Front SA shocks and springs or slicks?
#21
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Its a 150 shot progressed at 70% for .5 of a second. I'm trying to hook out of the hole with no progression, just dont think its going to happen though. I am able to pop the wheels of the ground a few inches just on motor but with the nitrous its not getting the proper weight transfer. I could feel the front extending a little but it for the most part it will just spin. Next time out I will make sure to have a buddy watch and record me launching, if they will let him on the track behind the car. If not it will have to be from the stands or fence.
#22
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If you really want to get the radials to work, then I'd get the shocks on the car, double adjustable will be the best thing you can do.
I'd also hit the car right out of the hole with 50% and have it all in within .3, start messing with that. The radial needs to be hit hard right away and the pressure kept on it, hence the reason for the double adjustable shock.
If you do want to stop fighting it, then out a set of 26x10.5S et drags on the car, 28x10.5S if you have the room for them, and just hit that thing with everything immediately right out of the gate. NO holding back with the slick, they take the hit and it's not a problem. 26 inch tire start with about 14 psi, 28 inch start with 13.
I'd also hit the car right out of the hole with 50% and have it all in within .3, start messing with that. The radial needs to be hit hard right away and the pressure kept on it, hence the reason for the double adjustable shock.
If you do want to stop fighting it, then out a set of 26x10.5S et drags on the car, 28x10.5S if you have the room for them, and just hit that thing with everything immediately right out of the gate. NO holding back with the slick, they take the hit and it's not a problem. 26 inch tire start with about 14 psi, 28 inch start with 13.
#23
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If you really want to get the radials to work, then I'd get the shocks on the car, double adjustable will be the best thing you can do.
I'd also hit the car right out of the hole with 50% and have it all in within .3, start messing with that. The radial needs to be hit hard right away and the pressure kept on it, hence the reason for the double adjustable shock.
If you do want to stop fighting it, then out a set of 26x10.5S et drags on the car, 28x10.5S if you have the room for them, and just hit that thing with everything immediately right out of the gate. NO holding back with the slick, they take the hit and it's not a problem. 26 inch tire start with about 14 psi, 28 inch start with 13.
I'd also hit the car right out of the hole with 50% and have it all in within .3, start messing with that. The radial needs to be hit hard right away and the pressure kept on it, hence the reason for the double adjustable shock.
If you do want to stop fighting it, then out a set of 26x10.5S et drags on the car, 28x10.5S if you have the room for them, and just hit that thing with everything immediately right out of the gate. NO holding back with the slick, they take the hit and it's not a problem. 26 inch tire start with about 14 psi, 28 inch start with 13.
#24
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MWC said SA front shocks would be fine for my goals, and im prob similar power levels to you..
But i also have a frankenstein set up in the rear right now.. Koni 4/3s and stock springs*. but Strange SA + 300# springs in the front. So im not sure how its going to hook once i go to the track.
I will be running 275/60 M/T DRs
But i also have a frankenstein set up in the rear right now.. Koni 4/3s and stock springs*. but Strange SA + 300# springs in the front. So im not sure how its going to hook once i go to the track.
I will be running 275/60 M/T DRs
Last edited by sidewayz28; 06-25-2010 at 03:27 PM.
#25
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MWC said SA front shocks would be fine for my goals, and im prob similar power levels to you..
But i also have a frankenstein set up in the rear right now.. Koni 4/3s and stock shocks. but Strange SA + 300# springs in the front. So im not sure how its going to hook once i go to the track.
I will be running 275/60 M/T DRs
But i also have a frankenstein set up in the rear right now.. Koni 4/3s and stock shocks. but Strange SA + 300# springs in the front. So im not sure how its going to hook once i go to the track.
I will be running 275/60 M/T DRs
#27
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My car is more of the opposite, it sees the track way more than the street. I've been trying to build the car first, or around the motor. I want the car to be able to handle what ever I throw at it. I will have my fun with my cam, nitrous ls1 for a while, but in the next year or so I will probably move up to an LQ4 or LQ9 408 or possibly an LS3 if I can swing it.
#28
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If a big motor is something that will eventually happen, do the double adjustable now, you'll be glad you did down the road.
I know the extra $ sucks on the shocks... but trust me there's a MILE of difference from a single to a double adjustable.
I went with R series qa1's the first time around, 12 way qa1 on the rear first time around as well.
Now there's afco double adjustable on the front with the heavy nose option (gets the shock rate up there for a heavier nose car, that's what madman and burkhart reccommended) and the rears, which I haven't purchased yet, will be the same, double adjustable afco coil overs. I am doing a little different setup in the back with the shocks then most do, but when I'm ready to buy I'll be getting those from madman.
The shocks, are a huge part of getting a car to work. That will be the difference from getting the car to 60 foot a 1.3 to a bottom 1.2, which is what I'm aiming for.
In your case, I think you make enough power to get it in the bottom 1.4 to high 1.3 range, and if you do that, you'll find that power level you're at to go alot faster then you think it will. Maximize what you have, and try to buy once and not have to rebuy parts, in the long run it will save you alot of $ and time.
I know the extra $ sucks on the shocks... but trust me there's a MILE of difference from a single to a double adjustable.
I went with R series qa1's the first time around, 12 way qa1 on the rear first time around as well.
Now there's afco double adjustable on the front with the heavy nose option (gets the shock rate up there for a heavier nose car, that's what madman and burkhart reccommended) and the rears, which I haven't purchased yet, will be the same, double adjustable afco coil overs. I am doing a little different setup in the back with the shocks then most do, but when I'm ready to buy I'll be getting those from madman.
The shocks, are a huge part of getting a car to work. That will be the difference from getting the car to 60 foot a 1.3 to a bottom 1.2, which is what I'm aiming for.
In your case, I think you make enough power to get it in the bottom 1.4 to high 1.3 range, and if you do that, you'll find that power level you're at to go alot faster then you think it will. Maximize what you have, and try to buy once and not have to rebuy parts, in the long run it will save you alot of $ and time.
#31
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Yeah RPM has been taking care of me for a few years now. I didnt know radials were that much faster, but it is a head ache trying to get everything right. So doubles in the rear and singles in the front? I thought for everything to really work right the fronts needed doubles and the rears only needed singles. Not that I am questioning you guys, just trying to understand. I know you guys have the best suspension out, or so I have been told by many.
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Alright I talked to MadMan on the phone and I am taking his advise. I will go with Afco doubles on the rear and some strange singles on the front. I will have to wait a couple weeks as they are 300 bucks per shock, but I'm sure it will be worth the wait. Thanks MadMan for helping out, you will be hearing from me soon! Thanks JL ws-6 and everyone else for your replies and suggestions!