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SJM ABS delete and line lock

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Old May 28, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
Yeah it's a 4 channel LS car, I had to cut the fittings off the stock lines and use the ones in the kit. Burkhart has one that I think reuses the stock fittings.

Here is the link to Burkhart's

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id84.html



I went through the wiring harness and took out all the wires that I'm not using (i'm running a carb). Pulled them out of the fuse boxes and reloomed everything.
SJM is unwilling to scan and send instructions there response was "If you can bleed brakes, flare a few lines on your car and use basic power tools i.e. drill, wrench and screwdriver, the install is rather basic as the kit is essentially pre-assembled ready for install. You don’t even need Teflon tape or have to deal with 30 parts to assemble or lines to bend.

that being quoted I'm reailing on the LS1tech experts on advice.

I'm wondering when to use a drill on a ABS delete kit, I never assumme anything, assumming that the drill is to drill the strut tower for mounting the proposional valve?

my car is a 99 WS6

?1. the image I attach of an LT1 car has a illistration of where the LS1 ABS EBCM is located so are the lines coming from the master cylinder are they bent or are they replaced w/ pre bent lines included in kit?

?2.in you'r next post you say you had to cut lines and use the kits fittings.
exactly which lines where cut.

?3.I'm thinking that the flexiable lines that connect to the bottom of the EBCM
are simply dissconnected then connected to Ts. of the kit.

Sorry to sound so stupid I'm real leary of rigging brake lines
Thanks
Attached Thumbnails SJM ABS delete and line lock-abs1.jpg  
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Old May 30, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
SJM is unwilling to scan and send instructions there response was "If you can bleed brakes, flare a few lines on your car and use basic power tools i.e. drill, wrench and screwdriver, the install is rather basic as the kit is essentially pre-assembled ready for install. You don’t even need Teflon tape or have to deal with 30 parts to assemble or lines to bend.

that being quoted I'm reailing on the LS1tech experts on advice.

I'm wondering when to use a drill on a ABS delete kit, I never assumme anything, assumming that the drill is to drill the strut tower for mounting the proposional valve?

my car is a 99 WS6

?1. the image I attach of an LT1 car has a illistration of where the LS1 ABS EBCM is located so are the lines coming from the master cylinder are they bent or are they replaced w/ pre bent lines included in kit?

?2.in you'r next post you say you had to cut lines and use the kits fittings.
exactly which lines where cut.

?3.I'm thinking that the flexiable lines that connect to the bottom of the EBCM
are simply dissconnected then connected to Ts. of the kit.

Sorry to sound so stupid I'm real leary of rigging brake lines
Thanks
The lines coming from the master cylinder are replaced with the brake lines that are provided in the kit. One brake line goes to the line lock for the front and another line goes to the rear for the proportion valve. You will need a drill to mount the line lock and the proportion valve. The only cutting needed to be done is cutting the flares off of the braided line and then replacing the fittings then reflare the lines. The braided lines will connect to the T's and one set of braided lines leads to the front and another set leads to the rears. The install is pretty straight forward and the only thing I can recommend is to buy a good flare tool because the stock lines are pretty hard. Also, I recommend only cutting the minimum amount off of the braided lines because there isn't much room between the braided portion and the where the hard line ends. I will agree that SJM has done all of the work they can do short of having the car at their shop.
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TurboStangJON
" .... The only cutting needed to be done is cutting the flares off of the braided line and then replacing the fittings then reflare the lines. The braided lines will connect to the T's and one set of braided lines leads to the front and another set leads to the rears.
I understand the brake lines are metric, but can one not use bushings/adapters to connect the stock lines to the tee (front lines) and proportioning valve (rear line) and not cut and re-flare the stock lines?
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BrianSF-GA
I understand the brake lines are metric, but can one not use bushings/adapters to connect the stock lines to the tee (front lines) and proportioning valve (rear line) and not cut and re-flare the stock lines?
I might be wrong but I believe the flares for the ABS module are bubble flares and I don't think you can find an adapter. The line being metric doesn't matter because it's so close to 3/16 that you can use a 3/16 nut. I think this is what SJM ran into and why it's not a complete "Bolt-In" installation. Honestly, if you're worried about cutting the lines just buy the Burkhart kit which I believe doesn't require any of the cutting. However, most of us are doing this for weight and in order to clear up some room so keeping that metal bracket is what made shy away from that kit. I think if what you are talking about was possible someone would have came up with a kit.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #45  
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they make the fittings, but its the length and amount of stock lines going into the ABS block, The linelock only has one inlet fitting, It dose not look that good having the 4 lenghts of the stock lines with the braided sections on the ends, going into a T then into the line lock, and the other port on the master. (check post 30) There end up around the top of the fender well right in eye sight all the fittings, and long looped braided ends. Cutting them under the braids and putting the T there just looks a little better, less junk in the way to work on the car, and lighter.

Last edited by studderin; Jun 3, 2011 at 07:30 AM.
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