delete/Line Lock, but like you, I do not want to cut my brake lines. With this economy, I want to be sure I am able to demod this car, sell the mods and return to stock for a future sale.

The only reason I am interested in the ABS delete is that I am currently putting in a spooled S60 and the spool was not availalbe with a 3-channel reluctor ... so, no ABS.
Old 05-24-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
I reused the stock braided lines on mine.
Perfect ... thanks Z28/2002. I was hoping I could install it just as you did. Judging from your photo, your are obviously an LS car (braided lines) and seeing you have four brake lines and not three, you are also a 4-channel (Traction Control car). That's the only difference from mine, I have only a single line to the rear (3-channel ABS only car).

What did you do with your harness? Is it wrapped with the electrical tape in the background?
Old 05-24-2011, 12:07 PM
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Yeah it's a 4 channel LS car, I had to cut the fittings off the stock lines and use the ones in the kit. Burkhart has one that I think reuses the stock fittings.

Here is the link to Burkhart's

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html



I went through the wiring harness and took out all the wires that I'm not using (i'm running a carb). Pulled them out of the fuse boxes and reloomed everything.

Last edited by Z28/2002; 05-24-2011 at 12:26 PM.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
Yeah it's a 4 channel LS car, I had to cut the fittings off the stock lines and use the ones in the kit. Burkhart has one that I think reuses the stock fittings.

Here is the link to Burkhart's

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html

I went through the wiring harness and took out all the wires that I'm not using (i'm running a carb). Pulled them out of the fuse boxes and reloomed everything.
Damn ... and here I was think it was boing to be bolt-in. Are the stock male NTP end fittings different sizes than the female NPT connection to the solenoid and proportioning valve?
Old 05-24-2011, 01:13 PM
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Just cut your stock lines in a place that leave you enough room to make extentions and reuse them in the future. OH and I forgot all about this thread. Finished mine a long time ago. Heres some pics.

Old 05-24-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianSF-GA
Damn ... and here I was think it was boing to be bolt-in. Are the stock male NTP end fittings different sizes than the female NPT connection to the solenoid and proportioning valve?
Yes the fittings are different
Old 05-24-2011, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
Yeah it's a 4 channel LS car, I had to cut the fittings off the stock lines and use the ones in the kit. Burkhart has one that I think reuses the stock fittings.

Here is the link to Burkhart's

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html



I went through the wiring harness and took out all the wires that I'm not using (i'm running a carb). Pulled them out of the fuse boxes and reloomed everything.
Are you saying that the Burkhart is a plug and play without cutting the lines?
Old 05-25-2011, 12:50 AM
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I used this kit a couple of years ago with great success and just cut the original flare off of the braided lines and left enough room incase I needed to reflare them in the future. I considered the Burkhart kit but having that aluminum block doesn't look as clean as the SJM kit. Now I have Burkharts spindles and brakes and I'm just going to run all new hard line. This kit was great when I thought I might demod the car.
Old 05-25-2011, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BayAreaSS
Are you saying that the Burkhart is a plug and play without cutting the lines?
I would call to confirm but looks like it does
Old 05-25-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
I would call to confirm but looks like it does
Ok thanks. I planned on buying the sjm but if I can get the burkhart and don't have to cut the lines the extra money is worth it.


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