Racecraft Inc. complete front suspension ?
07-31-2010, 01:40 PM
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Racecraft Inc. complete front suspension ? For those of you with the Racecraft Inc. complete front suspension, what are your opinions? I have it installed now and seems to be a really nice setup my only quark would be there are zero instructions with this kit and no torque specs. I got it all together but if anyone has any recomended starting adjustments to anything like the lower A-arm spacers, bump steer spacers, upper and lower A-arm adjusments just to get it close until I get the car professionally aligned that would be great 
...I know I can figure it all out on my own but thought I would save some time if anyone out there has it now.
Edit: Well, I put it all together and made a few adjustments to get it close on my own, here is a few pics of the kit and the front after it's done. It pulls the front end in 1.5" per side as well.
...I know I can figure it all out on my own but thought I would save some time if anyone out there has it now.Edit: Well, I put it all together and made a few adjustments to get it close on my own, here is a few pics of the kit and the front after it's done. It pulls the front end in 1.5" per side as well.
Last edited by DanZ28; 08-08-2010 at 04:31 PM.
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08-01-2010, 09:54 PM
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Yes, thanks for the obvious, but nobody answers on the weekend . It's no big deal, just thought folks out there went through this already and I would have it easy 
but I think the cost of this puts it on a limited amount of cars. Keenan's is the one I'd really like to see pics of since Racecraft sponsors him...
. It's no big deal, just thought folks out there went through this already and I would have it easy but I think the cost of this puts it on a limited amount of cars. Keenan's is the one I'd really like to see pics of since Racecraft sponsors him...
08-02-2010, 10:58 AM
#12
I went with the burkhart setup, similar.... it took FOREVER for me to get the thing 1/2 aligned... it's still gonna have to go to the alignment shop for sure. Having no slots and just a hole makes the initial alignment a serious pita, but the fact that there's no slots for anything to shift in is fantastic, I'm 100% sure that once it's set, it will stay good for a LONG time that way.
As for where you want it set, I don't know, depends on the car, setup, speed, etc. I'm sure.
I put as much caster into mine as I could, tried to get the camber 0 with the front end in the air and the tires just touching, and got the toe as strait as I could in the same position. I was able to get the toe pretty good there and about 1/2 way thru the travel, and it never toes out at all, only a little bit in at the top. This was done by shimming down the tie rods from the spindle with the supplied spacers from burkhart.
Again.. it needs to get done by a pro, I did the best I could with a tape measure, a couple clamps, straitedge and an angle finder.
As for where you want it set, I don't know, depends on the car, setup, speed, etc. I'm sure.
I put as much caster into mine as I could, tried to get the camber 0 with the front end in the air and the tires just touching, and got the toe as strait as I could in the same position. I was able to get the toe pretty good there and about 1/2 way thru the travel, and it never toes out at all, only a little bit in at the top. This was done by shimming down the tie rods from the spindle with the supplied spacers from burkhart.
Again.. it needs to get done by a pro, I did the best I could with a tape measure, a couple clamps, straitedge and an angle finder.
08-04-2010, 03:45 PM
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first get the arms of the rack in line with the lower control arms. take a piece of string from the bolt on the k-member and string it to the bolt at the spindle. put spacers on the rack's arm till its as close as possible to the angle of the control arm. this will get you started and if you get it dead on will make bumpsteer less than 3/16.
if your k-member is slotted for adjustment afte you get everything set i advise you to put a small tack weld on the washers and k-member to prevent movement after a wheelie or just regular use. use nyloc nuts every where and get them tight.
if your k-member is slotted for adjustment afte you get everything set i advise you to put a small tack weld on the washers and k-member to prevent movement after a wheelie or just regular use. use nyloc nuts every where and get them tight.
08-04-2010, 03:46 PM
#16
No problem. I probably spent 6 to 8 hours trying to get mine as close to where I wanted it. It's still not perfect... but it's at least in the right ballpark for the guy that will have to align it. No way did I want to have to pay someone the time it would take to do it all from scratch, that would be big time $$
Now, they only have a little work to do, probably an hour, maybe 2 I'd guess at most.
Now, they only have a little work to do, probably an hour, maybe 2 I'd guess at most.
08-04-2010, 08:40 PM
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first get the arms of the rack in line with the lower control arms. take a piece of string from the bolt on the k-member and string it to the bolt at the spindle. put spacers on the rack's arm till its as close as possible to the angle of the control arm. this will get you started and if you get it dead on will make bumpsteer less than 3/16.
if your k-member is slotted for adjustment afte you get everything set i advise you to put a small tack weld on the washers and k-member to prevent movement after a wheelie or just regular use. use nyloc nuts every where and get them tight.
if your k-member is slotted for adjustment afte you get everything set i advise you to put a small tack weld on the washers and k-member to prevent movement after a wheelie or just regular use. use nyloc nuts every where and get them tight.
No problem. I probably spent 6 to 8 hours trying to get mine as close to where I wanted it. It's still not perfect... but it's at least in the right ballpark for the guy that will have to align it. No way did I want to have to pay someone the time it would take to do it all from scratch, that would be big time $$
Now, they only have a little work to do, probably an hour, maybe 2 I'd guess at most.
Now, they only have a little work to do, probably an hour, maybe 2 I'd guess at most.
I called racecraft today, they gave me the spacing to put the lower a-arm in the stock location which is where I actually have it now, but I know it won't stay like that. Now I need to make a new steering shaft as well, I think I will mount a bushing on the frame to pull it out of the way and use 3 joints on it. You know anyone that has completely cut their stock cowling out and made a new one ? I'm thinking I will get this done, it would be nice and clean and shave some weight too.
08-05-2010, 04:39 AM
#18
Madman did it on a car... I'm going to do it on mine. Well, leave the corners, but in the middle, it's gonna go strait up from the main firewall. motor/tranny in and out as one assembly, that is my goal. Along with no upper radiator support... well there will be, but the radiator will be stuffed in the bumper cover so where the factory one is, there won't be anything in the way, first thing in the way will be the bumper cover.
That's what I'm doing.... I'll get pic's up once it's done, and some from the in process, should be this winter.
That's what I'm doing.... I'll get pic's up once it's done, and some from the in process, should be this winter.
08-05-2010, 01:41 PM
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I'm cutting my whole cowl completely off then making a new one to support the windshield. The radiator support will be removeable, but there will be some form of one there. I have changed my mind on the radiator, I'm not doing one now, I'm putting a tank in the back and pump it just like you do for an A2W intercooler. I would also like to do a removable front end, that would be pimp...With a mid plate, I dont think motor and tranny can come out together for me...
08-05-2010, 04:41 PM
#20
It can with a mid plate, just have to have the plate done right.
I was thinking about the tank in the back and a pump, but I can't find alot of people that have taken that route.
a 8 gallon tank might be lighter then the radiator, plus it would be in the back, and you could easily drain/fill between rounds, etc. That's a good idea, I should explore that some
I was thinking about the tank in the back and a pump, but I can't find alot of people that have taken that route.
a 8 gallon tank might be lighter then the radiator, plus it would be in the back, and you could easily drain/fill between rounds, etc. That's a good idea, I should explore that some