i found some useful threads before but cant seem to get the answers im looking for again. search keeps showing anti roll bar installs so..

1) isn't there a way to install the main hoop below the floor pans for a stronger core?

2) how do i know where things are supposed to line up at considering the cage comes with no dimensions for measurements for proper placement..

3) what all has to be done in order to weld the plates on the flat area or do you just simply weld them when in place?

and more questions will arise im sure. but i have the 8 point..no swing outs..mild steel..bars go to flat area

 

As for question (3), you need to drop the gastank before you start welding because the tank sits right underneath I believe.

 

alright i'll check that out. hopefully i can get some more answers cause riding around with no interior is killing me

 

Im not familair with the product, but why in the world wouuldnt it go to the rear sub frame rails? Easy to get to, no removing the gas tank, and when you look in the rear view mirror, you see no bars.....clear vision.

Oh and since they are to the sub frame rails, well they are a weee bit more effective then welded to a piece off tin above the tank. Seems like the last place to weld a cage would be to the area I can cut with a cheap air nibbler.....versus the sub frame.

 

unless your sig is way out of date im not sure why you are putting a bar in the car to begin with?

 

dont forget.........to move the gas lines under the drivers feet area.behind the front wheel.

 

look at my photobucket account in the page 19 to 21 area. there are quite a few pictures.
http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ayz/?start=400

 

A good welder doesn't need to drop the tank.

 

alright i'll check that out..is there a way to put a blanket b/t the gas lines and the floor pan? or do they need to be disconnected and dropped? also if they must be disconnected..where is this done?

 

thanks for the help man. really appreciate it. so for the main bar..am i just trying to get it close to the hump which would be the front of the back seats? then the rest is jig notched so just line it up, mark it and tack? and i'm going to use your idea of plating up the side of the pan too..seems like it adds some strength.

 

I used magnets and the 2" wide green body masking tape to hold everything in place while I figured out where I wanted the bars to be mounted to the floor. Then I welded all the plates down.
I also had to take about 1/2" off the bars that go by your arms and the one behind the seat.

 

is there no designated place for the bars to go? cause i figured the main hoop should be in a certain place for the door panel clearance for the door bars

 

just put it in loose and make slight tweaks till it lines up the way you want. the main hoop should be just about even with the door opening. use a tape measure to verify what you think you see in terms of alignment and make sure both sides are equal. i'd tack the rear bars to the hoop first so you can lean it back and weld it the whole way round.

 

when i get the main hoop and rear bars in place i can tack that..then take it out of the car, correct? that way after i have everything else marked off i can take it out and get good 360* welds in that area..then paint..reinstall..and weld to plates then weld in door bars and paint. sound about right?

 

pretty much. i would personally leave it in the car though so you can continue to recheck fitment since it may distort some from the heat.

 

you will see the lines under that plastic pad,the pad you lift the car with

 

^^^^^^^ I'm pretty sure that pad says something like "do not jack", its only plastic, I wouldn't.

 

yes it could..........or the pads are for a lift