99TransAmLS16Spd

iTrader: (8)

I appologize man, I really did not intend to offend you or anyone who's made the swap. Trust me, I have thought long and hard about doing it myself. I just don't understand why you didn't drop in et. Your corrected et is 11.7 with the auto, which is only .05 better then your old setup. However I do like the point one of the other members posted about his 60' with the nitrous converter. His 60' drops 3/10ths when on the bottle, so I suspect yours should do close to the same. Nice car, and best of luck at the track

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

No worries man, I to was a little concerned with my 60ft (actually have a long thread about it) but after hearing many old schoolers and nitrous guys replies I understand that in order to make the car work on the gas the converter tends to be a little lazy on the motor. I am all about comparing apples to apples so i went back and found the fastest LS Fbody street cars at my track and broke down their best 60fts. Both are members on this board so i won't mention any names but one that runs 10.3s on the gas runs a 1.60 on motor, the other which runs 10.4s on the gas runs a 1.54 on motor. Both of these comparisons were done in awesome weather, possible neg DA or very low DA. Which since I have made the swap it's been very hot and humid here. I went back out the other night like I posted and went a 1.62 again in 2100 DA and humidity that resembled a rain forest, LOL. I truly believe that in good cold low DA weather my car should 60 in the high 1.5s on motor and at this point I have no idea about the gas. All I'm looking for right now is a 10.xx pass period, wether it's with a 1.70 60ft or a 1.30 as long as the end result is the same. I am going to keep working on the 60 however since I know 3/4 of the race happens in the first 60ft. I appreciate all the replies and different view points, sorry if I came off a little offended in my previous post.
Andy

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

Carter,

I really wonder if the dyno numbers are correct. When you change from 6 spd to th400 you have some type of a % loss in HP due to slippage unless you clutch was slipping on the dyno as well. You went from a 10 bolt to 9 inch which does take more available HP to turn due to the location of the pinion gear and shear mass of the 9 inch versus the 10 bolt.

My car has always been an auto but I can share this info. When my car had the stock 92K mile engine in it with just headers, LS1 intake and a lid with the TH400, 9 inch with 3.70 gears at 3,665lbs. it went 11.94 on a great trip to Jackson one time but would normally run 12.20's to 12.30's in the heat. Keep in mind this was on a 26 inch M/T slick leaving at 3,000 RPM's on the footbrake producing a 1.52 +/- 60 foot. That engine made 329 HP and 350 TQ through the stock trans, converter and 10 bolt with 3.23 so you know it lost HP when I added the TH400, heavy duty drive shaft and 9 inch rear end. I never had it on the dyno after making those changes. But the car ran 7.50's to low 7.60's all the time so I was very happy after going 8.20’s with the stock stuff.

I shared the above info to say this when I put the new engine in I never changed anything to the rest of the power train. I did drop the weight down to 3,380 +/- at the same time and the first trip out to the 1/4 mile it went 11.40's at Thunder Valley in Bristol, TN in July at the pinks event! I then went from 3.70 gears to 4.11 gears and removed the exhaust and went to Bowling Green during the fall that same year and the car went 10.80's with no other changes. As you know the car has gone a best of 10.53 NA with fuel pump upgrade, injector upgrade and minor tuning adjustments and 9.98 on a 125 shot of Nitrous. The gradual decrease in ET and increase in MPH has been the small changes and me learning how to drive it better!!

The most interesting part about all this is with the stock engine with headers and a lid the car would go 1.50's 60 foot times with the engine change, weight reduction and gear change from 3.70 to 4.11 it usually goes low 1.40's and has done a best of 1.39 60 foot NA and 1.31 60 on the 125 shot of nitrous! The car put down 400 RWHP on a mustang dyno as it sits now with heads, cam, intake and injectors! The reason we took it to the dyno at all was to dail in the injectors which was the last change I made winter before last.

I sure hope this helps!

