Edit- last vid was the 11.56 pass, I guess I didn't get one of the 11.48 run.

 

Yeah I shift at 6200 and go through the traps right around 6k. I just saw the vid in your sig, damn good driving, I need to start shifting like that again...

 

 

Thanks man, alot of people always tell me i shift fast but when i am in the car it seems like an eternity going into the next gear. I feel like i am forcing it into the next gear, its not bad from 1st to 2nd but 2nd to 3rd feels worse then 3rd to 4th just takes forever.

Gonna change the clutch fluid and maybe see what the trans fluid looks like. I will probably start shifting at 6200 to 6300 and see if i can no lift shift again. 2nd to 3rd rpm has been dropping down to 4600 and 3rd to 4th is about 4400 but 1st to 2nd it goes down to 5300 lol. Hopefully it will help some.

 

It sounds like you're short shifting 3rd? The only shift I ever have an issue with is 3rd, friday was the 1st time I've ever missed 4th, not sure what happened...

 

Seems like i have a problem with every gear lately lol. Third use to be a big issue but its ok. No problem since the shifter plate i put on it to keep it out of 5th 6th and reverse.

Your right about it sounding bad on the 3rd to 4th shift, alot of it has to do with how much the rpm's drop between those gears and me shifting at 5700 to 6000rpm. Thats the reasoning to wanting to shift at around 6200 to 6300 rpm now. My dyno graph shows that i am making good power up top and that i would basically make more overall power shifting that high vs shifting a little lower.

 

I was running 11.50's-11.60's with issues hooking with those gears and tires.

The by chance I got a set of 28" ET Drags, hit the track and the damn thing was dead hooking but bogging down. Bogging so bad it slowed the car.

Swapped to a 4.56 gear and DAYUM! Dead hook low 1.5 60's, lost a MPH but dropped to the consistance low 11.40's.

Yeah the bitch was screaming through the traps but it worked and held together.

If 4.56 is too much there are about 5 ratios between.

The bigger tire that turns slower is going to bite better.

 

Yeah I wanted to go 4.56's but once I get the tune right I'm hoping it will trap between 122-124 and that already has me at the limiter.

 

It would be nice to try that, i have always been curious to what it would do. I do think the 4.56 would be way to much tho cause the 2.97 first gear. I think i could definately use some better weight transfer, still runnin all stock front suspension. The next thing i want is definately a set of double adjustables for the front. Probably the only thing i will change is to a 28 inch tire eventually for nitrous and newer motor whenever that will happen lol. Funds are not allowing me to do much right now.

 

What tire and size are you running? Did not sound like you had a two step in the videos.

 

S/S and P/S NHRA cars run 28x9 tires because of the taller sidewall. Works especially good with a stick car. I think you would run much quicker if you swapped to a 4.30 geqar and 28x9 tire. Put a set of LS6 valve springs so you can rev it a liitte higher without valve float. You can shift 300-400 rpms higher than peak horsepower and go through the traps 300-400 higher than that for you best results. That gear tire combo should allow 125 mph or so at 6500 so if you were trapping 120 ish would prob put you through the traps around 6200- 6300.

 

I'm running a Hoosier 325 dr. Didn't even bother to drop the pressure as I was more concerned with the tune. My 60's should be much better next time, I'll have the 2-step back on and will be running on slicks and hopefully I'll have my shock fixed. Also hoping to have my ramair intake done by then.

 

Im running a 4.30 and a 28x9 but i cannt get it to 60ft better the mid to low 1.7s

 

Sounds good, post pics of the ram air when you get done. I need a better ram air setup on mine but i am too cheap and too lazy lol.

 

I doubt you'll want to run it like mine. Main ingredients are drier ducting, gorilla tape, and mesh fencing... No air filter either

 

I have drier ducting on mine, mine pulls air from the two holes in the grill and transistions through drier ducting to some modified peices(hard to explain), then to the slp ram air box. Still running a lid and filter on mine. Mine could be better but its mainly just to get cold air from outside of the car.

 

Yeah I know wht you're talking about, kinda like the sux2bu ramair. The one I'm doing is for track only, 2 4" ducts to a 4" Y into my existing intake pipe. Thinking about doing 2- 6" tubes feeding a 6"-4" Y

 

That sounds like it would work really well. That's basically what i want but i dont wanna cut up the area under the lid to fit the 4 inch pipe and then there is the where do i put the filters. with the y you could make it to where it would unhook for the street and put the filter on the single. I dunno i might try and see what i can do with mine.

I think the 6 inch is a good idea. I believe that the larger it starts out and shrinks down gives it the ability to push more air through it or pressurize it some.

 

It might run a little quicker with the 28x9 and 4.30 but i don't wanna spend the extra money on it. It has to be stock internal so i won't be able to change to ls6 springs. The stockers hold the rpm fairly well up to 6400 on the dyno but if i no lift shift or the rpm shoots up any it causes a little valve float.

 

Yup that's the idea. With 2 6" pipes about 1 1/2' long, it will grab more air and the only place for it to go once it hits the Y is into the little 4" pipe. If it creates even a little positive pressure it's doing its job.