is anybody running a 12" wheel?
06-01-2010, 03:07 AM
#21
I remember many years ago I had a PM conversation with CAMN HAWK about this very same thing. I think it is becoming a ton more prevalent now. I plan on running 12s on my 93 with 315s. Narrow the rear 4 / side and run a 5.5 bs wheel. It should look just like biggdogg's car.
06-01-2010, 01:03 PM
#23
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^ You think you can actually clear the LCA? Or are you planning to move the mounting points? Based off what I have seen, you can't clear that LCA if you narrow it that much with that back space.
06-01-2010, 03:13 PM
#26
I think it will clear.. right now with the 28x10.5S tire, and offset control arms I have about 7/8 of an inch from the tire. The control arm is going to come in another 3/4 of an inch from where it is, so even if the carcas of the tire is 2 inches wider, I still have some room. The new control arms are going to be built from a smaller diameter tubing as well to help the cause, I was going to go 3/4 inch tubing, but the thickest wall stuff I can find so there's no strength compromise. This should also help the cause some, providing I can find material that's right.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
06-01-2010, 06:29 PM
#27
Yeah, I may end up around 4.25 / 4.5 to bring the wheels in and drop the car down a little more. It's all mostly just plans though as my car is about as far taken apart as it could possibly be and I have no money to spend on it. I guess it is fun to plan though. I have those same pictures of the white TA saved on my computer.
06-01-2010, 06:37 PM
#28
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I think it will clear.. right now with the 28x10.5S tire, and offset control arms I have about 7/8 of an inch from the tire. The control arm is going to come in another 3/4 of an inch from where it is, so even if the carcas of the tire is 2 inches wider, I still have some room. The new control arms are going to be built from a smaller diameter tubing as well to help the cause, I was going to go 3/4 inch tubing, but the thickest wall stuff I can find so there's no strength compromise. This should also help the cause some, providing I can find material that's right.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
06-01-2010, 07:19 PM
#29
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I remember many years ago I had a PM conversation with CAMN HAWK about this very same thing. I think it is becoming a ton more prevalent now. I plan on running 12s on my 93 with 315s. Narrow the rear 4 / side and run a 5.5 bs wheel. It should look just like biggdogg's car.
06-01-2010, 08:37 PM
#30
Yeah, if it clears it's going to be a tight fit. We've done a few cars with 15x12s and 3.25" narrow and 6" BS will sit you inside the 1/4 panel. With 315 radials on that setup we had roughly 0.25" clearance between a 1" LCA with it spaced as far away as you could. Rear end bracket narrowed.
The 29.5S tire I want to run is a touch smaller though so I have a touch more room to play.
06-02-2010, 08:40 AM
#31
How do you plan to run a larger than 3/4" rod end on thick wall 3/4" od tubing? You couldn't even run a 3/4" end in 3/4" tubing. That's why companies use 1.25 x .095 wall tubing and 3/4-16 tube adapters, as a standard. I don't know why you are planning on increasing the rod end size, most 3/4's are rated at 29,000 lbs ea. You could get a qa1 8-12 which is a 3/4 end with a 1/2 bolt hole drill the lca mounts to 1/2" from 12mm and Eli
minate the aluminum bushings and get a stronger rod end.
minate the aluminum bushings and get a stronger rod end.
I think it will clear.. right now with the 28x10.5S tire, and offset control arms I have about 7/8 of an inch from the tire. The control arm is going to come in another 3/4 of an inch from where it is, so even if the carcas of the tire is 2 inches wider, I still have some room. The new control arms are going to be built from a smaller diameter tubing as well to help the cause, I was going to go 3/4 inch tubing, but the thickest wall stuff I can find so there's no strength compromise. This should also help the cause some, providing I can find material that's right.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
There's room... I have seen it done on a couple cars, there's a guy on here with a white transam that put a 15x12 inch wheel on and he narrowed the rear 5.5 inches, the lca mounts on the rear are the width of the heim joint, they had to come in, same with the phb mount, but he got it right, and tucked a 325/50 tire (minitub done too) and the car sits right down on the tire good. Control arms were built like I'm explaining, etc.
Even if I can'd do what I wanted to, the idea is to pull the tire in enough to get it inside the fender lip, so that I can lower the car down on the tire. I may have to have the 1/4's stretched outwards a 1/2 inch on each side... if I have to do that I'll do it.. but I don't think it will be needed.
06-02-2010, 05:26 PM
#33
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+1. They definitely make them. May even be able to pick up one the correct thread where you could just drill and tap the 3/4 tube and thread the rod end right in it.
06-02-2010, 05:38 PM
#34
^ That or a solid tube, square it, drill press, and progressively go larger on the size until you reach the size you're looking for. I'm sure if you contact any sort of circle track supply shop they'll be able to hook you up with what you are looking for. Probably relatively cheaply too.
06-02-2010, 07:29 PM
#35
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^ That or a solid tube, square it, drill press, and progressively go larger on the size until you reach the size you're looking for. I'm sure if you contact any sort of circle track supply shop they'll be able to hook you up with what you are looking for. Probably relatively cheaply too.
06-02-2010, 07:31 PM
#36
I think there was some 3/4 inch tubing that was pretty thick, like over 200 thick if I remember right... that might be a good idea to just tap it and thread the ball joint right into the tubing. Have to look into that... if I can do that, that would be perfect. I'm sure that would be nice and strong too... and certainly give me max tire clearance, maybe enough to pull that 29.5S tire in an inch like I want to (from stock width)
06-03-2010, 06:36 AM
#38
I'll see what I can come up with and I'll put some pictures of it up when I'm done. I talked to my fab guy about it last night, we can ptu ends on a 3/4 inch piece of tubing that will be a little larger (tubing can slide into the ends and get welded on), then have the bigger rod ends on.. this way the actual control arm is small diameter for max tire clearance, and then the ends are set up for a bigger rod end, one that accepts a 3/4 inch bolt thru the center, so we can inlarge the rear and body mounting points so that there's no alum spacer needed, and we can stack washers on one side to fill the gap, or make a steel shim.
This, along with plating the body mounts will solidify the control arm mounting points, create a set of control arms that will have a large very HD rod end on both ends, and a small diameter control arm that will give max tire clearance.
Once they're done and on my car, I'll get pictures up, car should be in the shop this fall getting everything done, build thread to follow
This, along with plating the body mounts will solidify the control arm mounting points, create a set of control arms that will have a large very HD rod end on both ends, and a small diameter control arm that will give max tire clearance.
Once they're done and on my car, I'll get pictures up, car should be in the shop this fall getting everything done, build thread to follow
06-03-2010, 07:15 PM
#39
Sounds about right. I "think" the wheel I want to run may not be available in a 15x12 with a 6 inch backspace, I "think" I will end up with a 5 inch backspace, so if that ends up being the case, a 4.25 narrow job should work.
The 29.5S tire I want to run is a touch smaller though so I have a touch more room to play.
The 29.5S tire I want to run is a touch smaller though so I have a touch more room to play.
06-03-2010, 08:05 PM
#40
We will see. I'm gonna get the wheels, and let the fab guy do his magic and hopefully, tuck them in where I hope we can get them... at least 1/2 inch in from where a stock width rear and a bogart built for a factory brake put the tire.
I know it's doable, I'm hoping for 3/4 of an inch to an inch, but that maybe too much. 1/2 inch, should be no problem at all.
I know it's doable, I'm hoping for 3/4 of an inch to an inch, but that maybe too much. 1/2 inch, should be no problem at all.