N2

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

N2, thanks for the reply. If I remember right you have always ran your car on motor but just recently you sprayed it to hit 9s? So with that being said I assume your converter was built for a NA car, hence the killer 1.39 60ft on motor and the small .08 drop on the gas. (which is still awesome, dont' mistake my point) When Greg at FTI built my converter he did a full build sheet, from cam, gear, tire, rwhp, future goals of nitrous from 150-300 so I truly believe that until I spray the car I won't know if the converter is on point or not. If it hits like I think it will on the gas I will be happy with a high 1.5 60ft on motor, if it doesn't hit like it should on the gas then it will probably be time for a converter swap.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Spray that damn thing and get it over with. Nitrous makes it's own air.. weather isn't gonna kill the car... get it done!

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Amen!

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

QUOTE=Carter01;13641763]N2, thanks for the reply. If I remember right you have always ran your car on motor but just recently you sprayed it to hit 9s? So with that being said I assume your converter was built for a NA car, hence the killer 1.39 60ft on motor and the small .08 drop on the gas. (which is still awesome, dont' mistake my point) When Greg at FTI built my converter he did a full build sheet, from cam, gear, tire, rwhp, future goals of nitrous from 150-300 so I truly believe that until I spray the car I won't know if the converter is on point or not. If it hits like I think it will on the gas I will be happy with a high 1.5 60ft on motor, if it doesn't hit like it should on the gas then it will probably be time for a converter swap.[/QUOTE]


Carter,

Your car will put down a solid 1.5 in the fall for sure!


Actually ATI did the same thing for me as well. I remember filling out all the details for them to design & build my converter. But that was when I had the stock engine. I told them that I planned to run a 100 shot of nitrous! I ran several bottles through the stock engine and once I finally got the car sorted out with the engine change and learned how to drive it and upgraded the fuel system I started spraying it using a 75 shot of nitrous.

Then I finally got to try the 125 shot of nitrous man it was fun! The day I ran my 9.98 at 132.92 MPH with the 1.312 60 foot on the 125 shot of dry nitrous the NA run just before putting the bottle in the car was 1.442 60 foot 10.62 at 126.19 MPH. The DA hung around +1,200 to +1,500 all day. Maybe FTI built your converter to work with the 300 shot of nitrous causing it to be tighter NA whereas ATI built my converter to perform NA with only a 125 shot of nitrous giving me over 6 tenths of ET and almost 7 MPH's more in the quarter so I could have just a little more fun.

However, I was actually talking about the way my car ran with the stock engine that would have only produced somewhere around 300 HP +/- on a dyno jet. I really wonder if your car is putting down 384 HP on the dyno? I went back and pulled two time slips from stock engine runs.

Your run on the 18th was
pass 2
60ft 1.62
1/8 7.59
1/4 11.94 @ 114 (hooked good but jumped to the left, fixed it by adding one click compression to right rear shock)

Mine was with stock engine 92K mile on it the valve covers had never been taken off, headers, lid and LS1 intake and a better DA.

1.579 60 foot, 1/8 mile ET 7.64, ¼ mile ET 12.10 at 109.94 MPH
1.56 60 foot, 1/8 mile ET 7.62, ¼ mile ET 12.08 at 109.73 MPH

You can see your car is putting down more HP then my stock engine was but is it 384 HP and is that why it is running the way it is?

Please do not get me wrong your car is running good for the time of year we are talking about and I am sure it is going to run great on nitrous and I agree a converter can make a big difference and if it goes from 1.60’s to 1.30’s in the 60 foot that is going to be a big help in reduced ET! If I can go from 10.62 to 9.98 with a reduction in the 60 foot time of .13’s, I can assure you it is going to be fun when you hit it with the nitrous all the way down the track!!

Good luck I hope it all comes around! When it cools down I am coming down to SGMP to race with you all and see what a 150 shot will get me with some negative DA's.

N2

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

+1 on the negative DAs, if all goes well this week I am going to spray it this sat night if I can get off work in time. Its been a long journey these past few weeks trying to get everything lined up so hopefully everything will come together. I know for some high 10s is not that big of a deal but for me right now it is my next step to get where I want to be, got to baby steps you know!

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

Like I said above, don't worry about the 60' on the motor - mine went 11.1's to 11.2's on motor with 1.62 to 1.64 60' times and then on a 250 shot, mid 9's with a 1.30 to 1.32 60'. Nitrous convertors don't like to be without their jug of torque multiplier

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

JUG it and she will fly.

Greg

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

exactly- I really don't care what it will do N/A. Man do I want my car finished.