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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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Default Look at this cage....

It doesnt get higher.....or more invisable then this. Its hard to see, but the main hoop is basically above the lower roof. The head liner goes back in, but then you wouldnt see anything. The a pillar gauges went back in even. The T tops still go on and off, with more head room then it had stock with the the stock t top even. The bar is about 1/2 inch higher then the oem t top.
The main hoop doesnt get much wider either, as it goes inside the sides....
Its all 1 3/4 .134.....and can be driven on the street without fear, well more fear anyways, like most cages that make street driving more dangerous. Some small things are still being finished up, but with the head liner, the visors and belts in its hard to actually see at all.
Attached Thumbnails Look at this cage....-1105-smaller.jpg   Look at this cage....-img_1106-smaller.jpg   Look at this cage....-img_1107-smaller.jpg  
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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wow, thats definetly tucked up in there tight.. Nice work.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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the cert guy will love that
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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why did you use 1 3/4 tube?
that is pretty cool though. i like it.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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6 points need to be 1 3/4 and thats how the plan started.....then it was changed to a full cage.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 01:40 AM
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Looks great!
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 05:28 AM
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Nicely done. Tucks very well. I bet it was a pain to weld it 360*
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 05:31 AM
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Looks nice! Do the t-tops still lock in or did they have to be modified to lock on?
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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you do it or a shop?

that is bad ***
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:25 PM
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Yes the T tops still go on, and off but the oem lock mechanism is gone. They mount another way, that is at least as secure as the lock.

I built it in my shop for zombiess red ss rear mount car. It seems to hook better now but we have no testing yet and its 113 degrees out

another picture..
Attached Thumbnails Look at this cage....-img_1103-smaller.jpg  
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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1320 Fabbed my cage and it's absolutely beautiful. As for welding around the tops, they dropped the cage through holes in the floor, then welded in the plates after the top welding was done. Pretty smart.

Here are all the pics that he took in one folder for you viewing pleasure. The cage isn't even noticeable when driving the car. Whats even slicker is the swing outs are removable and even when installed, they go through the door handles so they open and close with the door itself. Very very good fabrication.

http://www.injecttech.com/photos/rollcage/

Oddly enough, the car does hook a lot better and it's not just because it's down 50+ hp due to the heat. I guess it was flexing out of shape a lot more than we realized. Hopefully the new cage and the soon to be added short torque arm will allow me to get better 60's on marginal track prep. Best the car has ever done was a 1.47, it usually 1.6 60's due to no prep.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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so lets say you did this for me. or anyone else. once it was all done and put together. does the head liner go back? if so what of the pipes is still seen.

of coarse where the t-tops are when they are off
front bar by window?
back of car?
of coarse door bars.
and down the spot in back set by speakers but what else.

thanks. very interest this style. i need a cage. but dont want it to be easily seen. my cars sees street 90% of the year. just want it to be able to go 9s when i go to track.

PM me if you have more details.

thanks
D
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:40 PM
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sorry few more quesitons.

with you cutting all that out. will it make the car less strong to daily driving. what i mean is will bumps mess the car up? well not bumps, wind, lets say wind. with wind pressing on windshield at so like 80mph for 4 hours of interstate driving. will it take it just fine?

also. how would you do the doors on a TA? i dont have the holes in my stuff. i like the idea. just wondering what you would do.

thanks
D
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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man im in love!!!
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Big_Bird_WS6
sorry few more quesitons.

with you cutting all that out. will it make the car less strong to daily driving. what i mean is will bumps mess the car up? well not bumps, wind, lets say wind. with wind pressing on windshield at so like 80mph for 4 hours of interstate driving. will it take it just fine?

also. how would you do the doors on a TA? i dont have the holes in my stuff. i like the idea. just wondering what you would do.

thanks
D
The car is much stiffer than it ever was. The sheet metal that was removed was replaced with a stronger support (the roll cage). Parts of the cars sheet metal are even tacked to the cage itself.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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sweet action!!!

I was looking @ the mounts for the T-tops... have you considered some type of roll cage mount style bracket? kind of like those used to mount camera mounts and stuff? it looks like it would be quicker and easier to remove them.... even though the car in question probably doesnt have them removed much.

I'm gunna look into building mine like this for sure!!!
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Nice job, but as mentioned might get you some headaches when the tech guy looks for it.....

Derek
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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I was under the impression that you needed more bars if you cut into the unibody?
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Zombie,

got any t-top pictures
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1320
It doesnt get higher.....or more invisable then this.
Nice job.
I know this is an older post but.
Did you do the work yourself or did a shop do it?

Did you have to cut holes in the floor to get the welds in? Remove glass?
Thanks
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