My Home-Made Ram Air System. Detailed pics-check it out!
05-11-2010, 10:15 AM
#22
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I believe that the air pressure at the bumper fog lights is higher then the pressure at the Ram Air opening. If you try to use both, the pressure will equalize to the lower pressure of the two and lose the benefit of using the fog lights opening. If not sealed, you will only see the pressure of the lowest area/leak.
I believe to see a real gain you would want to use both Fog Light opening and run it to a sealed box(not foam but a true seal).
I remember years back that Patrick G. did a test and found that the WS6 sealed BG Ramiar mod actually made a pressure gain to the intake track, and also found that the pressure coming in at the Fog Light opening was close to double that of a sealed WS6 hood.
Bob
I believe to see a real gain you would want to use both Fog Light opening and run it to a sealed box(not foam but a true seal).
I remember years back that Patrick G. did a test and found that the WS6 sealed BG Ramiar mod actually made a pressure gain to the intake track, and also found that the pressure coming in at the Fog Light opening was close to double that of a sealed WS6 hood.
Bob
Definately makes sense that you would lose pressure if there is an outlet for it.
I'll put that on my to do list for sure, I'll make up a seal for it, already have something in mind of how to make it!
Thanks!!
Last edited by tektrans; 05-11-2010 at 10:17 AM. Reason: aaaa
05-13-2010, 03:26 AM
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05-13-2010, 09:52 AM
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Thanks man! I'm tellin' ya, guy just joins a couple months ago, less than 20 posts and he says (nothing "we" haven't seen b4) whatever........Hey Randy, you probably know this already but to fit it on your car you'll have to cut/notch the front support under the lower airbox. If you decide to cut out the area completely and make up a support for it, like I did keep in mind that the 2 fenders will creep in a little when you cut that piece out so you'll want to work them back out before you weld in your new support. Take measurements before you cut so you'll know how far to push the fenders out later.
05-13-2010, 12:51 PM
#29
Thanks man! I'm tellin' ya, guy just joins a couple months ago, less than 20 posts and he says (nothing "we" haven't seen b4) whatever........Hey Randy, you probably know this already but to fit it on your car you'll have to cut/notch the front support under the lower airbox. If you decide to cut out the area completely and make up a support for it, like I did keep in mind that the 2 fenders will creep in a little when you cut that piece out so you'll want to work them back out before you weld in your new support. Take measurements before you cut so you'll know how far to push the fenders out later.
05-13-2010, 01:29 PM
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Good question, I've never checked but at my next dyno session I'll ask Julio what it's reading.
I'm just thinking, I didn't get the 45degree bends from Spectre, got the silicon elbow only from them. I got the bends from Cartek a few years back, they had some stuff in a box and I went thru it. I guess check places that have turbo plumbing supplies.
I'm just thinking, I didn't get the 45degree bends from Spectre, got the silicon elbow only from them. I got the bends from Cartek a few years back, they had some stuff in a box and I went thru it. I guess check places that have turbo plumbing supplies.
05-13-2010, 02:39 PM
#32
I would think that the temp. would be a little higher, because the incoming air is closer to the pavement, were the heat is radiated from. Ive always been told the reason the WS6 RamAir make more power over the standard TA, is because of the cool air coming in the top of the hood and not from under the car were all the heat is accumulated from the road and engine.
05-18-2010, 09:54 AM
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I would think that the temp. would be a little higher, because the incoming air is closer to the pavement, were the heat is radiated from. Ive always been told the reason the WS6 RamAir make more power over the standard TA, is because of the cool air coming in the top of the hood and not from under the car were all the heat is accumulated from the road and engine.
You could argue that air coming into the foglight holes is warmer than air coming in thru the top but how much warmer could it be?
05-18-2010, 10:29 AM
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Maybe I am missing something, but are you really getting a "sealed" effect by leaving it open at the nostrils? the front of the airbox really isn't sealed to the hood.
05-18-2010, 04:32 PM
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The only way to get the GM Ramair hood to really make a different is to get the BGR Ramair kit that removes all the baffles and has a seal that actually seals the hood to the airbox.
Bob
05-18-2010, 04:58 PM
#37
I put some frost king (lowes, H D) thin strip stick on foam around the under side of my SLP lid were the flat for the filter edge it. Its like 1/2 wide 1/8 thick. 1st lid fit was tight, I had the stock bellow still so that helped. Now its worn in, and fits snugg with the 22* 4inch elbow bellow now.
05-18-2010, 05:00 PM
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I'm gonna go ahead and seal up the front of that airbox as suggested and just take in the air thru the foglight holes. I'd like to run it back to back and see if there's a difference.
I've been running it this way for years but it seems there is room for improvement.
05-18-2010, 06:08 PM
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Hey Randy, you probably know this already but to fit it on your car you'll have to cut/notch the front support under the lower airbox. If you decide to cut out the area completely and make up a support for it, like I did keep in mind that the 2 fenders will creep in a little when you cut that piece out so you'll want to work them back out before you weld in your new support. Take measurements before you cut so you'll know how far to push the fenders out later.
Of course that would only work if I actually had the room to weld in something that big. Just a thought.